| Author | Message | |||||
     Ganthos |
Well i tried adjusting the clutch and lubing my clutch cable but it stills grinds gears with the clutch pulled in.. Do i need a new clutch? or is it something else? | |||||
| Ezblast |
Did you do the adjustment at the primary, with your primary chain adjuster loose? If so the Shift Pawl adjustment could be next, but there are other things to do as well if you are in that deep. EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
i will try the primary adjustment next and see if that helps do i have to take the side cover off to do the shift paw adjustment? | |||||
| Buellistic |
There are four things that cause gear grinding when putting in low gear ... 1) You have a wet clutch(break it loose when engine is cold) ... 2) You primary chain is or was not adjusted on the tight spot ... 3) You are not adjusting the clutch correctly(one step is missing in the FSM to take full advantage of lever called the RAMP,outer in the Parts Book) ... 4) You must pull the lever to the handlebar TO COMPLETELY RELEASE CLUTCH PLATES ... Iam Noone' } (Message edited by BUELLISTIC on May 22, 2011) | |||||
| Ezblast |
Yes - you have to take the side cover off to do the shift paw adjustment, and the clutch,primary chain, and rotor-sprocket. Loosen primary, then do clutch adjustment at the primary, which means a new inspection cover gasket, then re- adjust primary via the sound method. Buellistic - what does pulling the clutch in while adjusting the clutch do? EZ | |||||
| Buellistic |
EZ: Check my post up-date ... Iam Noone' | |||||
| Ezblast |
Ahhhh....ancient secret, now uncovered, that would release excess pressure on the bearing, making the adjustment more accurate? Is that what your saying? EZ | |||||
| Gearheaderiko |
I 'd like to ask "is the grinding new to the bike or has it always done it?" (or are you new to the bike?) Is it just 1st & 2nd gears or all gears? Is it just when cold? | |||||
| Ganthos |
its new to the bike i was ridding it for maybe 20-30 min then when i hit the city traffic and had to use first i would grind when going it gear i think it was first and second only. | |||||
| Ganthos |
this is where i got the info on how to adjust my clutch http://www.bcrider.com/blastclutch.html | |||||
| Ganthos |
oh yeah i should mention that this started before i tried adjusting anything | |||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, yes it could be something else. Does the clutch also drag? Go over all the adjustments to be sure they're spot on. You dont want to be pulling things apart for nothing! Can you get it NOT to grind, by careful shifting, etc? How long have you had your Blast and whats the mileage? Last time the fluid was changed? Just trying to figure if this is just the 'normal' grinding the Blast has chronically suffered (that can be almost eliminated) or is something really going south. | |||||
| Ganthos |
it has 8500 on it when the grinding started i changed all the fluid on it but no help i will try doing the adjustments again just to be sure. I have had it for 3 months or so when i got it it shifted really smooth. I have always used my clutch to shift.... I am kinda at a loss with this because it was fine then all of a sudden it didn't want to do into gear.  | |||||
| Ganthos |
i have had it not do it. it was after i parked it for a few weeks then went back to it fired it up let it warm up for a few minutes then put it in gear and no problem when i loaded it in the truck. When i got it out it was doing it again. I don't leave it gear when transporting it. Yes it does seem like the clutch dose drag. | |||||
| Gearheaderiko |
You might have a bearing going out in the clutch hub assembly. I dont remember which one causes the symptoms you describe, but it does tend to be okay, then not okay. If so you'll be taking at least the primary cover off to check. I'll rack my brain and see if it comes to me! Otherwise go over the adjustments and try and note any other symptoms. Are you planning on fixing it yourself? | |||||
| Ezblast |
The #2 bearing is my bet -
EZ | |||||
| Ezblast |
2 causes - mis-adjusted clutch, and/or primary too tight - they can cause it separately or together. The why of why I recommend a bit loose primary, and very light bottom on the clutch adjustment. I don't see that Buellistic's clutch adjustment addition couldn't hurt, might help, just use a heavy rubber band to hold the clutch in, or whatever, tape, etc. EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
k i tried to adjust the clutch again before work. i loosened the primary all the way (backed the bolt out) then adjust my clutch, then readjusted the primary it still did it. i will try Buellistic's way and see if then is a change but if not Ezblast could you pm me the parts i need to do the shift claw adjustment if i have to change the bearings. Anyone know how much they are? Any special tools need to do the shift claw adjustment? | |||||
| Ezblast |
No special tools - I'll list it tonight. EZ | |||||
| Swampy |
You want to adjust the primary first, then adjust the clutch. Make sure your clutch pivot on the lever is not worn, that could cause you to not get enough cable movement to release the clutch fully. | |||||
| Ezblast |
Chapter 6 of the manual gives all the basics you need for specs - torque values, etc., and here are the parts pages needed to order parts: The clutch part #2 is listed above, below is are the rest:
With a review of the articles here in the Primary section you should be good to go! EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
k Thank you ezblast for the info. but i am not clear about the shift claw adjustment when i order parts i will order a manual for it too. What parts do i need to do the shift claw adjustment? | |||||
| Ezblast |
if you have tried the clutch adjustment at the primary and still nothing, then your detent plate, detent clip, and drum pins have mis-aligned/or clip broke. Hardest part will be taking off the left side peg arm, you'll have to go all the way into the primary, replace clip, plate and re-adjust drum pins so that they are all the same size - put a drop of locktite at pin base and gently tap in till the same size as the rest. While there - chamfer stator plate edges ttill all are rounded. Do shift-pawl adjustment - use proper drill bit size. You will need a primary gasket, primary inspection gasket, oring for primary drain and adjuster, shift shaft seal, detent plate, 2 Detent clips (some folks put two on if 1 is too loose feeling),red and blue locktite, and basic tools, and a thin1/16" piece of steel 1 1/2" by 4 1/4" with each end rounded. A couple of beers later your done, reassemble - couple more beers. lol - Test ride in the morning - should shift better than when new from the factory. a step by general step aproach: Drain primary, loosen primary adjuster, loosen clutch cable (a cheat would be to count flats out so you can go that many back in) put bike in N remove arm remove shifter remove inspection cover remove primary cover, put aside gently with clutch cable still attatched you are here in the primary - remove all the stuff in front of the clutch basket, you'll be replacing that small bearing as well - so order it, remove top and bottom chain guide shoes and lower spring,remove clutch basket, chain and rotor as a unit - you'll need some big ass sockets and that piece of metal between the two, I think it is the clutch basket nut that is reversed threaded - done with the disassembly Your problem is a little different - you'll replace the Detent plate, clip(s) and do the drum pin adjustment as well, then do the shift pawl adjustment, then the clutch adjustment, then the primary adjustment, then the clutch cable adjustment. Except you'll also have the rotor off as well so you can get to everything. your detent plate, detent clip, and drum pins have mis-aligned/or clip broke. you'll have to go all the way into the primary, replace clip, plate and re-adjust drum pins before putting on new detent clip and plate, so that the drum pins are all the same size - put a drop of locktite at pin base of any long pin and gently tap in till the same size as the rest - max length 0.335. While there - chamfer stator plate edges till all are rounded. Do shift-pawl adjustment - use proper drill bit size. You will need a primary gasket, primary inspection gasket, oring for primary drain and adjuster, shift shaft seal, detent plate, 2 Detent clips (some folks put two on if 1 is too loose feeling),red and blue locktite, and basic tools, and a thin1/16" piece of steel 1 1/2" by 4 1/4" with each end rounded. A couple of beers later your done, reassemble - couple more beers. lol - Test ride in the morning - should shift better than when new from the factory. When your in this far - your just following the easy to follow manuals instructions for procedures - to get into and out of 3rd gear you may have to rock/roll the bike a tinny bit - lol - then just reassemble to spec per manual For folks - notes on the Shift Pawl Adjustment: 1) Use the correct size drill bit - see manual. 2) measure your drum pins, if any are over sized, put a drop of red locktite at the base and gently tap back in till the same length as the rest of the pins. 3) Replace detent plate and clip, maybe use two clips - been done - those clips are a real weakness. 4) Chamfer the edges of the Stator wire protection plate. 5) make sure primary is totally loose when doing adjustments, should be the last thing adjusted - clutch at primary then at levor, levor should be loosened before opening primary. 6) Use a good synth in 15/50. The rest is pretty much by the manual and easy to do. Note there is both a parts manual and service manual here for your usage and reference. After 3 good 1/2 hour rides re-torque primary bolts to spec in pattern specified. I know its a bit haphazard, but its not really a how to - more of a rough outline of a how to, however, I hope you do get the idea of how easy it is - with the information supplied and the manuals it should be a piece of cake. and for the shift pawl itself:
With all that cut and paste info and the manual pages I gave you - you should be good, however, if you Go to my group, join and check out the files section, all the other info will be found there as well. EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
awesome thanks ezblast good thing there is a 3 day week end coming up. It will give me time to do all of this and plus i should have my rear set in thins weekend too. | |||||
| Ezblast |
You'll want to replace that bearing as well - that is your main problem - it is on the way out. However, alone - about 5 to 6 hours max - thats with breaks and beer - lol - just make sure you have everything to do the job right! EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
k just to make sure i am ordering everything i need clutch cover gasket primary cover gasket oil seal for shifter both clutch bearings detent plate then just because i am in there i was going to get so i have then if need to be replaced chain guide chain adjuster chain thensioner spring | |||||
| Ezblast |
You'll only need the #2 smaller clutch bearing, don't forget to get 2 detent clips - 11019 - to go with the plate. EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
I figured since i was in there might as well do both. Kinda like buy insurance  | |||||
| Ezblast |
Chances are the big bearing is fine - made to take mucho abuse. EZ | |||||
| Ganthos |
ezblast i need one more part number it the rubber garment that holds the breath tube in the top of the head have oil leaking out the top of my engine. Is the elbow that goes into it like a pvc valve in a car? if so should I just replace both? |
