| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Bomber: you mentioned wax rather than clearcoat - I like the idea - seems more "natural". What brand/kind of wax? Any particular rituals to adhere to? Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Hman Watco Danish oil works well (of course!). . . . follow the instructions on the can, remember that temperature and humidity will seriously effect the drying time . . . 2 or three light coats are best . . . . it's renewable, relatively hard wearing, and doesn't get all pissy if you leave a wet glass on it . . . . . lightly rubbing the final coat with very fine (like 0000) steel wool or bronze wool (better . . .doesn't leave as many metal splinters) with teh grain will give you a nice, matte/semigloss finish, that will look good almost no matter what you do to it (don't let Blake take it to Bonnie, though) . . .. .. Wax is fine for something that's got some sort of finish already, or for very dense tropical hardwoods (mahogony, and like that) . . . . I've used Butcher's wax on many knife handles with great success . . .. .slather it on, and then rub it down (vigorously) with an old flannel shirt, or t-shirt . . . . Renaissance wax is also great, same instructions, but much more expensive . . .I use it on, er, ehem, knife hand;les that my grandfather left me, really (ivory and the like), and to keep older knives (non-stainless blades) protected . . . . the advanteage ofver these finishes is that when they get damaged, by the neighborhood iceracers, for instance, they are easily renewed without stripping the old finish . . .they also allow ALL of the character of the wood to come through sorry to go on . . . . dunno what came over me . . .I'll sit back down now | ||
| Hans |
Henrik, I would prefer a couple of layers of thin clear boat lacquer. Grind slightly between layers (with the hand, with those handy tools where the grid is fixed on a flexible material formed like a brickstone) End with fine grinding. The first layer soaks the wood and the softest fibers are swollen more than the hardest. This asks the most fine grinding till flat. Second layer does the same but the softest fibers are already partly impregnated and swell less. After the third or fourth layer you can finish it by fine grinding. You are looking directly on the now impregnated wood, which has now its natural color and a mattish gloss. The surface is water and oil resistant wood now. You can repeat the process partly if necessary on the long run. If it is too matt: You can even use boat wax or car "wax" or whatever: "Pledge" for instance. It can be wet cleaned even with a mild detergent. Hans | ||
| Bomber |
Henrik . . . .confused yet? or have you just decided to get a big hunk of diamond plate aluminum and cover the table top with that? ;-} | ||
| Henrik |
Hmmm, Diamond Plate ... I haven't had time to look into the oil/wax/lacquer yet. And a friend of mine just "invited me" over  to help him gut the kitchen in an old "fixer-upper" he owns - so I'll be busy over the weekend. I'll keep you posted. Henrik | ||
| Javahed |
Ooh ooh -- look look look..... Click me Click yet again Sorry - tools of this quality make me touch myself  All this for just 10 large!!!!! Gawd I wish I was rich  Dan | ||
| Peter |
Dan, Think BIG. PPiA | ||
| Tricklidz |
O.K. I buy a ASB shock wrench for the recall shock on my 97 S3....BUT.....that shock blows up...so....I get the recalled, recall shock...AND...the $30 wrench doesn't fit. SO....does anyone know what size wrench (in inches) fits the new shock?? TIA Steve | ||
| Bomber |
Lids go to the local hardware store . . .. . buy a pipewrensh with smooth jaws and an angled head . . . . approx 15$ at home depot, and the jaws don't spread like the lovely aluminum wrenches tend to do when the shock lock nut get good and goobered up. | ||
| Totway |
The wrench for the new shock is 60mm/52mm, I made a cheap one from aluminum plate. What size(s) is the old one maybe I'll trade. I always need new junk for the tool (junk) box Tim | ||
| Smadd |
Sears has this fine shock adjusting tool(I've seen them elsewhere, but don't remember where). You will do your shock adjustments in a *fraction* of the time it takes with a "hard" wrench. The tool will not mar the shock (make sure the shock is clean first). I am adjusting my shock often (solo to double), and believe me, after you use this, you'll never use a "hard" wrench again on your shock. Buy the biggest one you can find as the smallest one will just stretch like a rubber band. And of course, you'll need a "hard" wrench (any adjustable will do) to knock the locknut loose.  Steve | ||
| Robbchap |
Hello,I recently took off my starter assembly so I could paint it. As I was tinkering around, the insides of the stater fell out. When I say the insides I mean the part with the bearings on both ends, magnets , and gears attached to it. The problem is that I can't hold back the brushes at the bottom of the assembly and at the same time put back in, the insides. Does anyone have experince with this, does any one know what I am taking about? | ||
| Robbchap |
Oh ya, one more qestion, does anyone know if the threads on the drive sproket are normal or reverse , I want to know which way to push because it not coming off easily, just so I don't snap anything. | ||
| Blake |
Robbchap, Two words... Service Manual. There is simply too much you can totally fubar without one. Heck, I can get my M2 all fubar'd even with one.  | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Henrik, I realize we haven't talked about this in several months but check this little puppy out. It's just a TIG and Stick welder (no MIG setup or high-freq setting for Aluminum) but it is SMALL. BTW, for a size relationship, that's a 9" torpedo level lying next to the machine.  Cheers, -JW:>  | ||
| Peter |
Jim, I've been looking at a similar range from Selco..   If you click on "News", then "New Products", the first three are small ones. The first two state "No limits of material and thickness: mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum." which to me infers that they can weld aluminium, but the third one (in the pictures here), doesn't, although it seems to have the most features of the three. Any clues as to whether they can or not? Pete | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pete asked: The first two state "No limits of material and thickness: mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum." which to me infers that they can weld aluminium, but the third one (in the pictures here), doesn't, although it seems to have the most features of the three. Any clues as to whether they can or not? Sure, For starters, I wasn’t able to download the PDF files from the site to get a little more technical information on each machine, so I’ll wing it. Plus we’re talking about Arc Welding and Heli-arc Welding (not oxyacetylene welding or anything else). And I don’t know a thing about welding up some heads if you port too much. The first two machines are able to weld aluminum because they are Arc Welding aluminum (SMAW i.e., Shielded Metal Arc Welding in case you don’t know). Arc Welding aluminum isn’t an easy process, has some unique protocols and the results are usually pretty poor. The electrode (rod) is heavily coated with flux (from the factory of course) and contains around 5% silicon. It welded with reversed polarity, with a real short arc and burns at least 3 times faster than welding carbon steel. You can hardly see the weld puddle, tons of smoke and you are hauling ass (speed wise). Plus there is material cleanup involved, using 5% nitric or 10% sulphuric acid to prevent corrosion of the aluminum. They don’t mention welding aluminum with the third machine because it doesn’t have AC capabilities. To Heli-arc (GTAW - Gas Tungsten Arc Welding or some call it TIG - Tungsten Inert Gas) aluminum you need a High Freq. AC machine (or a AC/DC High Freq. machine). From what I can tell the third machine is a TIG and MIG machine. It must have a small 2 lb. wire spool inside the welding machine. It has High Freq., but no AC. If you look at the picture you will see the extra piece of equipment underneath the welding machine. That’s the high-frequency arc starter and stabilizer unit and it has a solenoid valve in it too. You can weld aluminum with MIG (and the proper shield gas) but the wire spool usually mounts directly on the stinger because it’s pretty difficult for the rollers inside the machine to push the soft aluminum wire through a long feed cable (even 8 feet). BTW, 8 feet is considered to be a long feed cable no matter what kind of wire your pushing through it. Some welding machines offer a lift-arc, a scratch-arc or a foot amptro pedal. Some even allow you to control the amps right at the torch. All help you control or start the arc when you start. The foot controller allows YOU to control the arc amps completely from start to finish (sort'a like a rheostat). Some Arc Welders (notice I didn’t say MIG) have a polarity switch to switch between DCSP (DC Straight Polarity) and DCRP (DC Reverse Polarity). DCSP is usually used (but not always) for GTAW/TIG welding and DCRP is usually used (but not always) for SMAW (Arc Welding). Otherwise you can switch the lead and the ground around to get the proper polarity for whatever your welding. In other words if you plug your electrode holder (stinger i.e.) in the positive receptacle on the welding machine and the ground into the negative you'll have DCRP. Switch it around and you'll get DCSP. Hope I haven’t thoroughly confused you dude, just trying to answer your question. Before you purchase anything you need to figure out what you’re going to be welding the most and gear your machine to that. You won’t find a one home type-welding machine that will do it all, unless you have a shit-load of greenbacks and a 480-power supply. With the limited information I have, the Selco combination TIG/MIG (or TIG/MMA) machine sounds pretty slick to me. Plus don’t forget you can weld chrome-moly with the MIG machine too. If for whatever reason you must weld aluminum, I’d suggest only to TIG it. That means you need an AC/DC High Freq. Welding machine. Plus you have to know what you’re doing, use proper gas, how to shape your tungsten and the proper technique. Stepping the cup and hand feeding the wire takes practice and a shit load of coordination. Anyone can melt together to pieces of stainless once shown how, but it takes a ton of practice to use filler metal and achieve a consistent pattern. Cheers, -JW:> | ||
| Peter |
Jim, Thanks for the comprehensive reply! This is the one I'm probably going to buy. Lincoln Invertec V205-T AC/DC My boss pointed out the small Selco's so I was curious if they were able to do what I want instead. I need to be able to weld aluminium as that is what most of my projects consist of. Pete | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pete, I was wondering why you didn't consider a Lincoln or Miller welding machine, both execellent. I personally think that's an execellent welding machine! BTW it's an outstanding TIG welder. I almost bought this identical machine myself but due to its' low open circuit voltage and limited short circuit current it will not function well with Exx10 or all Exx18 electrodes. The side jobs that I often do require those electrodes (filler rod) the most. Meaning Fleetweld 6010 5P and 5P+ and the low hydrogen rods for chromium and molybdenum. Another advantage (for me anyway) was the 230 volt or 120 volt input power and it requires significantly less input power than a conventional machine. Anyway, if you get that puppy, you'll be more than happy with it. Sweet, -JW:> | ||
| Moderator |
Jim, I shrunk your picture a bit. It was huge!  | ||
| Henrik |
Jim: thanks for the picture and explanations. Kinda funny; I opened this window, and first thing I see is your comment to me, and a picture (top half) that looks like a 'still a Norwegian friend of mine had - then I scrolled down and saw the welder ... oh, well, I guess you'd have to be there That Miller welder looks great (model, # ?). When you say no High Frq setting for aluminum, does that mean no aluminum at all, or just not as pretty/delicate as it could be? Nice machine Peter mentioned as well - the price however is quite a bit beyond my needs Henrik (who's still quite confused by all the different options and nomenclature) | ||
| Henrik |
I got it: Maxstar 140, $1200 w/ TIG kit. No aluminum. It'd have to have AC TIG capability to weld aluminum - right? Henrik | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Henrik, My little Norwegian friend makes some pretty powerful alcohol. You asked: It'd have to have AC TIG capability to weld aluminum - right? Yes, if you wanted to TIG aluminum you need a AC/HF. Don't forget they make some pretty nice MIG machines that weld just about anything including aluminum, like the Lincoln SP-175 Plus for less than $1,000. BTW, out of curiosity, what sort of aluminum do you guys plan on (or foresee) welding? You and Pete should hit the Lincoln website and click on Ask the Experts. Tell them exactly what you're going to be welding and see what they suggest. I've used it many times over the years (even before they went on-line) and they've always been extremely helpful. Cheers, -JW:> | ||
| Henrik |
My little Norwegian friend makes some pretty powerful alcohol. Mine too Well, as should be evident, I'm just a hack, whereas Peter can actually make a weld that doesn't need to be buried deep somewhere But I'd mainly be welding up exhaust header brackets (stainless), struts/supports (mild steel) and bent/broken rearsets and foot levers (SV650 - milled aluminum, I'm guessing 6061). Henrik | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Henrik wrote: But I'd mainly be welding up exhaust header brackets (stainless), struts/supports (mild steel) and bent/broken rearsets and foot levers (SV650 - milled aluminum, I'm guessing 6061). Humm ... if that's all you'll be welding, I'd simply get something "like" the Maxstar 140. Throw away the aluminum rearsets and design them yourself out'some scrap SS. To bad you don't live closer, we throw away tons of electropolished SS tubing from 1/4" O.D. to 10" O.D everyday. I make stills with nothing but scrap material. S'later, -JW:> | ||
| Peter |
Well, as should be evident, I'm just a hack, whereas Peter can actually make a weld that doesn't need to be buried deep somewhere Hahaha... That's just because you haven't found my burial spot yet To bad you don't live closer, we throw away tons of electropolished SS tubing from 1/4" O.D. to 10" O.D everyday. I make stills with nothing but scrap material. Do you throw out S/S 1-3/4" mandrel bends per chance? I want to be able to weld just about anything that I choose at the time. However this; but due to its' low open circuit voltage and limited short circuit current it will not function well with Exx10 or all Exx18 electrodes. The side jobs that I often do require those electrodes (filler rod) the most. Meaning Fleetweld 6010 5P and 5P+ and the low hydrogen rods for chromium and molybdenum. got me a bit confused. Does that mean it will not be able to weld chrome-moly? Pete | ||
| Jrh |
Peter Did you see www.burnsstainless.com?They sell all kinds of pre-bent exhaust tubing. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pete, You won't have a problem welding anything with that particular welding machine. They make consumables (electrodes) for just about anything. They're alternative rods for those I mentioned too. The Fleetweld 5P and 5P+ (E-6010 i.e.) rods I mentioned in my pervious message alternate electrode would be E-6011. BTW, the (1) on the right designates the "type of coating" or flux on the rod. In this particular case it has an arc stabilizer added to it, which also allows it to be used with AC. Like I said in the original message the side jobs that I often do require these electrodes". As far as the 1 3/4" O.D tubing goes (or 1 3/4" pipe for that matter) isn't an industry standard in the piping community. Specification wise, we aren't allowed to manually or mandrel bend anything less than 5r (5 x nonimal tube) and in some cases 10r. Example 1/2" tube x 5, would be a 2 1/2" radius (5r i.e.). Instead would use the industry standard fittings. If we need a specific degreed fitting we simply make the fitting by cutting/degreeing it (36 deg fitting or 135 deg, for example). Hey, I'm bored! -JW:> | ||
| Bud |
JW, Any other tip’s on buying an tig welder ?? Like the torch, better off with an liquid cooled one. I heard from the guys at the local machine shop, “ after 15 min, you burn your hand’s with out the liquid cooling “ I do a lot off mig welding , really never had any problems with it Ps. Nice stuff to read , “the welding story “ Gr, bud | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Hey Bud, Dunno, it's hard to say. Everyone here wants to weld aluminum (not me, it's a pain in the ass). TIG welding anything over about 3/16" thick, takes a TON of amps. Most TIG capable welding machines that are 250amps or more are usually water-cooled units (or there’s an optional liquid cooling unit for them). Welding aluminum takes considerable more amps than anything else, especially if welding anything thick (around 3/8”). The more amps required for the project (or if you’re consistently welding without stopping) the hotter the TIG torch gets. If your torch is undersized (like an 80amp torch) and you’re welding with high amps, then it's going to get hot real quick. I’ve TIG welded on an air-cooled machine for hours at a time without it getting so hot I couldn’t hold it. Aluminum is a whole different story. The larger (industrial) type machines with 100% duty cycles, like we use at work, will weld all day with high amps, larger electrodes if Arc Welding, or larger tungsten if TIG welding. I've done quite a bit of continuous welding (meaning welding – no talking or bull-shitting with anyone) on 10 and 12-hour shifts, using SMAW and GTAW process, 100% x-ray, with 5/32" and 3/16" electrodes. This includes pipe anywhere from 120” in diameter (it’s a long way around that puppy) to main steam lines on a powerhouse with a wall thickness of 2 ½”. On the other hand, if you’re continuously Arc Welding (SMAW) with 250amp or larger stinger (electrode holder) the puppy does get hot. That's why we have a bucket of water next to us to drop the stinger in and cool it off. To finally answer your question … you can TIG weld with just about any DC machine. Throwing aluminum in the equation screws everything up. I prefer a Miller machine to all the others (just a personal thing). I’d never buy an off-brand welding machine. Depending on how much you’ll use it continually and your budget, I’d say a Maxstar 140, Econotig, or Syncrowave 180SD, plus it never hurts to have a Millermatic MIG machine just hanging around. MIG machines are outstanding, you can weld just about anything with them, they’re easy to weld with on most materials and they make you look like and think you’re a welder even if your not (no cut intended). With the right shielding gas you can minimize the splatter and with a little help you can make some pretty welds in no time. As long as someone is willing to maintain it properly, I’d suggest a MIG machine before purchasing anything else. Out'a here, -JW:> |
