| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
My garage is not heated and is quite cold this time of year  On top of that, the concrete floor seems to be syphoning moisture up. So I've noticed some of my tools are starting to get the occasional rust spot  Any recommendations for a spray, oil, coating etc. that will effectively prevent rust in those conditions? Thanks Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Henrik I've the same issue in the Entropy Lab -- see the following link http://www.boeshield.com/ while WD-40 (or 50 wt for theat matter) will also do the trick, they will run off the part/tool, and make it icky to pick up -- this stuff dries just a teeny pit tacky, and can be easily removed when necessry -- some of the snooty gentleman woodworking stores carry it, as do some seious inductrial supply joints -- however, for the car-less, e-ordering may just be the ticket this is great stuff, btw for more info on other products, ask a deep water sailor (Capn Pete comes to mind) -- I'm sure they have their own solutions to this thorny problem | ||
| Blake |
No, no, no... This is of course the perfect opportunity to enhance your entire garage "experience." And who the heck do you think you are fooling anyway? We all should know by now that you are rarely inclined to merely treat such a symptom, but will be inevitably, irresistibly compelled to attack the root cause through a well planned strategy, overwhelming tactical force and the latest in high tech resources. To that end, I'll politely dodge your feigned and inevitably unsuccessful attempt to defy your own nature and offer the following: 1. Is the moisture truly "siphoning" through the floor as it appears, or is it actually condensation? 2. If the source of the moisture indeed is from siphoning/seepage, a good quality epoxy floor finish should solve that problem. I'm skeptical however that siphoning/seepage through the floor is the source of the moisture. 3. If condensation is the issue, consider using a small timer and thermostatically controlled radiant heater(s) to elevate room temperature just that slight bit, just enough to prevent formation of condensation due to daily temperature fluctuations and high relative humidity. And of course, if you need anything torn apart, let Paul R. and I know. | ||
| Pammy |
www.concretesealerpro.com | ||
| Rocketman |
If your tool(s) is/are going rusty you ain't using it/them often enough! Rocket | ||
| Pammy |
They make packets to put in drawers to combat moisture. Like the stuff they put in vitamin and medicine bottles, only bigger. http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID2025592P4191560-Kalt-Moisture-Dry.aspx | ||
| Henrik |
Bomber; thanks. The Boeshield looks interesting. More searching got me links recommending the T9 for boating and such. And you maritime comment reminded me, that (I think) have a conversation with Capt. Pete about some such substance. I'll research. Blake; it is indeed seepage/syphoning. Every time it's been raining I see dark spots seeping up in the floor, concentrated around some cracks. While I'd love to get into a full-on garage build project, it'll have to wait awhile still. Now Pammy's link is very interesting. Thanks Pammy. I guess it should be obvious from the site, but will this stuff really work on a damp floor? If so, that'd be a great way to prep the floor for painting. I seem to remember that dampness will make floor paint peel. Rocket; absolutely right you are. I'm handling tools every day, and have been for 2 years - they'd be carpentry tools however. My wrenching tools don't see much action these days. This winter hopefully. Thanks guys. I'll keep searching for a good corrosion blocker - and I think this one be what Capt. Pete and I were talking about: http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm and keep you posted on my findings. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Industrial machine components are protected with stuff called PDP-11. Can't find it on the new though. It is better than the Cosmoline type sticky coatings. There's a good selection of corrosion inhibiting products at www.mcmaster.com. Type in "corrosion inhibitor" in the search field and spend an hour looking at it all. | ||
| Blake |
Direct link page, but you'll need to go to the main McMaster.com page to order. | ||
| Pammy |
Henrik, it deep seals for moisture coming from underneath...A poor vapor barrior will certainly let moisture seep in from below. And then there is a top seal to seal the top from stains from above. I would deep seal then stain(there are some excellent concrete stain colors...then top seal. It doesn't leave a gloss..but less hazard for a slip and fall. Oh and I imagine some simple furniture polish would help with the rusty tools. You can also saturate a cloth with furniture polish/wax and lay it on top of your tools in the drawer and it should help ward off rust. You could try it...it's cheap. There are also dehumidifiers available for large scale projects. Living in a swamp type environment here you learn little tricks.  | ||
| Henrik |
Living in a swamp type environment here you learn little trick I bet it does Thanks for the concrete info. The garage was built in 1945, so I seriously doubt they put in a vapor barrier. I'll cut and fix the cracks, and then do the seal, stain, top seal. Most likely a spring/summer job. Thanks again. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
H -- just as a data point, many of the flooring coatings require some etching of the concrete, creating a fairly noxious atmostphere in the garage, which can rust the heck outa yer tools in no time flat (don't ask) -- also, many of them require that everything be off the floor for a while to allow the coating to cure -- which means you either leave everythin in the alley (and wave good bye as it all grows legs) or do the floor in stages not tryin to talk you outa anything, just data is all Blake -- isn't PDP-11 an old HPO midi-computer? ;-} (Message edited by bomber on December 12, 2005) | ||
| Henrik |
John, good point about the amount of time the stuff takes to dry ... I'd need to camp out in the back yard for days. Maybe, if it doesn't take too long to dry, the deep seal - top seal, and then some fancy Race Deck type flooring ... I'd just need to win the lottery Thanks Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
H -- one more data point, then I'll hush up (on this topic) -- according to an aquaintance that's in the biz, the following test will let you know if the sealing/paiting/treating of your floor will be truely successful lay a piece of plastic about a foot square (or more) on the floor, and affix it there with duct tape -- leave for a night or three -- if there is condensation under the plastic, you're gonna have trouble, and homeric efforts are likely required (given the age of the structure, I'd be willing to bet that you, like me, will have moisture under the plastic) | ||
| Blake |
Bomber, PDP-11 a midi computer... I think so too; SMU had one way back when, along with a Harris and a VAX. I'm second guessing my memory, the protectant might have been called PDRP-11. I cannot find it anywhere on the web though. Unlike the Cosmoline variants, the stuff I am thinking about would leave a dry finish. Curious, if Henrik's garage has moisture seeping up through the concrete floor, how could condensation not appear on the underside of the taped-down plastic scenario you mention? Seems like a forgone conclusion, no? | ||
| Bomber |
Blake -- well, if it's strictly condensation, I believe the moisture would appear on the TOP of the plastic -- if, on the other hand, the moisture is wicking through the concrete (can I have an equation of the capilary action of set concrete, pleaseand thankyou {grin}), the moisture would appear UNDER the plastic or have I once again misinterpreted the wisdom of others (my specialty, btw ;-} ) | ||
| Blake |
Oh, gotcha. Had assumed that Henrik was confident in his conclusion about the source being from seepage. I for sure second the idea of performing that test to be sure. ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ok, I'm going to date myself here... The PDP-11/70 was a DEC mini computer. Mini in name only as it was about 3' across, 5 1/2 -6' high and about 15' long. That was without the disc drives. They looked like small washing machines that had removable media. The tape drives were manual load jobs. the printer was a dot matrix type. You actually had to boot strap load the buggers by setting a bunch of address switches on the front and then hit the load button. There wasn't even a crt console! You could head a small home with one..... | ||
| Henrik |
I'll test and report back. Thanks guys for all the help and advice. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Bluz -- I was writing manuals using one of those boxes -- seemed miraculous at the time -- | ||
| Raptorj |
As far as condensation and the effects of oxygen on all things iron-based, I find that a industrial-strength silicone spray (EX: 'heavy duty *6% silicone lubricant) works wonders. I have been using this strong silicone-based spray for years on my boat engine and tools for years. As far as tools though, a little bit of this goes a LONG way, too much of this spray will result in useless, slippery tools! | ||
| G4string |
LPS 3.........its comes in a spray can. Works pretty good! We use it in the Avaition biz as a corrosion inhibator | ||
| Henrik |
John; thanks for reviving this thread and thanks for the LSP 3 recommendation. I've tried out both the Boeshield T9 and the Corrosion Block in the last year. Quite frankly, I can't detect any performance difference between the two - anti-corrosion wise. However, the T9 is much more pleasant to work with, in that it seems to dry up quite a bit less slippery than the Corrosion Block. So for tools and such, I've gone to using T9 only. Another recommendation from MCN was Bullfrog corrosion prevention products. They have little "emitters" you can stick in toolbox drawers as well as various sprays. No personal experience, but I may get some emitters and a spray and try it out. Henrik | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I make sure my tools have a slight coating of assembly lube. It won't run off like the oil from normal use. If you don't want assembly lube on your hands consider letting a dealer do the work  | ||
| Bratigan |
I have had great success with camphor tablets. The camphor outgases a coating on the steel and it won't oxidize. I use the tablets in my tool box so that each drawer has a tablet in them. The camphor is available through import export companies out of China. I purchased them online. Just do a search for camphor and you should find it. BRatigan |
