| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
There isnt any reason to remove the cam seal. Unless you're completely brutal, if it didnt leak when you pulled the cover, it wont leak when you put it back on.Definitely not reusable if you pull the seal. Timing cover with screws is common Big Twin/Sportster item 1971-1999 (if I remember correctly)-2 holes. Use a gasket. Cam cover gasket is not reusable. They used to install shims in the cams for clearance, now the gasket does that job. You could reuse many gaskets if you want, or had too. Its a risk and you'll need the right sealers. | ||
| Bandito90 |
Ok,So I installed a 515 kit and b70 cams last summer.I double and triple checked everything.It ran,But seemed to shoot a major amount of oil out the intake into the airbox.From looking at an older post it seems that my intake valve could be stuck open.I'm pretty sure the cam is not a tooth off as when I was fitting them when it was off just one there was a major difference in the marks on the cams.Now the one is easy to get aligned as the dot is at the bottom of two teeth in the "v"the other is stamped a little off to the side of the "v".Am I off or is it just the way it was stamped?I took these with my phone so there not the greatest.I'm not sure what to do next.Help me out guys.Oh,An the TDC mark on the crank was in the middle of the sight hole when installed.    | ||
| Ezblast |
The oil is from running it at high rpms - I get that also. Make sure the pcv is seated squarely on the rocker and that the tube goes up first then down for drainage - so some of the oil will stay. If it was running right before then everything is/was fine. EZ | ||
| Bandito90 |
It ran well before I rebuilt it.Then it seemed to run fine and then it started to not run well.It only has about fifteen miles or so on the engine.I was still breaking it in.I did clearance the rocker cover,But still get a ticking kind of noise in the top of the head.Could it be a lifter problem?What about the timing marks.Do they look all right?I know it's hard to see in the cell phone pics. | ||
| Crackhead |
your timing marks look good. when i installed the pro series/ b50 i got a little bit of ticking like sound from the motor. With only 15 miles on the motor, i am betting the rings haven't sealed well yet. | ||
| Reuel |
Find yourself a place where you can go from 20 to 50 and back a bunch, alternating from WOT to ZeroT at each end in 2nd gear. About 20 times should do it. Make sure you're warmed up first. Gears are good. Do what Ed said. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Without hearing the engine...you've installed heavier valve springs for the high lift cam so they are going to make more noise. Its usually more of a clack though. Did you install the pushrods in the correct locations (one pushrod is longer)? Did you change lifters or install the new oil pump drive gear? Did you change anything else at the time of installation? By not running well, what exactly does that mean? Bogging, poor idle, knocking, no power, hesitation at higher rpms, Running poorly after warm up, etc. | ||
| Ezblast |
Erik's right - my head makes plenty of noise - for over 20,000 miles now - his question is good. EZ | ||
| Bandito90 |
Ok,Cool I was not sure. | ||
| Bandito90 |
This might be a stupid question,But how do I no if the breather is seated and do they go bad.Mine just sort of lays flat on the rocker cover.I lost my manual so I'm probably going to check the push rods again size again and am just going to go ahead and replace the lifters and probably the oil drive gear while it's apart.Is it possible that the rings did not seat properly.Also dumb question number two.Being I misplaced my manual.Which is the longer push rod.I'll probably download the pdf file if I can't find my manual. Thanks again guys. | ||
| Krjoseph |
I'm not sure about the PVC, I think it just fits in the grommet as afar down as you can get it. As for the push rods, the exhaust rod is just a wee bit longer. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - sometimes they clog, just make sure it is solidly seated, I wouldn't worry about oil usage yet - you have new valve guides, seals, and heavier springs right? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your original post indicates that it ran fine then started to run poorly (in what way we still dont know). Unseated rings wont do that unless you installed the rings incorrectly (they broke) or really fouled up the break-in. Follow the break-in procedure from the people who sold you the cylinder & piston. They should know the best way (and if you have a problem they will ask you how you broke it in). Break-in with dino oil unless the manufacturer tells you different. When you pull it apart (assuming you'll just pull the rocker cover, not the head) check the pushrods at TDC to see how they spin. That may give you a clue as to what, if anything, is going on. Check the timing cup for looseness also. PCV just slides into the grommet. Its probably fine, unless its leaking all over the valve cover. I'd recommend getting some good lifters such as Jims hydrosolids or Revolution Performance HydroRev lifters. That may entail getting adjustable pushrods too (they may fit as a simple stock replacement, but I dont know as I never went that route-call and ask). remembering though I am a little obsessive!~ Other questions: Did you re jet the carb (or whats it jetted at)? Did you get the high compression (10.5:1) piston? Are you using premium gas? Just trying to help. B70's and the 515 is a nice combo and should run great (but you should go easy on it until broken-in). | ||
| Bandito90 |
I got all my stuff from nrhs.I did have trouble with the cylinder that entailed sending it back to them.This being the piston would not fit into the cylinder.They sent it back with the piston in the bore.I know anybody can have a mistake.But am confident they assembled the rings correctly.I got it all back and got it started.I did the initial break in as there directions.And was about to begin the four hundred or so easy break in period.I had trouble with my car and had to take it to work.And it was running good.Then the oil started spraying in the air box.It did this on the way home and then it stalled a few times.I was not beating it or keeping the throttle at a certain point for any amount of time.I did many plug readings before all this and they all looked fine.I believe I have it jetted to 75/145 with the idle mixture screw out two and a half turns.I have to pull the float bowl off to be sure.Is it possible It leaned out and wore the cylinder?I have the 10.5.1 piston and was running premium gas.I know its hard to diagnose a bike without seeing or hearing it.Also I timed it by using the method in the manual without a timing light.My plan was to get it broken in then have it tuned. | ||
| Swampy |
Are you overfilled with oil? Remember...only check when the engine is hot, like after a run. I would modify you crankcase ventilation system to have it routed out of your air box and someplace else. | ||
| Bandito90 |
I did re check the oil.I drained it as the bike has been sitting since last september.I need to add fresh gas and oil.I did start it a few times in the winter.When I had the head apart I had the valves turned when the new springs were installed. | ||
| Ezblast |
you mean 45/175 - probably ok, check das boot as well. Could well be dirty carb - clogged or partially cloged jets. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 09, 2009) | ||
| Bandito90 |
I do have a new boot.The thing is I can see the oil coming out of the carb when I give it gas!I'm just trying to cover all my bases and get the bike going again.Is it possible I'm having a lot of blow by? | ||
| Ezblast |
rings need to seat, and anything above 5000 rpm will spit oil - don't ask - lol - surely you are not taking it that hard - hmmm - out of ideas - anybody else - clogged oil return on the head? EZ | ||
| Bandito90 |
Don't worry I'm not taking it hard.It just gets frustrating.I like to do things myself.So I'm determined to fix it and not take it to the shop.Well on the plus side I'm really learning about my engine.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you re-peeked into your cyl. to see if there are any scuffs, etc - signs of bad ring seal? - EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur with Swampy. If the bikes been sitting and you didnt run it before changing the oil, you probably left a lot in the crankcase. The crankcase has a drain plug. Do Not Overtighten it if you ever drain it-you will likely crack the engine case  Check the spark plug for detonation problems (or at least being very white). Do a compression check. Should be about 210psi. Realistically the compression would have to be very low for you to experience major running problems. You might be low on power, but thats usually all. You could be experiencing a lot of blow by, especially if a ring was installed upside down. I did experience some detonation problems when I went with the 515. It was however a different set-up than you have and we did more than 15 hard miles before the problem was fixed, with little or no consequence to the engine. Could also just be a coincidence. This wouldnt be the first time major work was done and a different unrelated (to the work done) problem cropped up. Recap- Check: spark plug (and gap) oil level pushrods compression boot Again, we are going on the assumption that it ran fine, then went bad. | ||
| Swampy |
the spray coming out of your carb is probably gas, there is alot of intake reversion that goes on with this little engine. | ||
| Bandito90 |
Well with 80 pounds of compression.It looks like it's time to pull the head.I guess have the cylinder checked to see if it's that or if I have a valve open or bent and if the rings are installed wrong.If the cylinder is scored or not correct are they able to be over bored or are the 515 cylinders at there max? | ||
| Ezblast |
I would talk with NHRS and ask them - being their product, and it sounds like their fubar - so far. Let us know how this turns out! EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
did you check for piston to valve clearance? | ||
| Ezblast |
The B70 should not have such problems. Same area as the SE550/XB cam which is a bolt in except that better springs, seals, and guides are needed. EZ | ||
| Bandito90 |
I did talk to them last year when I sent the cylinder back.They said their guy might have not honed it correctly.It's been awhile since August when I bought the parts.So if it's bad it's my loss.They installed the rings and put the piston in the cylinder.So I'm not sure about what it measured to or anything.I'm going to contact them and get the specs and see what can be done.If the cylinder is ok.I should just go ahead and get the head ported while it's apart. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its still possible it could be swapped pushrods, so be sure to check that before you pull it completely apart. You may also want to add a small amount of oil to the cylinder to see if the compression comes up (verifying bad rings). I dont know which 515 cylinder you have. It can probably be rehoned, but scored is a different story. I dont know about a 515 oversize, but I do know a stock cylinder (or at least its been reported) can be overbored to the 515 size (.063" oversize). That may be another possibility if you still have the original cylinder. (a 515 oversize would require a new piston too ).I dont mean to make you go through all this extra work, you just want to be sure you've found the problem and eliminate any others. It really sucks that you have to pull it apart (but it gets easier every time). "I should just go ahead and get the head ported while it's apart." You have definitely crossed over to the dark side LOL! | ||
| Bandito90 |
I like to work on my bikes,But I would also like to ride it.I have the cheaper of the 515 cylinders.NHRS told me today it is at its maximum and can't be bored.They also suggested doing a leak down test.I'm looking at making my own from plans on the net.I have 80 pounds compression and will try the oil suggestion.My friend thinks the rings did not seat.I want to eventually get the head done,But my friends are just saying to get it running correctly first.I figure it would just take a whole bunch of what could be wrong out of the mix. |
