Author |
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Mikej
| Posted on Friday, December 10, 2004 - 08:33 am: |
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I regretted not making it up to Calgary on my trip a few years ago, I really regret it now. Thank you for sharing. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 01:24 am: |
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Been digging but haven't found an answer in the vault, probably just haven't found it yet. My quandary is this: I want to remove the swingarm brace from my m2 to polish it. Do I need to remove the bike's weight from the swingarm to do this or is it (the swingarm) sufficiently secured that I can just undo bolts and remove? I can't find my service manual but it's pretty likely the brace removal is listed in the same location as the swingarm removal, which would instruct one to unload the rear wheel. Thanks. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 12:26 pm: |
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No problem, just pull it. Just don't ride with out it in place. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 02:28 pm: |
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Too cold for riding, inversion - foggy and slippery - That's why I'm taking parts off. Thanks!!! |
99x1
| Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 07:11 pm: |
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Learned something while replacing my stator: The torque wrench kit I borrowed from work had 4 wrenches in a case covering from a couple of inch/lbs to 250 lb/ft. I was told not to use a wrench outside of 25% to 75% of it's range - so I went to a smaller torque wrench after the crankshaft (right-hand thread) at 210 ft-lbs. The clutch nut (left hand thread) didn't click at what felt like 80 ft/lbs, so I pressed down on it with my foot (to what I guessed would be ~80 ft/lbs). I guessed low - the torque wrench's head snapped clean off! Apparently, Sturtevant-Richmont wrenches only read torque on right-hand threads: "The wrench will not indicate torque but can be used in the reverse direction, provided you do not exceed the rated capacity of the wrench" Fortunately, I can see into the future: I predict that I will break a wrench on a work related job on Monday.... |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 08:46 pm: |
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Doh! I used that same method to calculate torque for that nut, but used a breaker bar. About 200 pounds standing on the wrench 1 foot out would be 200 foot pounds. I just stood on the thing about 10 inches out. |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 11:51 pm: |
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So...when did a foot become 10 inches? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2005 - 08:51 am: |
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When the torque spec calls for 180 foot pounds, and I weigh over 200. If I stood the full foot out, it would have been overtorqued. Sorry, I should have been clearer. Take your weight (say 200 lb... I wish). Take the torque spec pounds, divide it by your weight in pounds, and then multiply that by a 12 inches, and stand about there. (Message edited by reepicheep on February 27, 2005) |
Court
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2005 - 09:55 am: |
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Bill: THANKS!.....I love this place.....perfect timing! Court (off to find 4 friends and a 30' cheater bar |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2005 - 11:43 pm: |
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Reep; Just pullin' your chain....... LOL!!!!!!! Seriously, I have seen IN PRINT in a WWII-vintage aircraft maintenance manual, regarding a particular propshaft nut torque spec..."a 180 lb. man standing on the end of a four-foot bar..." Yet we won the war. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 07:02 pm: |
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Very cool. That kind of enginuity is exactly how we won the war... |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 10:55 pm: |
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Exactly! |
Kinger
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2005 - 11:53 am: |
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Anyone have any expierence with the Condor locking wheel chock? I have heard the praises of the Baxley and like the idea a lot. The Condor is quite a bit less money. I would definately spend the extra cash for the safety of my bike if the Baxley is that much better. Thanks |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2005 - 10:53 am: |
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Learned a tip yesterday - when replacing spark plugs, put red loctite on the threaded nut on top of the spark plug. The rear spark plug's nut loosened up into the spark plug cap - bike would idle and run, but wouldn't accelerate (essentially dual spark plug gaps?). After a while of riding, it would start missing on both cylinders - the O2 sensor is only on the rear, so it must have thought the mixture was off. I seem to remember seeing a spark plug that had a top connection nut that was fixed and wouldn't thread off? |
Sparky
| Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2005 - 08:12 pm: |
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Since loctite can be an insulator, it might be better to lightly mash the top threads of the spark plug with pliers so that the aluminum tip essentially becomes locked to the spark plug. Of course don't mangle the threads so much that you can't thread the tip all the way on! Just enough so that it takes the twisting force of a pair of pliers to screw the tip on. Sparky |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Monday, July 04, 2005 - 10:43 am: |
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Red Loctite can also "run" if heated up before fully cured. This could lead to other problems. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 10:20 pm: |
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Odd question here... While coming home from work, I was in the left turn lane making a hard left. There was a long wet streak on the road, like a pick up truck would leave when it accelerates hard and dumps a puddle of water from the bed onto the street. I am pretty paranoid, so I kept the bike upright while I went through it making my left, mainly leaning my body. Sure enough, it was a huge oil slick, and the bike was squirming all over the place. It turned out fine, I did not dump it. But then what? I hated to leave it there for the next poor motorcyclist, but on the other hand I don't run around packing 30lb bags of kitty litter on the XB9SX. This was a city street, so no handy sand or anything. Any suggestions? I am thinking I ought to add a big piece of chalk to my riding jacket, and keep it there, so if something like this happens again I can turn around, and label the hazard and give fellow riders a heads up. Any other ideas? |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 11:22 pm: |
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Yes; call 311 if your city has this option. If not, call the highway dept. or police dept. and report it ASAP. It's a lot easier for them to send a cleanup squad rather than an ambulance; especially if it's been reported. To ignore it at that point would be "negligence" in any court of law. |
Mikej
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2005 - 08:04 am: |
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Yep, just dial 911 and state it is a non-immediate emergency, or call the local dispatch direct number, or the city/county/state road department. I've done this a few times over the years. |
Jlnance
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2005 - 08:41 am: |
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Take your weight (say 200 lb... I wish). Take the torque spec pounds, divide it by your weight in pounds, and then multiply that by a 12 inches, and stand about there. And try not to bounce on the wrench. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 01:32 am: |
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Anybody else use hairspray to put new handgrips on? Use one with alcohol on it, lubes the grips on and dries up as a mild adhesive. Just thought of it, did this in a bicycle shop I worked at... |
Spike
| Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 09:26 pm: |
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I've done hairspray on bicycles, never tried it on motorcycles. I've also had really good luck with WD40 for bicycle grips. It sounds crazy, but if you use just the right amount (very little) the grip will slide right on and sticks as hard as hairspray. That being said, I'd be hesitant to try either on a motorcycle. For my motorcycle I've always used grip glue. |
Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, August 02, 2005 - 12:47 pm: |
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just remembered a tip while reading a request for assistance, figured I'd throw it in here, in case someone else may be able to use it removing calipers from Tubers can be a stress-inducing activity -- once you've got the thing off (no need to disconnect the line), take the courses file you can find, and break the edges from the caliper where it hangs up on the wheel the offending places are easily seen when trying to refit the thing, and you don't need to remove much material (round 1/32" or so helps a lot), so you onw't be affecting the strength of the caliper, which would be contra-indicated, I believe also, there a place on the wheel rotation that makes removal/installation MUCH easier -- varies from wheel to wheel, but generally, it's in line with the "spokes" on the disk carrier hope this helps |
Jandj_davis
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2005 - 12:33 pm: |
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I am wondering if there is anyplace online to view parts diagrams for Buells. There is BikeBandit.com and PartsFish.com for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Ducati. I know that a manual can be purchased from Buell that contains all of the parts diagrams, but hell, I'm cheap. Thanks folks. Josh Davis |
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