| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Fly screen or full windshield? $60 or $120 if in good condition and dependent on Colour (black is worth more, other colors less). $100-$150 for the bags in good condition. I wouldn't pay more than $75 for a low seat (low seats are not desired, tall seats command a high price). That would be what I consider "fair". Not top dollar, but not a steal either. Prices are going up. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Full windshield. Black/clear with brackets but no hardware? (Message edited by bhdooo on August 26, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
$120 is a minimum price for a full windshield in good condition. | ||
| Bhdooo |
So I finally got around to reinstalling the superboot and finally did an oil change. Starts up fine. The idle is set so i can take off clutch only. Not sure if my throttle cables are adjusted properly. And i can't properly check the oil? Let the bike warm up for at least 10 minutes. I know I for sure dumped 1.15 quarts at least, but when I do the dip stick it shows nothing? No visible leaks. Also after its been warm for a bit if i leave it neutral idling, the revs will drop it backfires and then the revs pick back up. I also feel it is worth mentioning that how I 49 stated the bike, i did a carb nipple plug, and the (pcv?) hose i plugged up both T's so the vent is into my airbox. Lastly I'm trying to craigslist that windshield and saddlebags for $150. Wish me luck. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Idling is not enough warm up for an accurate oil check. 1.15 qts? Do you 1 1/2 qts? 1 1/2 quarts is fine and it will show between the lines when properly warmed up. Taking off without giving it gas? That sounds like your idle is way too high. Doesn't it crunch going into first? It also sounds as if you still have an intake leak. You plugged the carb nipple with a proper rubber cap? Or? As long as the PCV hose is open somewhere, you're fine. It is puffing out of the hose when running? | ||
| Bhdooo |
The bike was ridden around the neighborhood for a bit as well. The idle doesn't sound that high, and I mean that if I feather the clutch I can ease into the friction point to start rolling. The plugs I used were marked for vacuum hoses at autozone. The hose that is in my airbox does puff every now and then. If I'm not mistaken this is my only outlet for the pcv hose since I plugged the two other Ts. I'll try to take pictures and video the next time I get to visit the bike. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PCV is fine then. No video needed. Did you change jets? (I can't remember) Falling idle and backfiring is indicative of a lean condition. I worry that your boot is still installed wrong. You didn't take off the manifold, right? The Blast is fine with 1 1/2 quarts of oil, don't worry about it. 2 quarts will be overfilled. Sounds crazy with so little oil, but that's the Blast. There is only one way it's not filling up with oil and that's a bad oil pump drive gear. Your lifters will start making lots of noise if that's the case. (How much oil came out when you drained it?) | ||
| Bhdooo |
I'm at 45/170. There actually was barely any oil when I drained it. Basically a little bit more than the filter and it was an immensely dark sludge consistency. I can't recall hearing anything weird? That's good to hear about the plugs though, I was a little concerned since the videos I found to change the oil, the drain tubes I essentially no longer have... On my boot install the only thing I removed was the airbox and carb. I actually felt as if I pushed both tubes into the boot a bit too snug if anything. And no I'm not up to 1.5 quarts yet. I dumped a quart. Rode it for a bit and then just did a little more but didn't do a full half quart since I couldn't get a measurement on my dipstick. (Message edited by bhdooo on August 28, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You should still have 2 drain tubes and 2 drain plugs down at the left passenger footpeg, nothing you've done has eliminated those. Did I miss something? If you didn't drain any oil, then added 1.5 qts and it still doesn't show on the dipstick, something isn't right. | ||
| Bhdooo |
I eliminated the pcv breather drain plug. I still have my oil drain plug. Going into first seems to be fine. I think I need to pull my carb again since I was messing with my air idle mix screw and tried to pull it out. Only to be blocked by my airbox. So now I think that spring and what not are probably lodged in the carb since there's no way it could've fallen out. So I know that I should have my air mix screw turned 2 1/2 turns out from bottom, but what exactly does turning it out do? I think you're right about it being a high idle now, at first it didn't seem that bad but riding it sounds pretty loud for how low in first I should be. Lastly after riding it for about 10 minutes, I shut it off and it wouldn't start again... (Message edited by bhdooo on August 30, 2016) (Message edited by bhdooo on August 30, 2016) | ||
| Bhdooo |
What the manual calls the Venturi ring, where the airbox gets bolted to the carb actually had a crack in it. Bike starts when cool if I give it a little throttle and eventually idles after I keep slight pressure. After a minute or two I can keep my hand off. After running for a bit, and a 5-10 min ride it'll die after sitting and won't start up. This will be followed by fuel flowing out of the carb in what appears to be the top left hole,and the main hole. Thinking I need to take the carb apart again and go over all the needles and jets. I suppose it is also possible in its past life the float wasn't properly put back on if someone took the carb apart to clean it. I've only sprayed carb cleaner in those bottom jet holes as viewed with the airbox cover off. If I let the bike cool down for a bit I can start the bike again...? I also did try to bring idle down after riding it around the neighborhood. Eventually went too low and died but when I screwed it back up and cooled down it started briefly. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the carb is overflowing with gas, the float is either improperly set or the needle is stuck open (or clogged with a small piece of dirt). Turn the gas off, remove the float bowl, gently hold the float up and turn on the gas. The float should turn the fuel flow on and off by raising and lowering. You can also check the float height. Carelessness and rough handling can alter the float height. Too rich a mixture can make for a hard start and if the fuel is still flowing, can foul the plug. This is the only part of the carb you need to worry about for now. stop the uncontrolled fuel flow | ||
| Bhdooo |
Hoping to get a chance to tear into the carb soon. Anyways as far as superbike bars go EMGO vs bikemaster? Emgo is lower? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bike master, but they might be the same manufacturer. Emgo hasn't left a good impression on me as far as quality products. | ||
| Anthony0267 |
I have a quick question will a yost rev 1 power tube for a cv44 also work for a cv40 carb | ||
| Ezblast |
no | ||
| Bhdooo |
I believe that the blast where I picked up the Buell Windshield from was running BikeMasters,so I had a chance to see how they felt and I'm going to go with those. Now to figure out what bolts I need for the windshield. I know I need to pick up grommets. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Float seems to be improperly adjusted. With the bowl off and carb on the bike, I pressed up on the float bowl and it would still drip. If I didn't press it, the fuel would just dump. Rechecked my needle shimming, sprayed carb cleaner through the jets, and my spring for the air mix screw is still in there. It just doesn't come out with the CVP screw. Still clueless about why the oil is the way it is. It's whatever if I need to drain and fill it again I got that 5qrt jub of 15-50 mobil 1 from walmart. At this point I think taking it to a shop is in order. I don't really have the tools to do all the other adjustments, nor would I know how it should feel. Hopefully I find a cool shop that'll let me watch and what not. Anyways definitely getting new bars and mirrors next, then down the line is probably just a Dan's intake or just stick a K&N in the airbox whichever handles rain better, D&D can to Jardine, Banke rearsets, and we shall see from there. Thanks for all the help everyone. I went from a junkyard bike with no history and nojrunnimg to something that intermittently runs. Under power it seems good. It just doesn't seem to idle properly and needs a 10k service. Haha happy blasting everyone. (Message edited by bhdooo on September 12, 2016) (Message edited by bhdooo on September 12, 2016) | ||
| Ezblast |
Adjusting the float is a piece of cake, did you check that the vacuum line is properly capped/pluged? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The vacuum cap is the one you capped off when you 49 stated the bike. If the Venturi is cracked it should be replaced. If the spring or washer or O-ring doesn't come out when you pull the screw out, you're probably missing a piece and could be why you have a running problem. A shop will very likely cost you lots and net you little. If they don't know specifically the Blast, they'll get it wrong and you'll still be fixing it yourself. Put the time in. You'll get there. If you're worried about the oil, drain it and measure a quart to put back in. NO MORE THAN 1.5 QUARTS (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on September 12, 2016) | ||
| Bhdooo |
I'll take pics when I'm with the bike again. I'm pretty sure I capped properly. How should I go about taking out the spring? I don't see how I could push it out from the top. Part # for the ring in the manual? As for the oil, I just don't understand how it would measure nothing if I know for a fact I put a little less than 1.5 qrts. I mean when I checked it, I had already ridden for a bit. I definitely agree with being wary of taking it to a stop. Hence my original plan of doing the common mods and diy stuff first, then taking it to someone that would know how the clutch, idle, throttle etc should feel when it's properly adjusted. To be honest I feel really stupid for forgetting to take pictures when I took the carb off the other day. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can go to Harbor fright and buy a cheap set of picks to pull the spring out. The fact that it doesn't come out with the idle mixture screw spells a problem. I don't have any access to manuals, I'm far far from home! (Thousand Oaks-sorry I didn't have time to go to HB). | ||
| Bhdooo |
Haha its all good. Maybe some other time you're in the area we can coordinate. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Got the spring out. Didn't fish out the oring and a washer flew away. Will one of my #4s fit or should i just hit up cvp for a washer and oring? http://imgur.com/a/BcbzX Here's my plugs (Message edited by bhdooo on September 13, 2016) | ||
| Bhdooo |
New o-ring and washer installed for air mix screw. I'm getting strange feelings of deja vu. Https://vid.me/Z3It I geared up and putted around the neighborhood for a bit. Wanted to see if the bike would start up again start again if shut off. It didn't. I would guess it was 20 minutes or so until I tried starting it again. After this second test tide is the start of this second video. I did to tighten the slack in the throttle to start the bike. But in the video after the run the bike idles without any of my input. Https://vid.me/DhJb I haven't not gotten the chance to try to start it again. I don't know if this is important or not but sometimes when I hold the starter too long it'll make a clicking type of noise with similar frequency to the rattling. Could the rattling be the primary or more likely the pegs? I am still not quite sure if the shift from neutral to first should feel how it does, but every other shift through 5 seems fine and dandy. Even 2 to 1. Anyways I included a picture of the sizes of replacement hardware for the air mix screw incase you can find it elsewhere. The last concern for this post includes the flyscreen mounts. I know it's bent but what is strange to me is that if I put the flyscreen in what I perceive to be centered on the headlight, the tach isn't behind the middle... https://imgur.com/a/3BQsT | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
So the bike doesn't turn over when it's hot? I was confused about that. I just thought it turned over, but didn't start. So clarify. Shifting and 2nd gear is "normal". For now anyway. We need to clear up your other issues first. The rattling is probably the footpegs and primary chain (from what I can hear-I'm not good at recorded sounds). Not an issue for now. Yes the speedo should be centered in the fly screen, in the curve provided for it. Brackets bend easy, but the brackets could have also shifted sideways-as in bothe brackets turned on the forks to the right. You can use the cutout in the top of the fork clamp to measure relativity to being even (I know what I mean, but that's the best I can do :-/ ) | ||
| Bhdooo |
It doesn't always start up again. Although in the video it just started up right away haha. The bike always tries to turn over. And I think theres a clicking noise that sometimes happens when I hold the start button too long. Is it possible that I'm not riding the bike enough that it's not fully warmed up when I recorded as well? I know that the clutch and primary are up next, as soon as I can get the bike to consistently start and idle without any input from me. Do I do the clutch adjustment, and then the primary? Primary itself seems pretty straightforward via the sound method. Unless I figure out the perfect amount of throttle to give the bike everytime I start it... Also where do you guys order spare parts like gaskets and that venturi ring. Buellsterparts? (Message edited by bhdooo on September 19, 2016) | ||
| Bhdooo |
Haven't had a chance to work on the bike lately, but... I think I still have the spacer for the primary adjustment. While I am able to shift fine I am wondering if I should do a full refresh, shifter pawl adjustment, new shoe guides, etc. I thought I had bookmarked some of EZs posts from around the web detailing what to shave, all the little parts etc. As well as a suggestion of swapping something to make future foot peg bracket removal quicker. Not going to lie, really tempted the next chance I can get to the bike, to just ride, do sound method, slowly collect all those little parts, and then do the entire thing but I'm guessing I should just wait to do everything at once just for insurance. I definitely feel this is a Schrödinger's cat situation I'm in right now though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just ride it! Do the primary adjust and worry about perfection later. You don't need a "full refresh" yet! | ||
| Bhdooo |
Still doesn't want to start when bike is warm. I'm guessing its either my needle or my air mix setting since upon throttle it bogs for a sec and then power picks up if 100% but 70-80% has no torque dip? |
