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Bhdooo
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 11:45 am: | 
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So both the velocity stack and the exhaust should arrive today. Should I put the stack on first and ride with that for a bit? How would I know it's proper?
Also with regards to the exhaust,I'm assuming I'm going to need a gasket and in my googling I read something about using a screaming eagle one? What is the difference? Any other exhaust things I should pick up while I'm there? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 08:49 pm: |
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Run as is with the Yost tube first. Only proceed to the next mod when you're sure the previous one is running okay. I know you're anxious, but it will pay huge dividends in the long run (doing things right usually does)!
Wire mesh exhaust gasket, Period. There are cone shaped and square shaped. Either will work, the cone is usually much harder to fit in the head. Make sure you remove the old gasket.
There are other non wire mesh "performance" gaskets out there-they will be nothing but trouble for you. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 09:29 pm: |
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http://cv-performance.com/exhaust-port-gasket-tape r-style-mesh
Or this?
http://mstore.harley-davidson.com/store/se-perform ance-exhaust-gasket-kit
I don't need anything else? Longer studs? Other clamps to mount?
If I am understanding how the cv40 works properly, I should know that the yost isn't installed properly if I have problems with the topend? Ie when the main jet kicks in? So far the bike seems to be smooth, power delivery is linear and the bike seems to idle quieter. But then again this was a really brief after install late night thing and I didn't have a chance to WOT through all 5 gears. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 09:56 pm: |
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Either gasket will work. The SE will be easier to install. Any stock gasket from any Evo engine, sportster or big twin will work. The stock gaskets will give you more room to play with, as will that taper gasket. Given you non stock exhaust, I'd go with "more room to play with". You won't suffer performance.
You don't need longer studs. You'll want to use "nyloc" nuts and anti-seize on the exhaust studs. You might have to make your own brackets or buy some. Not hard. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 10:25 pm: |
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Main jet is for top end. But it's a transition from idle, quarter throttle, midrange and WOT. One system will affect another to a certain degree, depending on throttle position.
I have not researched the Yost tube or kit. I don't have the patience for it and the further you deviate from stock parts, the harder it will be to find replacement parts when you break down. Okay if your on the racetrack, bad if you're 80 miles from nowhere. There's plenty of "stock" performance parts available. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2016 - 01:39 pm: |
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So yost tube went in fine and I started working on installing the stack. I don't have any allens that can fit since the stack gets in the way -_-. What specific kind of allen wrench would I need so I don't strip?
I'll be getting the cvp gasket so I'll have "more room to play with".
(Message edited by bhdooo on November 10, 2016) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2016 - 06:04 pm: |
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Allen's also come as a 3/8" "socket"
Or flip the Allen the other way and use a box end wrench on the short end for leverage.
Have you run the Yost yet without modifying the airbox (stack)? |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2016 - 07:50 pm: |
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I meant that the short end of an allen is too long, can't get it to sit flush, and I definitely don't want to round out this piece of kit.
I'll try to find a shorter socket.
I ran the yost kit with a stock box. I never got around to cutting the interior walls. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2016 - 02:29 am: |
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Wow I cut off a piece of an allen key to use a wrench on. Still too close to get good leverage and make tight. Guess I'm going to buy ball end hex socket set afterall.
Back to stock airbox for now.
Also I don't think that muffler is the correct size. There's no way I can get the hose clamp to tighten enough for the jardine.
Which makes sense because the muffler is 2in while the Jardine is a constant 1 3/4? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2016 - 01:08 pm: |
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Do they make a muffler in a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4?
You can a reducer sleeve or adapter. Can be ordered and sometimes the right size is available at an auto parts store. Or a muffler shop. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2016 - 03:27 pm: |
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http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp ?CatID=27
Looks like they have one that's 1 3/4 or 1.75 OD on their website.
The jardine header should be 1 3/4 throughout correct? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2016 - 05:39 pm: |
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I do not know what the I.D or O.D. of the Jardine is. The super trap might be the same size pipe and you can use a connector sleeve. You just don't want the super trap to slide inside the Jardine headpipe.
But the jardine is a consistent size. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 03:26 pm: |
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In the exhaust section of the knowledge vault, it appears as if the jardine has a 1 /3/4 OD. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 09:19 pm: |
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Is your headpipe on order?
I don't know if its ID or OD. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Monday, November 14, 2016 - 11:11 am: |
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https://imgur.com/a/nS1mB |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Friday, December 09, 2016 - 01:58 pm: |
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So I hit a fat bump on the road and noticed my bike started vibrating a lot.
Got home and one of the bolts for my front isolator came off. So I'm ordering a new one since it don't look too good lol.
L1501.T
Is that the only thing I need?
Superbrace is sorta having a discount in case nobody heard and I'll probably slap on one of these while I do that and my fork seals... |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, December 09, 2016 - 05:36 pm: |
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(SuperBrace is right around the corner from you!!) Dont forget to mention you heard about it on Badweb!
(Message edited by Gearheaderiko on December 09, 2016) |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2016 - 08:43 pm: |
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So that is the only thing i need for the front isolator replacement? No other bolt kits etc
Indeed Superbrace is super close. Its actually a block away from where i store my bike. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2016 - 10:27 pm: |
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Just the bolt and the washer. Follow the repair procedure. Replace the other bolt if it looks damaged and look for cracks.
EZ is the reason SuperBrace makes a Blast brace. He convinced them to modify an existing brace they made. I took my bike down there so they could get measurements from it and psycho bought the first one! |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 02:05 pm: |
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Haha lucky for me the bolt and washer was caught in the frame. Or at least whatever it is that looked like it kept it in place before. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2017 - 04:22 pm: |
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Fork seal time! -_- anything else I should be doing apart from 7.5 oil? Darkside ideas welcome.
I do have a superbrace ready btw. I also got to meet their dog and it was amazing.
For future reference, what material are the wheels made of? Can they be anodized? If not powdercoat would be cool.
(Message edited by Bhdooo on January 22, 2017) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2017 - 06:25 pm: |
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Well you could change to progressive springs. Race tech valves. Shim the stock spring up and set SAG!
If you do nothing but change to 7.5 weight oil, you'll have a very poor handling bike. Thinner fork oil only works if you've changed the internal valving.
How much do you want to spend?!! |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2017 - 12:09 am: |
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Interested in hearing all the options. I truly intend on never selling this bike, so it would be interesting to hear how I can slowly upgrade over time. Much like the xb9 swap later down the road etc. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2017 - 02:17 pm: |
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Anyone ever mounted a center stand as well? I take it most didn't because of the stock exhaust but an aftermarket does seem to provide more wiggle room |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2017 - 09:19 pm: |
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A center stand is certainly possible with the beefy exhaust and kickstand mount.
Race tech fork valving should be installed first, IF you're going to go all the way. Springs, spacers and fluid are easier to change. A lot can be done very cheaply with just preload spacers and fork oil. Depends on your riding abilities and where and how you'll ride. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2017 - 11:48 am: |
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That's good to hear about the center stand. I really like the idea of having one. What am I looking for specifically when it comes to that?
As for the race tech stuff you are talking about the gold valve? So you're saying if I'm going to go all the way eventually that should be the first thing? Then springs? To me it sounds like they should be done at the same time no?
Also it appears works and race tech are more or less equal distance from me....
But those are just names I keep on seeing popping up in old posts lol. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:13 pm: |
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Yes, gold valves. Springs are easy to change when the bike is all together, the valves are not.
As far as the center stand, you are the only person I can recall desiring to put on on. However, I might have one for you. But it will be up to you to make it fit. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 10:30 pm: |
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Haha, I like the concept of a center stand because I never know when I'll work on my blast, so I might as well have a built in work mode.
I am now saving my pennies for the gold valves. It will be for the Ninja 250s? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 11:19 pm: |
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Yes 2000-2005, per EZ's profile! |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 02:08 pm: |
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Interestingly enough, race tech has a page for the blast now. They do indeed list the same part number as the ninja emulators. And the ninja listing goes all the way back to the 80s lol
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Buell/Blast/20 00-10
While I know that you and ez have the work springs, I feel like I can't find enough information to start researching the difference between it and the race tech springs listed. Plus I have no idea where to start to better inform myself. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 03:03 pm: |
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Probably on their site because of Badweb or EZs persistence.
I only have stock springs. My initial goals were budget race oriented. "How do I modify the Blast cheaply and get them race track ready" in an effort to get more people on the racetrack without spending buckets of money (or just buying a cheap Rice rocket) and using stock or factory parts.
I just added preload to the stock springs and changes the fork oil.
EZ's approach is to go as far as possible without restrictions, but not completely abandoning the basic Blast platform.
The best way to learn is to buy a performance modification book or a performance riding book with a few chapters on bike set up. Then you will have better tools to ride and what pays off better in modifications.
I know what I like and want from a bike. My tastes do not suit everybody, but that's the advantage in building your own! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 03:30 pm: |
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https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lee+par ks+total+control&tag=hydusmmsn-20&index=aps&hvadid =78202767111791&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&ref=pd_sl _5dwpgsdv9r_e
Is a good place to start. Again, you want a book that information on bike set-up that goes into detail of the how's and whys. |
Bhdooo
| | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 03:52 pm: |
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So I finally had issues getting parts. Had some extra cash so wanted to get all the parts to refresh my transmission/primary later down the line. Can't get the tensioner spring... Or at least I think that's what they said on the phone. I'll confirm later when I pick everything else up. |
