| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
As long as the carb is put together properly a #45, 46 or 48 slow jet should solve the problem. too Rich usually doesn't kill the hot start. If you have a crappy or misgapped spark plug, that can kill the hot start if too rich. Make sure the spark plug tip is still on and the plug wire isn't coming off. Kickstand or other safety switches (esp the BAS) can cause a difficult hot start. To that end you should leave the timing cover off to see if the LED is flashing and also carry an extra spark plug or screwdriver (be careful!!!!) to check for spark. A difficult hot start can be attributed to faulty electrical (ignition). I'm always willing to take texts and will respond if able. I can also "Face time" if at home. | ||
| Wrightd223 |
Bhdoo I have been able to find some parts on ebay, and went with gambling on their quality if the price is right. I was able to get a voltage regulator for a lot less than other people were asking for. I also needed a PCV vlave and grommet and could find those anywhere. Tough thing about the blast is there are always search results that pop up in google, but most of those sites have shut down now and don't take orders... For the things I couldn't find I hit up a harley dealership. Some dealerships still have suppliers for Blast parts, some don't. Typically the ones that don't will know of a "nearby" store you can call up and order parts from and get them shipped to your doorstep. Real easy to do over the phone if you know the part numbers you are looking for. Good Luck! I find the lack of availability of Blast parts one of the most frustrating parts about the bike... | ||
| Bhdooo |
I took the spark plug out and put it back in. I also put the stock air filter back on. Still has that hesitation, but it's less pronounced now and the bike starts a bit more regularly... I also forgot to turn my petcock to off and a couple of minutes later it dropped a little bit of fuel. My float adjustment wrong? Or is that from my cracked venturi? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Could be float adjustment, stuck float needle or damaged float needle or dirt in the fuel line. Fuel lines can degrade over time constantly jamming your needle valve open. If the line is hard or spongy, replace it. A cheap clear inline fuel filter (IE: air cooled VW) can be cheap insurance and easy to check if you think dirt might be a problem. | ||
| Bhdooo |
As in swapping out what is in the tank currently for the vw unit? So the mid range hesitation shouldn't be there with my 45 jet if my carb is put together properly? My starting issue seems to have been resolved since I retorqued my plug. Still needs a little throttle at first sometimes when cold. As in swapping out what is in the tank currently for the vw unit? Also considering how I have the primary spacer on mine still, I can get away with tightening a little bit and just draining and filling through the vent tube right? I know you said I shouldn't have to do a full refresh yet, and the stuff I've seen with the shoe and whatnot being destroyed would be due to the primary being too tight? Mine should be loose due to the spacer, hence the rattling I hear? (Message edited by bhdooo on October 12, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Install the filter inline, between the petcock and carb. Yes, chain will be on the loose side with the spacer still in there. Tight chains do way more damage than loose chains (and given EZ's current recommendation of 25 flats out, your chain adjustment is likely close!). Hesitation, if normal, can be remedied with the 2 #4 washers/shims under the needle. | ||
| Bhdooo |
My needle is shimmed with spacers thumpe provided when i bought my superboot. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hmmmm.....I would see how it runs with and without the shims. If there's no difference, you have a problem. If there is a definite difference, as in better with 2 shims, I would add more shims. But I'm skeptical as 2 shims should have cured the problem. I've run 4 shims, but only because I ran better with 4, not because it hesitated at 2 shims (I'm not stock). I'll think about it some more. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Other news. 96 was able to be hit. I think the whole fuel dumping thing happens if I forget to turn my petcock when parking. First time I rode a bit aways and it didn't start. Notice the fuel dump when I gave it a little twist to help out when it didn't start right up. Fuel starts to dumps. In the past if I look it appears to flow out of where the the cap from 49 stating. Luckily I was on a hill and bump started it. Was fine after I cleared out the excess fuel from the float bowl? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bad or clogged float needle or incorrect float height. Install the fuel filter so you can be sure dirt from the tank or a disintegrating fuel line isn't the problem. (If the fuel line is squishy soft or ultra hard-replace it). | ||
| Bhdooo |
Hmmmm so there's really not much we can do for maintenance gaskets since Buell Parts is now dead too right? Figured I should get a primary gasket, gas cap o-ring, clutch cover gasket, air box seal, and venturi ring. The fuel filter is one of these? https://goo.gl/BIstnu Looking towards the future: And I've read a good budget exhaust setup would be a Jardine header and this: https://goo.gl/Wp9C9b Do I need to get more disks too? Shame a white bros would be impossible to find still. Seemed like a cool piece of kit. Intake side: leaning towards a cheap velocity stack due price and weight... But Dan's intake is probably better for longevity? So if I do Dan's which filter to go for? Black is important enough to me lol. (Message edited by bhdooo on October 22, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Gaskets are probably still available through HD/X Buell dealers. They're still out there, even on e-bay. XB primary gaskets and clutch covers work too. But the primary gasket is a little different, but works. That's the fuel filter. That exhaust silencer looks good/okay. The White Brothers was woefully unreliable. Had one, got it replaced free by WB twice and sold the exhaust. Truly a "race only" exhaust, that's why there's one on the raceBlast only! If your bike isn't left outside and you live in SoCal, your boot will be fine, provided your stock boot is installed correctly and you're not backfiring! Use EZ's stack set up WITH correct Outerwears filters. (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on October 22, 2016) | ||
| Bhdooo |
My bike might be left outside here and there. I see ez velcros a ziplock bag lol | ||
| Bhdooo |
Update. Ordered the jardine header, the muffler, 12 extra disks and a yost kit. Starting to think the hot start issue is self inflicted flood scenario. In the msf course I took we used the killswitch to turn off the bike. Then I would use the key and turn off the fuel. I'm guessing the float bowl has too much fuel and compounded with the bike like just a little bit of throttle on cold starts I've gotten in the habit of twisting it every time. Lately I've been keeping my fuel on off until the bike is idling and then turning the fuel on. Haven't had a hot start issue since. Went on a late night foggy ride, bike stumbles a bit upon full throttle,felt like every gear. For sure when I was cruising at 60 in 5th,if I twisted hard it would lag more than I recall if I did partial throttle? Can't tell if my needle wasn't set properly or my lack of putting on the left hand side of the airbox, or even because of the fact I still haven't gotten around to cutting the interior walls of my airbox. When I put on the stuff I ordered I intend on going up to 175 from my current 170 making me at 45/175 using the blue needle set in the middle notch. All of my rubber orings and gaskets are here now as well. So hopefully if the stumbling is due to some sort of intake leak it should now be addressed. Question about the speed dealers velocity stack. Is it normally $60? Or is this actually on sale at the moment? I know that I want to use this as my intake later on. Plan on getting a catchcan as well when I get the stack since the inside of my airbox is fairly coated. No liquid pooled on the bottom though. Pardon the rambling nature, currently at work and trying to decide if I just buy the stack even though I bought rubber seal for the airbox... (Message edited by bhdooo on November 05, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
So you did everything at once? If so, that's a bad idea. You know have no idea which mod caused the problem. The Yost kit comes with a needle? My advice is to put the carb back to stock, 45/170. See how it runs. Then mod and adjust as necessary. It does sound as if you're too lean. But you don't have a base starting point, since you changed everything at once. if you don't have any idea what you're doing or trying to accomplish, modifications are best done one at a time. It's still a good idea even if you are simply copying someone else's set-up. If you are running a completely unique set up (which it appears you are), then it's extremely important to do one step at a time. If you don't have the experience and run from the normal or common modifications, you are on your own to try and figure it out.  That's just my long standing advice coupled with the frustration of how many Blasters just give up on their bikes and sell them as unreliable, unrepairable junk. There are virtually no good shops to turn your bike over to if you can't figure it out. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS in theory, your blast should start without any twisting of the throttle. Minimal twist might be necessary as most learn the quirks of their own bike. More than minimal twisting means you have a problem (or modifications make it necessary-but it's still not normal). The Blast does not have an accelerator pump, so twisting the throttle just changes the air/fuel ratio, but does not richen it. Usually it just makes it leaner. | ||
| Bhdooo |
I haven't installed anything yet. I just have them shipping to me to install once i figure out my current issues. Yes the yost kit comes with jets needles and a new spring as well as the emulsion tube. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Just to make it clear the only things I've done so far: Charcoal canister removal New battery New Plug Rejet to 45 instead of 42 Two shims on my needle. Outerwears filter on my airbox. With my airbox, I don't have the lhs on or the bottom screw on the right side. | ||
| Ezblast |
Blue needle is rich, do not use a cheap plug. Could be bad gas - since it is not constant. Try just one shim? EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
Of the top of my head I believey plug is a denso ix27b. http://yostperformance.com/faq/index.php#CV40 According to this the blue one should be leaner? Do you mean try only one shim with my stock needle? | ||
| Bhdooo |
Hmmm cheap gas is an interesting idea, i did have to stop at a random spot. I can't tell if my memory is playing tricks on me, but it might be possible the bike runs marginally better with the stock dirty air cleaner as well..... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Remove the Outerwears filter. Did you have this problem before the Yost kit? | ||
| Bhdooo |
I haven't installed any of my aftermarket parts yet. Anyways turns out I had it double filtered.  Quick test with only the outwears if I redline it there's no noticeable dip. If I'm cruising and then pin it the engine appears to lug. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
So the only part installed is the Yost kit and Outerwears? So you tried it with the Outerwears filter completely off? Is this a new problem or still the original problem before you made any changes? I am confused! The midrange dip is often solved by adding 2 #4 shims to the stock needle (if it's the normal "dip"). | ||
| Ezblast |
Cool! EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
Sorry for the confusion, all of the work done is what is listed above. So no yost yet but yes to outerwears. I never got a consistent linear power delivery from when I brought the bike back to life, however I can say that at this point it might be due to short shifting or lugging the engine because with some redline tests the bike pulled nicely. So if I shift early and then pin the throttle, the bike would have a dip, at first I thought I was bouncing off the rev limiter but then it would start pulling and then actually hit redline. If I am barely giving it throttle, but enough for it to slowly speed up it will slowly pull with no dip. Again I am running 45/170 with the stock needle shimmed with shims provided by thumpe. I still am learning how this bike behaves, and only barely getting a grasp of motorcycles in general. Does this mean that when I suddenly give it full throttle I am hitting a rich condition? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No. If you're lugging the engine it all makes sense. It's meant to be revved high, it's the only way you get power. It's not like a car or big motorcycle where it will run at low revs. 32 mph is redline in first gear. You should be hitting at least 20 mph minimum before you shifting to 2nd (and that would be mild easy riding). Running at low rpms is just for putting along. Any acceleration is done by dropping down a gear or 2. I don't remember stock redline in 2nd or 3rd, but 4th is 80mph, 5th is 96mph. Don't be afraid to rev this bike high. It's the only way to get decent acceleration and power, and it can take it. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Giggity. I'll put on the yost tube next then. I think on my bike 2nd is 50ish, 3rd is 70ish? And sorry that was such an overall dumb noob thing. But I learned haha. (Message edited by bhdooo on November 08, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I just hope I'm not a D*** in my replies. It's tough to gauge how much motorcycle and mechanical experience someone has online. Sometimes (most often) I give too much information, sometimes not enough. We were all new once! | ||
| Bhdooo |
Nah you're good. I appreciate the cinciseness. Stock emulsion tube looked gross. Yost is in. Has some threads still showing ie not flush like stock. But I tightened it as much as I could. Didn't really get a chance to give it a full shakedown. Sorry for no pics. Phone died and I decided to take my chances on buttoning it up. Will admit I changed it while leaving the carb hanging on the superboot. Only airbox was removed to drop float bowl. |
