| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
24 ft lbs or 24 inch lbs? | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Xgecko |
24 yard pounds of course... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OK sarcasm done 24 inch pounds...while I understand the purpose behind the manual's procedure I find the result somewhat lacking | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/243953.html?1196478889 | ||
| Snuggles |
Looks like I stripped out one of the threads on my primary cover when I changed the primary fluid. I was hoping it was holding fine but I noticed my peg assembly getting a bit darker, and checked if the screw was still in there and its gone. It doesn't seem like its leaking to fast, but it obviously is leaking. Anyway, does anyone know what size thread the holes are for the clutch inspection cover? I know its a T27 but I don't know what thread that ends up being. I'm going to try and heli coil it. Also should I just go a head and put heli coils in the other two holes when I do the first one, it seems like these guys strip pretty easy. | ||
| Ezblast |
I've always used minimum torque setting there - if you follow that lead - you should be ok. Try another screw first, before heli-coiling the one hole - rarely it happens - sometimes just screws strip though - so check - use your red locktite as well. Heli-coil the one if necessary. EZ | ||
| Snuggles |
Do you know what size thread is on the T27's? I want to change to socket heads since I hate the torx screws. | ||
| Berkshire |
It's 1/4"-20 (UNC, aka "coarse thread"). The holes don't go all the way through - looks like threads are about 1/2" deep, so maybe 5/8" maximum length if the cover is about 1/8" thick around the screws. stainless steel button-heads are nice. | ||
| Snuggles |
Thanks for the help, ended up having to put the heli-coil in. Oh, and just for anyone else that's wondering, the 5/8" length are just a bit to long. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Tried to adjust the primary today on my 01. The spacer is still on so apparently no adjustment since manufactured. So I use the breaker bar and socket to loosen the bolt and the entire stack - bolt, spacer, and nut come out - spilling trany fluid on the floor. I reinserted the stack and managed to stop the flow. Now, however, I cannot get a wrench on the nut to allow me to back out the bolt enough to remove the spacer. The parts manual lists the nut as 1/2" but I cannot get my 1/2" wrench on the nut - even the 3/4" will not go above the spacer. I guess the 3 pieces have been together so long, they are acting as one. I even tried holding the nut with channel locks. Should I just take the entire thing out, let the fluid drain out and try to separate them where I can see them better? Anyone else have this problem on an older bike that has not been cared for? Thanks. Hil | ||
| Hld01blast |
Looks like the lock nut in 2001 was 7/8" with a 3/4" bolt on the primary adjuster. Got the spacer out and all is good. Just need to pick up a small adapter for my in-pound torque wrench. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
All years are the same. 1/2" probably refers to the bolt size, not the bolt head size. Be careful not to strip out the primary, its aluminum. Others have over torqued the lock/jam nut and stripped the cover out. Also, dont forget, 8 flats out, not 4 1/2 - 5 flats like the manual says or it will be too tight! | ||
| Hld01blast |
Gotcha - thanks for the clarification. Another quick question please. When I torqued the bolt to 24 in pounds, there was no space between it and the nut. When I backed out 8 flats - 1 1/3 turns - still no space. I ended up backing it out to just a bit further apart than when the spacer was in and tightened the lock nut. I have read that with the spacer in the primary is too night, so that is why I went a bit further out. I guess the question is how do you do the torque and still have more space between the 2 pieces than the spacer held? Thanks again. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Ditch the spacer-you have an item which you should never have seen-sadly too many do  In most cases the spacer gives way too much slack in the chain. Its just for a general factory adjustment and its pulled out at the 1000 mile service. I'm not sure what you mean by space between the bolt and the nut. There should (almost) always be space between the two. Are you over tightening it? 24 inch pounds is very little torque-its almost finger tight without using a wrench. After adjustment there is usually about 1/4" space between the nut and bolt. (This is not an exact adjustment, just my experience. Yours may be more, but certainly not more than the width of the spacer.) | ||
| Hld01blast |
I guess I could be overtightening it - I set the torque wrench to 24 in pounds and then wrenched the bolt until the wrench made the click sound. Then when I turned the bolt back out 8 flats, it was still against the nut - no space at all. When I tried to back it out further, both the bolt and nut turned until I grabbed the big wrench to hold the nut. When I had some space between the 2 - close to the width of the spacer (which I trashed when finishing the job) - I then held the bolt with the smaller wrench and tightened the nut.  | ||
| Reuel |
That's the way you're supposed to do it. Hold the bolt while you tighten the nut, once you've gone out 9 flats +/- from 24 in#. | ||
| Hld01blast |
I just took the bike for a quick ride. When giving it a decent amount of throttle, it runs great. But when at lower speeds, it bogs and acts a bit like it might die. I am thinking this means the primary is too loose as I have it backed out well more than 8-9 flats - like close to 1/2 inch. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Also, when starting with the new exhaust, a little smoke came out the pipe - is this normal with a new exhaust? Thanks. (Message edited by HLD01blast on April 12, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A loose primary chain wont cause your problem. It, like too tight a primary, will rob power at the higher speeds. Too tight a primary could cause your problem, but its more likely that the shims were installed wrong. I'd remove the shims and see how it performs. A new exhaust will smoke and smell, some. And I'll write this for future readers as it bears repeating dont change to many things at onceyou'll never know where the problem lies when you have one.not that anybody ever listens though  | ||
| Hld01blast |
I will describe how I did the needle shims - it was one area I was concerned about as I could never find a good pic of what the actual shimming looked like. Hopefully someone can tell me if I did it wrong. I took 2 washers that measured out the necessary thickness, removed the top of the carb, the diaphram, spring, spring foot (gray plastic thing) and needle - these last bits fell out in my hand so I was not clear as to their exact location but found a good diagram online that showed their locations. Anyway, with the needle in my hand, I installed the 2 washers over the head - they rested at the bottom of the needle - on the wide base. I then turned the needle point side down and installed in the hole in the bottom of the opening. Then inserted the gray thing and spring, seated the edge of the diaphram in the groove and installed the cover. My confusion was whether the needle end (the non-base end) was installed downward or pointing upward. If I pull the carb back off, which way should the shims go? The washers seemed like the enisde diameter was almost as big around as the base of the needle - could that affect anything? Thanks again for helping a newbie out. Hil | ||
| Reuel |
The outside diameter of the washers should match the base of the needle. When I did mine, I found a screw that had a head the same size as the needle base. I put the washers on, followed by a nut, and held the threaded end with a pair of pliers. I then took my trusty Craftsman Rotary Tool (Dremel relabeled) and adjusted the washers to match the screw, thereby matching the base of the needle. Yes, the needle points down. Did you redo your tension adjustment? From your previous description, you might have lost your set point. Remember--24 inch pounds, then 9 flats out, then hold the bolt still while you screw in the nut. If the bolt turns at all while you turn your nut, you've changed your adjustment. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Sounds like my washers are way too big then = the OD was way bigger than the needle base. I will get to Ace and see if I can find some #6s that I can alter to the right OD. Thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
#4 washers are the ones you need. Besides being available at ACE (probably), they are also readily available at a hobby shop, the kind that sells remote control cars, airplanes and models, etc. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks Gearhead! | ||
| Hld01blast |
Got everything apart again. Looks like the local Ace and Hobby Lobby are closed for Easter, so I will have to go washer hunting after work tomorrow. Did have one interesting observation when I removed the airbox cover. I followed EZ's instructions for removing the "lip" on the left side of the box and widening the hole up to the filter ring. I also rerouted the breather hose and installed a Fram fuel filter to the end for collection. Finally, I used a bicycle tire patch kit to cover the former breather hose hole inside the airbox. When I removed the cover just now, there was a bit of fuel in the lid that seemed to be coming from the upper right screw - the one with the spacer where the breather hose was previously attached. Is this normal after altering the airbox? Should I buy a new gasket for the box to carb connection? Thanks again. | ||
| Ezblast |
A little is fine, a lot is a tweeked float - will need to adjust float. EZ | ||
| Ylwblast03 |
Hil, I also used a washer that was too large when I first shimmed my needle. Using too large a shim (diameter-wise) allows the needle to float and lets way too much gas into the motor, therefore making it want to die. If you're seeing excess fuel in the airbox Im guessing it may have to do with your needle shimming error. Anyways, if you have a dremel or bench grinder i suggest just reducing the diameter of the shim you used. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks, sure hope that it is just the shimming that has caused the problem. I will change that first and see if the fuel in the airbox is eliminated. If not, guess I will be tapping the float and if that does not work, trying to adjust it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do not try to adjust the float. Its probably fine. Do that as a very last resort (unless you dropped the carb or otherwise abused it when you had it out). | ||
| Anonymous |
I did not touch the float when I had the carb out at all - had read how sensitive it is and stayed as far away from it as possible. That will definitely be my last resort. I think the correct diameter shims will correct the problem. I had on my shopping list #6 brass washers but my SO brought home a little box of washers from AutoZone. Since they measured the correct thickness, thought they might be OK - did not thick about the diameter at all. Oh well, guess you learn by doing, even if it is doing wrong. Thanks again for all the help. Posted by Hld01blast (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 13, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Others will learn from yours, as they've learned from mine, as they've learned from EZ's and so on! We ALL make them. |
