| Author | Message | ||
     Rick Gautier (Rick) |
If you want to set the dynamic timing (engine running)on your Buell without getting oil all over everything, go to the dealer and ask for a "timing window." It's a three dollar piece of clear plastic that screws into the hole you look through to set the timing. | ||
| mikej (Mikej) |
Starting a thread to rebuild a toolkit thread. Hi, Okay, I'm still gathering tools and such for a road kit to take on the bike for longer trips. The CruzTools web site makes for a good shopping list. Will need a 36mm socket for the rear axle nut (I think), which is I think the same size as an old Volkswagon Beetle pulley bolt. Also have a set of metric and inch hex wrenches plus a variety of torx including the infamous #27. Looking for opinions on making up a tool roll, and am considering either nylon or canvas or cloth to sew one out of. I'm thinking I want it breathable and absorbable to keep the tools rust free and dry. Will include duct tape, safety/bailing wire (need to get safety wire pliers), electrical wire and connectors and black tape and a crimping tool. Also should have various sizes of hose clamps from oil line diameter up to muffler diameter. Spare parts will include spark plugs, fuses, the magical timing cup, rivets for the timing cover, a sheet of gasket material (with a knife or razor blade and a couple of various sizes of spent shells [.45,.38,.22]to cut the material with}). Please add in your carry list, and please keep the whining on another section. Trying to make this a good list to build from, which will hopefully apply to any type of bike one rides but primarily focused on Buells. Thank you. MikeJ. (typing with greasy fingers) | ||
| Darryl Salmon (Sparky) |
I've had good results carrying my tools in a Rev-Pak Tool Pack. It's a flat wrap type with straps featuring heavy duty Cordura nylon material with 1 large, 4 medium & 8 small pockets. The medium pocket is wide enough to fit Tat's ASB Showa shock wrench. The large pocket runs full length inside. The Tool Pack when folded fits into the rear most tool compartment of an S3 (under the seat latch) with the tools I carry: 5 wrenches from 8 to 14 mm, 7 allen wrenches from small to 1/4 inch, a Craftsman 1/4" drive ratchet wrench, 1/4" drive Torx T27 & #1 Phillips bits, 3/8" drive 5/8" & 11/16" deep spark plug sockets, a square 3/8" adapter, 2 spare spark plugs, a 20 amp fuse, ty-raps & a rag. This leaves room in the bottom part of the tool compartment for a CO2 tire inflator, 6 cartridges & a tubeless puncture repair kit. I keep these items stuffed in a couple old athletic socks turned inside out. The fuzzy material effectively keeps them snug and rattle free while preventing abrasion to the tool compartment. These are the tools I need to do on the road repairs like: remove the fairing on the S3 or the headlight ring on the S1 to change headlight bulbs, change spark plugs, fix a puncture, remove the gas tank, and adjust the clutch & throttle cables, mirrors, clutch & hand brake lever positions. I carry a small flat blade screwdriver in my jacket to adjust suspension damping and, thanks to Buell's "Carve Some Concrete" promotion, a nice small air pressure gauge on my key chain. Let's go ridin', Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Joe Marriott (Joem) |
I found a perfect cordura toolbag for $6.00 at a hiking shop. Lots of compartments to store odds & ends. Plus I carry a bunch of "loose parts" (connectors, wire, tape, muffler busings, etc etc) in a zip lock bag. And I still have room to spare... http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/index.htm#Misc | ||
| Craig B. Sneddon (Kerryx1) |
A trick I always have is a spare set of throttle and idle cables looped and wire tied to the frame under the seat. The only time I've broken one is when I didn't have the spares with me! Also, the next time you've got the throttle grip off, slide a length of 1/4" tubing (lubricated with WD-40) as far through the bar as you can. This way you've always got a siphon hose with you for a good samaritan to donate enough fuel to get you to a station. FWIW KerryX1&S3T | ||
| 00' X-1 Race Stripe, Neil S. (Ccryder) |
Hey Baldie, good to have ya back! And to think that those young whipper-snappers at Home Coming couldn't figure out what I had cable-tied to my clutch cable! I even had the ends with little plastic bags, since I had lubed it! I felt that with almost 20k miles, this trip to East Troy would do in my clutch cable. I could feel that litle tink, tink every so often of a strand or 2 letting go. After all that precaution it was my primary chain tensioner shoe that went South. Mental note: 15,000 miles install new tensioner shoe, it helps shifting and peace of mind. Did I tell you I traded Sparky for a 00' X-1 Race Stripe.  Soon the X-1 will be a X-3. All my goodies are in I just have to have the paint done. Later Neil | ||
| 00' X-1 Race Stripe, Neil S. (Ccryder) |
Hey Baldie, good to have ya back! And to think that those young whipper-snappers at Home Coming couldn't figure out what I had cable-tied to my clutch cable! I even had the ends with little plastic bags, since I had lubed it! I felt that with almost 20k miles, this trip to East Troy would do in my clutch cable. I could feel that litle tink, tink every so often of a strand or 2 letting go. After all that precaution it was my primary chain tensioner shoe that went South. Mental note: 15,000 miles install new tensioner shoe, it helps shifting and peace of mind. Did I tell you I traded Sparky for a 00' X-1 Race Stripe.  Soon the X-1 will be a X-3. All my goodies are in I just have to have the paint done. Later Neil | ||
| Gary_Uk |
Hi folks, does anyone know where the pictures of Rockets Red Top attery have been filed? | ||
| Rocketman |
Gazza : I wish I had a quid for every time I've posted a pic of the Red Top 20 (available from Demon Tweeks}  Rocket in England | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Broken Fairing on your S3? Check out José's FAQ on DCBRAG for pictures of the velcro fix and other interesting S3 topics. | ||
| Randyman |
All right guys, I can't be the only one. My spark plugs (NGK 10R12) and stock Buell 6R12s will not fit in a 5/8 spark plug socket. I have to use an 18mm to change the plug, however almost everything I have read suggests these are 5/8 plugs. I have several different spark plug (5/8) sockets, so I know it's not a jacked up socket. Are they all like this? Is it a motorcycle thing? Feeling all alone... RandyMan | ||
| Hans |
Randyman: NKG makes the same plugs with metric OR inch hexagonals. A Bosch plug needs an 11/16 inch socket. Hans | ||
| Jiml |
Randyman, Just buy Champions 809 (10R12). That way you can use your 5/8 and be done with it. Anyway Champion makes the plugs for HD. JMHO later jiml | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Randy, you probably don't need one; but there really is such a thing as an 18mm spark plug socket. High-end tool companies like Snap-on and Proto should carry it. | ||
| Hans |
Master Converter is a very small handy software tool for conversions. In a secund it tells you that 67 inch is 170 cm and that those wonder engine with the 160 HP and 103 cubic inches has 1687,867592 cc and that 50 miles per gallon is 4,704291667 liter/100 km. Shareware, 15 $$, full working demo uploadable from www.savard.com | ||
| Peter |
or click here for free...... PPiA | ||
| Bomber |
a stone-ax-simple tip, but pretty handy of you work aluminum . . . .. . when you're getting ready to file on darn-near anything, but especially aluminum or other fairly soft material, rub a peice of chalk over your file . . .same stuff your kid uses on the sidewalk, or you use to precision mark that aluminum stock you'll make into a framus . the chalk keeps the file teeth form loading up, making it much easier to remove the bits that get stuck . . . . . . . .also, if you're luck is like mine, you've draw-filed the work-piece until it shines, take one more swipe at it, and a bit of aluminum caught in the file teeth causes another 20 minutes of work . . . . .. . my favorite kinda tip . . .cheap and easy | ||
| Carbonx1 |
Has anyone had problems with their gas cap? You would normally turn the key; flip up the release and turn it to pull it out. When you turn the release deal is supposed to turn the whole plastic piece under the fuel cap. Unfortunately the plastic piece on mine has wallered out (it no longer stays in line with flip release on the top of the cap) I only have 2K mile on my X1. I was just wondering if any on else has had this problem. Is this just a fluke or should I look forward to this every 2K miles. urg... | ||
| Brentx1 |
Carbonx1, I had the same problem with my 99 X1. My dealer replaced the cap no questions asked. They told me that I was supposed to lubricate the O ring every year. Not doing so causes the plastic to stick. Causing the nut to turn inside the plastic stripping the plastic. | ||
| Randyman |
Just finished putting my took kit together, and it's ENORMOUS!!! 13 different allen wrenches and about 10 sizes of box ends? There has got to be a way of cutting down the size somehow. Are there some sizes of bolts or nuts that can be easily eliminated? Like if there's only 4 3mm allen bolts I could replace those bolts with a more popular size. I can't believe there's metric, standard AND torx bolts on this thing! Help! RandyMan | ||
| Randyman |
Forgot to add, it's a 2000 X1. RandyMan | ||
| Smokin84 |
Randyman... To make those Allen wrenches take less space, you might want to consider a gunsmithing screwdriver. It has a hollow handle that you can put Allen, screwdriver and torx bits in. They often have a piece that slips over it to make it a T-handle. I use one because the screwdriver bits fit better and lessen the chance of stripping the heads out. | ||
| Bomber |
Anti-vibration tip , , ,, after years of looking for a readily-available material to help insulate components from vibration . . . . I'll spare you the description of the 2.5 watt bulb going off over my head in the shop lastweekend, and mention one word. mouse pads. ok, 2 words . . . . . I cut some up for use on both the M2, and the old thumper I've got . .. . I'll let ya know how it works on the M2, but, so far, it has allowed a component last on the thumer for a couple of hundred miles, which is 190 more than it did before . . . . . . | ||
| Doc5339 |
Does anyone know what the deal is with those "10 second" aluminum oil coolers on EBAY; supposedly they slide ove the oil filter. Are they worth a crap, much less $30? | ||
| Doc5339 |
Bomber, I've been using adhesive weather-stripping (meant for RVs) on my M2; so far it's worked well. | ||
| Christopher |
Doc5339, check over on ATC they were talking about the slip on oil coolers this morning.... You can get one for $25 by contacting the guy directly.... info on ATC posted by "BOZMAN" | ||
| Bushmasta |
So do those slip on oil coolers work? Also, I have heard a lot about installing a drip can so oil doesn't end up in the air box. I have spoke with Juan about it. Can someone give directions and maybe even some pics of how it turned out and process? What is a Jaz catch can? I appreciate all your guys input. Jhbushmasta@aol.com | ||
| Li8ning |
Does anyone know where to get the tools for clutch removal? | ||
| Mikej |
Li8ning, If your talking about the clutch spring removal and compression tool, you should be able to get it from American Sportbike, SportTwin, Custom Chrome, Drag Specialties, and other sources. The first two are just a click away on the main page here. The clutch tool I bought is made by Motion Pro, p/n 08-137. But on the box is also a p/n DS-197026 and description of "DS P8K Clutch Removal Tool". Got it from my local Buell dealership. | ||
| Rocketman |
Bob Said & Done : Or you could take the complete clutch off the Buell (left hand thread on the centre nut and you'll have to move the crankshaft sprocket outwards a bit for chain clearance) and with a large Jubilee clip placed over the SPRING PLATE, put it between the jaws of a vice and squeeze gently. This will allow you to remove the circlip. Doddle. Rocket in England |
