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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Oil the "Viscous" Truth » Archive through October 24, 2008 « Previous Next »

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Berkshire
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been wondering what that stainless-steel looking tube is - you know, that one that loops around at the very front of the motor near the oil pressure switch...

I figure it's most likely either oil going from the pressure pump to the filter, or from the scavenge pump to the tank, or maybe from the filter to the engine - anybody know for sure?
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It would be the pressure side, since it's feeding the pressure switch.
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Berkshire
Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 04:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So that line would go from the filter to the engine, if the pressure switch is seeing the pressure that's being supplied to the engine.

I've heard the normal place for an oil cooler is between the scavenge pump and the tank, so you have a tank of cool oil, but I wonder if putting one between the filter and the engine would have advantages - hot oil might be easier to pump, so less power loss and less gear wear. Also, hot oil might not loose as much pressure going through the filter, so more flow to the engine.

Hmmm...

Then again, on a Blast, a tank of cooled oil might result in a stiffer frame!
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Wardo
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

URGENT!!! BLASTER IN NEED OF ASSISTANCE!!!!

I just found out my oil is crazy low, and have no idea what kind to put in. I made it to the store before they closed and got 3 kinds. 5w30, 10w30, and 10w40. Whats the best one to put in? SAVE ME BLASTERS!!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

10w40 is the one to use, only because you live in Michigan and winter is coming. Otherwise 20w-50 is the one to use for late Spring-Summer-early Fall(cold states only).

Winter months can use 10w30 or 10w40 (see manual), but it will be used rapidly in the warm weather or if you actually run the bike long enough for it to get fully warmed up.
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Wardo
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool. Thanks a ton. Was scared i wasnt going to be able to ride tomorrow. Nice weather for 4 more days and in Michigan that is something to jump on. Ill go put in the 10w40 and make sure first thing next season i change out the oil properly. thanks again!
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Wardo
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh p.s. Its synthetic. Is that a problem?
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Synthetic is Good. In fact, we all recommend it! 10W40 is good for colder days. If you ride a lot around 40 degrees or colder, 10W40 is what you want. If you're an all-season rider, change your oil twice a year. 20W50 for warmer weather and 10W40 for colder weather. The Blast is not very good in the snow, though. Guess how I know!
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Wardo
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lol, i can almost picture that. I wonder if i could somehow get some chains on my tires. lol
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those who would race on the ice use pieces of metal in their tires. Studded motorcycle snow tires? There should be a market, since the state that has the most motorcycles, per capita, is Alaska.
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Thump
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went down to the local shop and they had a 'snowmobile'swing arm for the rear tire. A chain to the rear sprocket that had another chain transferr
ing the power to the snowmobile traction system. I will try to get some pics of it this weekend.
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Wardo
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Now were talkin. I loved winter until i got a bike. Im depressed already.
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Thump
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Back on topic...

"2 quarts if you change the oil filter. Fill just a little over 1.5 quarts, heat up engine then add about another .25 quarts. Run a little more check oil level again, you will either be right on or need to add just a touch more."

That was posted in the archives a while ago. So I just changed the oil/filter but put in a quart and about 1/3. Ran for 1/2 hour then stopped to check. I ended up needing to add just under the second quart. Just before I turned off the engine I thought I heard a small knocking.

Am I just being paranoid or did I not run enough oil the first time? Could I have harmed my baby?
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Reuel
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1 1/3 is a bit not enough. Instructions said 1.5. I usually just dump in most of the second quart and I'm good. That knocking is the paranoid portion of your brain. I once had the oil in my Blast low enough that it took most of a quart to get it up to the mark, and it's still fine. Don't worry.
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Thump
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The post just below the one I quoted had talked about putting too much in, so I wanted to be cautious.
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Johnnymac
Posted on Monday, October 13, 2008 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Too much oil is no biggie either, at least for the engine. The excess will just blow by and into your air cleaner making a fine mess out of your airbox and coating the outside of it, along with the right foot peg bracket, with a film of oil.
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Wardo
Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I heard its bad to just let your engine run without riding. Something about being bad for gaskets and whatnot. My oil situation is fine now. Got it all sorted now that the weather is crap. Effin winter.......
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 01:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes. Its bad to let an engine sit and idle for extended periods. Also bad to run an engine at rpms above idle for any length of time without being under 'load'.
Not bad for gaskets, bad for internal parts.

As one example; some engines have a low rpm engine oil 'idle' circuit. Which means the same oil gets recirculated over and over at idle, which will eventually overheat and breakdown the oil.
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Jetlee
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 07:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How's this oil?
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericartic le.do?categoryId=9021705&contentId=7040548

What Castrol product(s) should I run in my primary/trans? I get Castrol, free, so just taking advantage.

Thanks!!
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Jetlee
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericartic le.do?categoryId=82915494&contentId=7036193

or the Hypoy?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like the RS v-twin would work in both engine and trans. I'd contact Castrol directly and ask. Since they developed it for V-twins and its says "excellent wet clutch performance", they should know if its comparable/compatible to/with HD synthetic.

The 75w-90 gear oil is suspect to me. I've used Redline 75w-90 for years (as recommended by Redline to replace the Sport trans fluid), but I do not know if the Castrol is the same. Some gear oils will degrade the stator wiring and clutch plates. Again, I'd ask Castrol.

Never use non-synthetic in the trans/primary unless its recommended by HD/Buell. Some engine oil or gear fluid synthetics are also not compatible.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS Welcome Jetlee!
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Jetlee
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey thanks!

I assume, since you didn't mention different for the primary, it uses the same as the trans?

I'll get in contact with Pig Trail and Castrol in the morning.
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have two places for oil. 1: Engine. 2: Primary. The transmission gets its lubrication from the primary.
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Jetlee
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah, ok. That's what I thought but the parts guy at the dealer was saying "use this synthetic in all 3 cases", so I was like, wtf?
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Fast1075
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 06:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just finished installing a new Energy One brand clutch in mine...the tech data that came with the kit said to not use synthetic oil....I called and spoke with them about that since synthetic is the normal recommended type.

They said the warning is about using the Castrol synthetic oil...it is appearantly so slick the plates will slip...He said as far as he knows the Castrol is the only one with that problem.

As a side note, I tried the castrol synthetic in my slider clutch equipped dragbike some time ago...it didn't fry from slippage, but my data recorder identified that the clutch was slipping and I lost considerable trap speed...I went back to Mobil 1 and the slippage ceased.

The issue with the oils damaging the stator is all about the sulphur content...sulphur kills copper and other copper alloys...the wrong lube in an automobile manual trans for example will eat up the brass syncro rings...
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Jetlee
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, I called the dealer, finally. Talked to a few different guys to get at least a couple opinions. After hearing the bike was out of warranty, they quit pushing HD's Syn3 and said the Castrol V-Twin 20W-50 would work great, use in all cases, don't use gear oil, it shouldn't have any ill effects on anything including the clutch.

It was pretty well same thing from all.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mobil 1 15/50 - anything else is a waste - use it for top and bottom - lol
EZ
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Evilbetty
Posted on Friday, October 24, 2008 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This stuff?
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/ Mobil_1_15W-50_.aspx

And just to confirm once again. This should be used as the engine oil and primary fluid?

For all seasons?
(from 45 to 100 degrees for me)
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, October 24, 2008 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes - the holy of holy - lol - top and bottom - nothing but success stories with it - in conjunction with their filter - it is premium protection.
EZ
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