Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Cam Timing Jetlee 36  2  01-05-12  11:06 am Archive through September 19, 2009 Gearheaderiko 30  1  09-19-09  10:17 pm Archive through April 11, 2009 Bandito90 30  1  04-11-09  02:02 am Archive through March 03, 2009 Crackhead 30  1  03-03-09  07:13 am Archive through March 24, 2008 Ezblast 30  1  03-24-08  10:48 am Archive through June 09, 2007 Xgecko 31  1  06-09-07  07:12 pm Archive through May 28, 2007 Gearheaderiko 30  1  05-28-07  02:27 am

Head mods for cam installation:
A note for cam installations:
Valve guide mod is easy - remove the seals, mark top of guide with a sharp pick or something to show how much needs to come off, use a drill bit that's larger than the guide O.D. and drill down to the mark (holding bit aligned with guide and steady so it doesn't jump around!), de-burr and round sharp edges w/ a dremel. Honing the guides would be a good idea, if you have the right size (dingleberry type hone). Re-install seals (you're supposed to use new ones - I didn't, and oil use has never been lower, go figure.

Another option - instead of cutting guides, just don't use the seals... might use oil, but who knows - you can always put them back on.

Retainer/seal clearance allows about .55" valve opening before interference, IIRC (see "replacement heads" thread to double-check!), so subtract that from your cam's advertised lift to get minimum required amount to be removed, then add a little extra (maybe .02") for good luck.

A machine shop (or a HEAD shop!) could do a much better job, probably pretty cheap too - but my setup is low-budget and intended to be temporary, so I just winged it...

060" is recommended.
Once again you've done a nice write up. I hadn't though of using a drill to just cut it away. Seems much easier than grinding!

Author Message   Bandito90 Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 11:19 pm:        I finally got the piston in after an hour or so.And Eric I did it on the bench like you.I quit on the bike for the night.It seems this thing is just giving me grief.Just awhile ago I was not even snugging one of the bolts on the rocker box and it didn't snap it just kinda twisted off with little pressure.I was doing this prior to torquing every thing.But I just quit for the night.Also I'll be doing a compression test soon as possible.   Ezblast Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 12:38 am:        My 515cc kit has done great,and will get a full inspection at tear down, just dropped motor. I bet I only need to replace the rings, since mine hasn't blown in 15000 miles, I expect shes good. Will be inspecting top end, and replacing lifters and rockerarms - with better of course - will be using the SS ratio rockers at 1.72, so will clearance the rocker cover a tad just to be safe, new gears - back-cut, Baker Shift-Drum kit, new shift-pawl, all new gaskets, pro-series gear, new umbrella-valve and o-ring/grommet, new clutch (- any recommendations here?), switch the rest of the lines to SS, put it all together and bolt into the XB chasis, then add the the rest and modify as needed - I think this combo, with my current intake and exhaust puts me at a nice power level, especially for working skills and in city dueling. The XBBlast should be a world of fun - Vader reborn. And Starkiller with its custom front end and rear shock, and modified motor is a hell of a modified Blast, that will get only better in time, for when the XBBlast is on the road, the 2000 Blast will then go under the knife, for a similar tear down and rebuild, but using a hi-comp piston and Total Seal rings, a head up grade to Stage 2, and a programmable ignition with the RPM set at 8000;0) - together when done, I'll have a nice small fleet - A Blast, A custom Buell, and 1125CR - riding is really getting interesting! - lol - Partial payment for this starts this week - dismantling the guest bath to install all new fixtures, furniture/cabinetry,etc - a new restroom at the end of the work, all the required items in a 1/4 of the space of my garage, freeing up space for the tire changer,balancer, and floor-press. Life goes on. EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 12:51 am:        Sounds like you have your hands full,EZ.I was looking at a used xb9 race bike and thought a single would be really good in it.Well I would like a bigger Buell,But finances say no.lol   Ezblast Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 04:02 pm:        It will, happen, be patient, I was looking at paying premium for a new nine and found an even better deal on a new CR. No need to mod a bike like that, and the dailly driver just keeps roaring along. Thinking about replacing that reverse-meg can with a 4" Supertrapp - to mellow the tune, though I'd probably loose a pony on the top. Fricking Force is loud though - lol EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 04:40 pm:        Who makes a decent pipe anymore?I have a Vance&Hines but read a thing or two about the power of them.I got the motor buttoned up and really just have to connect the motor mounts and put the pipe and carb on and the bodywork.I should be firing it in an hour.   Ezblast Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 05:07 pm:        Jardine, however, you have to use new front lower stock mounting hardware, cheap price altogether, and not the items they supply for the install. Blast hardware is made just for that purpose - lol - theirs will not hold up to the vibrations. EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 09:02 pm:        The good news is it starts the bad is it has 120 pounds of compression and immediately started making a screeching noise around the exhaust port?   Ezblast Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 11:04 pm:        Sounds like bad ring install. EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 11:17 pm:        I took my time gapping and assembling the rings.I did have trouble with the oil ring.Hoping the cylinder is ok?   Ezblast Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 11:32 pm:        Lets hope so. EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 11:41 pm:        I had plenty of assembly lube and it didn't initially make the noise.This bike is just getting frustrating.I pulled the top end off another bike I have to take measurements and confirm it was stroked.And no problems at all.   Ezblast Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 12:44 am:        Who sized the rings? EZ   Bandito90 Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 01:02 am:        I did using the the specs for the correct bore size off the nhrs assembly sheets.The rings were very tight.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 01:54 am:        Forgive my questions, but: Did you get a new cylinder/bore & hone? Are you using another 515? If you used the Nikasil specs for a non-Nikasil cylinder, its too tight. Piston clearance (from memory) is about 1.5 thousandths for the Nikasil cylinder and 3.5 for stock cylinder. I dont remember if the ring gaps were different for the two, but they probably were. I dont have the NHRS instructions (for the Nikasil cylinder). 120psi could be normal if the rings havent seated, but it shouldnt stay there for long. Screeching could be the piston/rings fit or it could be something else such as low/no oil pressure (if everything else is done right) or? As long as the two top rings went in okay, the oil rings probably wont be a problem being of much thinner material. They wouldnt last long in the bore. A compression test with oil in the cylinder is in order.   Bandito90 Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:52 am:        I used the stock cylinder bored and honed to the tolerances I got from cp.The two top rings went in fine.I'm going to do a compression test like you said today and also going to pull the cam cover just to make sure nothing went south down there.I just bought an overbore piston.So I'm sure it's not a Nikasil as there not able to be bored.   Bandito90 Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 03:57 pm:        I think I found the culprit.I put oil in the cylinder to do a compression test and oil came out at the gasket on the left side.I hoping this is all.I was skeptical on the torque specs in the manual.What are is everybody torquing them to?Also is there another head gasket besides the Cometic's that I can use and not have to deal with the O-rings?I know this is some of my problem.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 10:55 pm:        Rumor is that Buell did away with the O rings and the updated gasket is pt #16770-84F or pt #16770-84E. I dont have any way to verify this except whats shown in the parts manuals because I dont have an updated (2009-2010) Blast or XB repair manual. FWIW: I've never had a problem with the O rings and the assembly instructions you got with your pistons/515/gaskets kit from NHRS should tell you how to avoid leakage as well as a torque sequence that differs from the manual. Thats the sequence I use as I'm not a big fan of the "turn an additional 30 degrees after final torque" method on anything. I dont use anything on the O rings (when fitted). (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on September 21, 2009)   Gearheaderiko Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 10:58 pm:        Follow the torque sequence in the manual except use: Start at 15 ft lbs then go up 5's to 40ft lbs. Skip the additional 90 degree rotation.   Bandito90 Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 03:58 pm:        Thanks,Erik.I'm planning on working on the bike this weekend.I'll have more time then.   Bandito90 Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2009 - 04:42 pm:        Well I fired the bike up today!It runs but rough.Bogs out after idle.It just needs tuning and should be fine.I thank everybody that helped me out.   Prichmon Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2010 - 08:51 pm:        Are mods required for the XB cams? I can't seem to find the install on a blast... Can anyone help me out? Thanks guys... Rich   Gearheaderiko Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 12:58 am:        Yes. You'll need better springs and shorter valve guides- about the same as installing B70 cams. You'll probably also need to rework the timing cup (move the locater notch). Revolution performance will sell you a set of beehive valve springs that fit the stock Blast valves and should do the job. $65. If you want full potential out of the XB cabs you'll need to up the rev limit as full power hits about 6800rpm. All the info on installing XB cams is here on Badweb. I've written a bunch about it and have gained much from others writing. Unfortunately, its not a very common mod so it doesnt have its own comprehensive thread   Jetlee Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 12:09 pm:        It's really not all that difficult. I've done it as well, but used stock guides with no modification. I changed valve springs to Revolution Performance's beehive springs. Re-indexed the timing cup and used an Ultima Single-Fire ignition to play with my timing. Need to play with exhaust for a good header design for this cam.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 11:02 pm:        "used stock guides with no modification" That can put the clearance very close to zero or less. It definitely has to be checked before final assembly (which is easy to do).

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