| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Seriously, rip it all off!! Follow my instructions. It's VERY simple, don't let all those hoses confuse you. | ||
| Bhdooo |
It's not going to matter much now, but in your original instructions you said to use a 3/8 bolt to plug the fat hose. Wouldn't that be the pcv hose that I'm now running vented? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It's vented elsewhere, at the T before the carb mouth where you circled in red. The hose at the carb mouth is just attached to a bolt head, venting through the T. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Once you rip all those hoses off, it's a moot point. But you are correct, it must be vented somewhere. | ||
| Bhdooo |
So following advice I've also seen on the site of turning that T and using the airbox as a catchcan. Could I just route the hoses in a manner that it vents into the bottom of the airbox? Or is down to the ground really the best? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your choice. Your airbox may get really oily though. It might not. Depends how lucky your Blast is. | ||
| Bhdooo |
I'll just clean it frequently. I'm going for all the bang for buck mods ala ezmod and drilled exhaust. Unless I keep it and I'll try to find something close to the supertrap 515 stage 2 and a velocity stack. But I'm trying to keep it a commuter lol | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Commuter! Lol! That's what I said!! It can be a fast commuter! Start looking for an XB head. That's the easy way to fast with good mpg!! | ||
| Bhdooo |
I'm definitely getting to ahead of myself haha. Going to rejet and yank the canister this weekend. And hopefully it'll run without needing a superboot and we'll go from there. But I'll remember to look for an xb head later down the line. Thanks for all the help!  | ||
| Wrightd223 |
This forum really is dangerous. I was pumped when I got my Blast a couple months ago. Now I am constantly looking at stuff to do to it rather than just use it as the commuter for work like I originally intended... Instead my amazon cart is full of fancy iridium spark plugs, handlebars, mirrors, and cleaners and all my google searches are on painting the bike and tail light cleanup kits ahaha | ||
| Bhdooo |
I think it is a testament to how happiness can be found in "bein last" lol. At least with in my case with mirrors and turn signals I do need to get new ones... | ||
| Bhdooo |
So I rejetted, and in the midst of creating more clearance I noticed that the spark plug wire separated. The bottom gold part of my new iridium plug seemed to have unthreaded itself. I'm guessing that's why it didn't start again. Anyways I simply rethreaded it on, yanked it out of the plug wire and put it back on. Needed a quick spray of starter fluid and then it idled. Then this happened. https://vid.me/dLKp My phone was about to die so I apologize for the short video. But was that idle too high? I wanted to say no since it didn't really warm up, but since the exhaust was like so, and it was kind of loud, I turned it off pretty quick... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like you pulled and stuck a throttle cable. You didn't do anything to the carb, right? Loctite on the spark plug tip or it will happen again and again and again........ | ||
| Bhdooo |
The only thing I've done to the carb is a rejet. I'll shoot some pictures later. Which loctite? And what else should I loctite down? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Red is best, blue will do. It's as as needed basis. I'd have to list everything to Loctite as well as everything to anti-sieze! | ||
| Bhdooo |
I'll buy some red then. What about the glowing exhaust? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I didn't notice, I thought the question was just the high revving? How long did you have it running before it turned red? If you have a bad boot it can cause high reving, but not usually that high. The resulting lean condition can cause overheating of exhaust. There's also no air flowing to cool off the exhaust. It could also be getting ready to break in that section. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Would've been under 2 minutes I think. With my luck its probably the boot and the exhaust. When its off the exhaust right there doesn't look like its in the greatest shape either... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Was this the first time it ran after the rejet? | ||
| Bhdooo |
Yup. Just rejetted then I started it up. Took a spray of starter fluid then it idled. While a bit high that's way better than me having to be on the throttle to keep it from dying. https://imgur.com/a/Jvwee So I'm guessing what I circled might be why my idle is high? Although I do need to drill out the air idle adjustment I just haven't collected the necessary tools yet... And that exhaust is cooled in the picture, and that entire off looking area is what glowed the other night. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The throttle cable not properly seated is part of the problem. Bigger part is your idle SPEED (not mixture) screw is cranked all the way in (just to the right of where you circled). You really need to check your intake boot ("Das Boot"!), you have all the earmarks of a bad boot-IE: a whole bunch of stuff done to keep it running! Turn that screw out 1 turn then start the bike. If it's still racing, stop the bike and turn it out another turn. If it's just idling high, adjust it from there. But dont let it sit and race again. So to reiterate: reseat the throttle cable, back off the idle SPEED screw one turn and start your bike. See what happens. Don't let it race as it was before!!!! The bike will have to be warmed up for a proper idke speed adjustment. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Is there anything specific to reseat the throttle cable since it appears that the tab is bent? The instructions for the proper assembly would be in the carb section of the manual? Once I've backed out the idle speed screw how do I know if its still too high or just the auto choke? Again I must really express my gratitude for all the help. I started with exactly 0 familiarity with motorcycles but so far I've been confident enough (and too broke lol) to not take it to a shop. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I don't believe it's bent. It's just like a bicycle brake cable. You'll have to create a little slack and put it right. I can't tell from the picture if the throttle is contacting the idle speed screw or not. If you can't figure out the cable, just unscrew the idle speed screw a turn for starters. Unless you have a tachometer, there's no way for you to tell idle speed, but it's way to high now, that's easy!! It will be fully warned up after a 10 minute ride in HOT weather or at least 30 minutes in cooler weather. But start by getting the idle down out of self destruct mode! At least 1 turn, probably 2 or maybe even 3 turns of the idle speed screw. Give me a picture of the idle speed screw. | ||
| Bhdooo |
So what I thought was a bent tab was the throttle cable button that goes into that slot wasn't fully pushed in. I think it has too much slack as when I pull the throttle just ever so slightly for it to show no slack the bike won't die. So I need to adjust the throttle cable? http://imgur.com/a/8xIyS | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Don't worry about the slack for now. It won't affect running. | ||
| Bhdooo |
So in all new battery, spark plug, rejet, charcoal canister plug, and idle adjustment got it running. Now to fine tune everything. Fix the lights and bent wind screen, and new mirrors. Thank you everyone so much for all of your patience and help. I couldn't have done it without all of you. Especially you gearhead. Since this thread has so many posts now should I continue to ask for part suggestions here? Or start a new thread? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Stay right here! | ||
| Ezblast |
The hose clamp that holds das boot on can be badly positioned and catch on the throttle cable not allowing it to return check for that as well. EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
So I fiddled with the throttle and I like how it feels when I accelerate. But perhaps its due to my inexperience or not adjusting it properly but when I roll it back during gear changes that's not so good? Also it may be in my head or also since I'm still learning how to ride but I might be backfiring a little during downshifts? To be fair I gave it a test ride without the airbox fully on and I routed my pcv valve so that the airbox would be my catchcan so I'm probably just feeling that... How do I know if I need to do a primary adjustment? Or anything with the transmission. Its clunky at first but afterwords it seems fine? It can go up to 5th and whatnot. Just wondering since now that I know the bike runs I would like to change fluids and do all the other routine maintenance that's about to be due. Need new mirrors and was wondering what was more functional, something that uses the stock mount or a bar end? I would aesthetically prefer the mirror itself to be round. If I get bar ends I need to chop off my grips? I still can't get my seat to latch down. It looks like it doesn't go down far enough for the seat lever to latch into the slot. Turns out I have the higher seat height saddle and to be completely honest I think I would prefer the lower one. Are there better aftermarket ones that can go two up and have a seat cowl when I ride solo? Also any bag recommendations? I do plan on using this as a commuter afterall... lol My turn signals while dangling, are actually still working. Thinking about using rubber cement or super glue to get it back on? Is there a better compound I need to be aware of since the bike does vibrate so much? Oh and since my flyscreen mount is a little bent since the bike has obviously been dropped, I figured I can just put it in a clamp to straighten out. It looks like I might just be able to unscrew it but I dont have the bike in front of me while I'm typing this, and I haven't fully gone through the chassis chapter of the manual yet. Apologies for the wall of text but I think that's about it before I feel comfortable looking for mods after I really learn how to ride my blast. All I got to say is that it was a hoot already but seeing what others have done have really got the gears turning in my head. (Message edited by bhdooo on August 01, 2016) | ||
| Wrightd223 |
Hey Bhdoo, I have adjusted the primary a couple of times on Buell trying to get it right. Most people on here do it by sound. When you loosen the screw on the bottom of the bike (complete bottom of the bike, almost dead center above the muffler) the chain will get looser, when you tighten the screw, it pushes up on the chain and adds tension. Basically there is a sweet zone. Too loose and the bike will kinda sound like a box of rocks, too tight and your bike will start making a whirrring sound. Its tough, and I can barely hear it. I think I am going to try and readjust mine soon, and I found out that autozone has a loan a tool program where you can go and borrow a tool from them for a couple of days free of charge. This might be a good option for you, as I always didn't do it the way it was in the manual because I didn't have a torque wrench. I am thinking of grabbing a torque wrench from them and adjusting it to the specs in the manual. Gearhead and EZ, are the specs in the manual the best ones to run?? As for mirrors, I also wanted to swap out my handlebars for a better riding position. If you look online you can find some sets that are the handle bars, grips and bar end mirrors which I really like. Check out the picture section of the Thumper forum to see the set I just put on, as I just posted my new setup with clubman handlebars and bar end mirrors. And a bonus, the ones I have are circles like you want! As far as functionality, its probably a bit easier to glance at something similar to the big bulky stock mirrors, but the bar ends are slick and still relatively easy to use. Oh! Also, I believe the seat on my blast is the lower version. Is your seat an actual blast seat or some after market seat?? the fact that you cant latch it down worries me a bit, but if you got it to work I would maybe consider swapping seats if it works with my bike and is in good condition. |
