| Author | Message | ||
     Jackbequick |
The non-screw type hose clamps used on Buells are called Oetiker clamps. I prefer them over the screw type as they are much less likely to leak or fail. The crimping tool for them can be hard to find. I found the versatile one that crimps on both the front and side on eBay recently. The tool can be from the front or side and can also be used for cutting off the clamps (the clamps can't be re-used). Very nicely made tool, made in Germany. You can get the clamps from your H-D/Buell dealer, they use two sizes that I know of, intended for 1/4" and 3/8" hose and marked 157 and 170. Jack | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Jack, I've always had a time cutting these clamps off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
If you don't have the right tool those clamps are useless. I just changed over to the screw type. | ||
| Sweatmark |
Same clamps are OE on Beemers... and they are notorious for leaking on pressure side of fuel injection line from in-tank fuel pump. I have replaced the crimp clamps on our 2002 BMW that was leaking badly, and expect to do same on our 2004 BMW when it starts weeping Premium.  Removing those crimp fuel clamps can be difficult. Too wimply to snip 'em with just blunt nose nips, I improvised a system using channel-loks and nips for mechanical advantage:  Replaced my Oetiker clamps with good quality fuel screw clamps sourced from neighbor who runs a German auto service shop... he wouldn't let us use NAPA store screw clamps on fine German machinery! So, has anybody had fuel line leak problems on Buells with the crimp clamps? My XB's old enough that maybe I should start sniffing for fuel. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Tony, For some reason I missed your question earlier, my apologies. When I cut the OE clamps off in the past I just cut them (across the pulled up area) with a pair of diagonal jaw wire cutters ("dikes"). And I always replaced the OE clamps with screw type clamps because I did not have the OE clamps or tool. Screw type clamps work but are more prone to leak, loosen, or fail (in comparison to the OE clamps) in my experience. Now that I have the right tool, I'll try the OE pincers, they say it can be used to cut the old clamps off. One of this winter's projects will be to replace all the ten year old tubing runs on my FXD. Those are not leaking but the hose it visibly aged. Jack | ||
| Jackbequick |
"Replaced my Oetiker clamps with good quality fuel screw clamps..." One source I found recently for top quality hose clamps is the West Marine (boating supplies) stores. They carry the Swedish made AWAB hose clamps that have heavier bands and use an embossed thread (instead of the open slots) for the tightening screw. They have a metric hex head/slotted clamping screw that is a snug fit (harder to turn) but is also much less inclined to loosen by accident. The AWAB clamps are all 316 SS and you only have to look at one to understand the difference in quality between those and the "good ones" from the NAPA stores. I used an AWAB 51-76mm (2"-3") clamp to make an oil filter safety for my M2, and have since put one on my FXD also. On those I cut a strip of 1/32" gasket material and contact cement it to the inside of the clamp to soften the bite of the clamp on the filter housings. For those not familiar with this, the filters on H-D/Buell engines have been know to vibrate loose occasionally. If you put a clamp around the filter body, it will contact the crankcase and keep the filter from turning. A glance at the clamp location during pre ride checks, will quickly spot a loosening filter (or hose clamp) by the change in location. Jack |
