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Nevco1
Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2003 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never tried it, but used to be a common practice to pack the bars with lead shot from shooters supply store. YMMV
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

need to know the biggest rear i can put on my 1998 s3t any help would be great. as for the bike lift mover call PAYNES CYCLE CENTER ROCK ISLAND 309 786 3605 MATT PAYNE has lifts from air lifts to jacks on wheels clamp front wheels or tie downs this is ATK motocross shop but can get about any thing. has lifts in shop to cool. bob
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Davefl
Posted on Tuesday, November 18, 2003 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you do not want to hurt the handling of the bike the biggest tire is the 170/60/17. I have seen 180s on the rear but there could be fender rubbing depending on what brand you use.
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Tuesday, November 18, 2003 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Dave fender rubbing can be take care of by removeing it. wore out tire in 4900 highway miles sad with no twistes involved. most miles are highway. any good tire company suggustions? for better tire life. bob
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Bvan
Posted on Wednesday, November 26, 2003 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've put an Avon 180 on my 1998 S3T. It handled great at first, but when the tire starts to wear the handling sucks
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Boatz
Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seeking other Bueller's experience with bike stands. I've been used to centerstands all my biking life on other brands.
What's available, which ones are recommended, or not? Thanks,
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Andrewb
Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's one way to do it. It's been consistently inexpensive to do. Well that's until it falls over.....

YMMV




edited by andrewb on May 19, 2004
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2bbuell
Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Boatz-
I got a center stand that is made for Buells from a dude in Texas- sorry, I forgot the Co. name, but you can find him if you do a net search for Buell stands.
It works great, it doesn't lift the front, but you can easily do so by hoisting it up a little at the forks or lifting and blocking it up at the steering head. And, the best thing is, it is easy for one to put the bike on it.
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5liter
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try here:

http://www.peglift.com/

I don't have one, but watch the video and see if it's for you.
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Djkaplan
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's the one I use, a DSE. I paid $99 for it at Earl Smalls in Marietta, Georgia.

http://www.americanthunderbike.org/productreviews/dse.php

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Valez
Posted on Thursday, May 27, 2004 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just mounted a set of Bridgestone BT014 on my S1 Lightning, and this time the company really done it. PERFECT TIRE!!!
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2004 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well!
Assembly is FINALLY complete on my lift.
Just need to tear it down and paint the bugger.

This one is based on one that was posted here a while back.
I made the bed longer and a couple of other minor modifications.
Nothing real complicated about the entire project.

I did however learn a couple of things.
1. Don't use hot rolled 3/4 steel bar for the jack point. It bends like a wet noodle with 600lb on the lift.
I had to use high tensile 3/4 instead, it barely flexes.
2. Don't use a cheap bottle jack. Notice the oil on the floor.
It's suprising how hard it is to find a decent 6 ton jack. Everything seems to be made in China these days.
I'm still looking for one with simular dimensions.

All in all, it works great and I'm very happy with the results.

I'll post another pic when it's painted. Or if anyone wants additional shots.

Unpainted lift with S2
(Hmm, should have washed the bird poop of before I took the picture, how embarrassing!)
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S2pengy
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2004 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice early S2!!!!!!
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Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2004 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quick update on the jack.
I pulled it apart and found the bottom reservoir gasket had crud on it.
A quick clean up and reassembly got rid of the leak.
I still need to put the safety arms in place before I paint.
All should be complete this weekend!
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Road_thing
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2004 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brad: Have you got a set of plans for that lift? I'm looking at a long rainy weekend...

r-t
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Loki
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2004 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brad,

I second RT's thought about a set of plans and some close-up pics

Loki
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Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2004 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have any plans really, just general guidlines from this thread that JohnC posted a while back.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=4062&post=153204#POST 153204

I started there and did minor mods to suit my needs.
I can take what ever pictures you want and when I get time get some dimensions and drawings put together.

Brad
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Knickers
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a tip on clutch replacement. I didn't learn this from my Buell, but after I replaced all the friction and steel plates in my Kaw I noticed that the clutch was dragging. The bike would try to ride off in 1st gear with the lever pulled in and was very hard to shift. I figured it just needed some break in and another adjustment. After several hundred miles it was not getting better. I opened it back up again and when I pulled the whole clutch pack out together it was clear what the problem was. Two warped plates were keeping just enough load on the pack to make it drag. When I first assebled the clutch I took a cursory look at each plate before I installed it, but unless you put it on a flat surface its hard to see a slight warp. The tip is to stack up the whole pack before you install anything and look for gaps that indicate a warped plate. Luckily I kept the old plates so I reused two of the steels, but it still cost me another $18 clutch cover gasket!
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Imsomnsexy777
Posted on Saturday, September 25, 2004 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a lightning XB12R and to tell you the truth i couldnt keep up with my buddys GSX-R 1000. Im new to the bike world so i dont know much about them. So my question is what can i do to my bike to make it a bit faster or maybe a lot faster. Now i know that your probably thinking that im stupid. You can say that im a little crazy but we are all going to die one day.I just need some help. THANK YOU.
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2004 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"...we are all going to die one day.I just need some help."
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2004 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Imsom... I'll answer politely on the off chance that this is not just a troll...

Ultimately, if your goal is to try and keep up with squids on straights, you bought the wrong bike. You can spend a lot of time and money to close some of the gap, but if your goal is top speed on a straight line bike, then you would be better served with a 1000cc or greater liter inline four as your starting point, probably a Busa or something. Save yourself a lot of grief, and sell the Buell.

I don't personally know many people that buy a bike and enjoy it for that purpose for long. It either gets old, they get nabbed and loose their license or become uninsurable, or they get themselves hurt. But it's your money, and none of my business.

You are riding at a good time. If top end straight line speed is important to you, there are a bunch of bikes that can do that *really* well.
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Bluelightning
Posted on Monday, September 27, 2004 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New topic....

Anyone know any tricks to get the clips in for adjustable push rod tubes??? I am trying to use the screw driver idea that I was told about (pushing down on the spring with the driver while pushing up on the clip until I can seat the clip) but this isn't working, I get close but not enough to get them in. These are from Zippers and supposed to be for stock heads and cylinders, do I need to trim some off of the clips or what?
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Hoser
Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2004 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reach a finger in behind the retaing collar ( the one with the spring inside of it ) , while you are using the screwdriver. The cylinder fins are not allowing the spring loaded collar to move down far enough , use your finger to knudge the collar , allowing the keeper to snap into position.
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Bluelightning
Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2004 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah, I'll have to give that a shot and see if it works. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!!
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Mikej


Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2004 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is it possible to add a Tool&Die thread to this section? The intent and rules would be as follows:

1. To promote and share ideas and techniques for home shop mechanics and machinists.

2. To share ideas on non-commercial part and tool fabrication and repairs.

3. Any requests to buy parts that others have made should be strictly done off-line, not on-line in the thread.

4. Ask how, not how much.

5. Professional shops are welcome to contribute to show how they set up their tools and jigs if done in the interest of helping others set up their own tools and jigs for work and repairs.

Fairly simple in intent if this is acceptable to all.

Excuse me now while I go back to my recovery from surgery. At least the offending organ didn't explode internally and was able to be surgically removed. The Gall of it all. I'd post links to how it was done, but the Tool&Die thread isn't active yet. ; )

Carry on.
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Reepicheep


Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2004 - 02:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good suggestion, I took a shot at it, with one minor revision to rule #3.

If you want to sell here, become a sponsor, or sell through a sponsor, a one month sponsorship is only currently about $100, and a 1 year sponsorship is $600.

Not chump change, but pretty cheap considering your targeted exposure... most manufacturers would *kill* for this kind of deal.

It is in the knowledge vault, called "Machine Shop".

(Message edited by reepicheep on December 08, 2004)
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Mikej


Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2004 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent, thank you.

For number3 I was thinking of the recent thread where Jeff/Hoser was trying to stay within bounds and people were asking how much, which I also did in another thread in the past when he was talking about some tools he's made. Excellent resource, lots of knowledge and skills, a willingness to share how it is done, and a fair skill with the camera to boot.

In any case I seek to learn.
Thanks again.
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Reepicheep


Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2004 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the current state of affairs we have reached is that if you are making the thing for just material costs, and disclosing everything about how to make it, you are squarely in the clear.

It starts to get muddy when people (fairly) need to recoup not just the cost of materials, but of their time, or of their $4000 machine tool required to make the part. Then we have no way to police it, nor evaluate it.

Where we have settled, is that if you are trying to recapture more then just raw materials and consumables, then you should just make a profit on it fair and square, and either buy a sponsorship ($100 per month, $600 per year I think), or sell it through an existing sponsor.

It's not perfect, but it is simple, understandable, and enforceable.
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Hoser


Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2004 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fella's :

Thank's for the kind words , I'm seriously thinking of becoming a sponsor , the time is not right though , going on seven week's since I've had a paycheck.

In keeping with the topic of this thread , and not wanting to attract the topic police , ..... um , YOU GUYS ARE THE TOPIC POLICE...................

Isolator / swingarm service replacement pics to share ..........................

Shop24

hoist1

BP5-1

BP5-2

BP5-4
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Reepicheep


Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2004 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

..... um , YOU GUYS ARE THE TOPIC POLICE...................




DOH! He's on to us!
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