| Author | Message | ||
     Fahren |
EZ, Gearhead, what are you guys basing your fork oil weight against? I can't seem to figure out what the stock HD "type E" oil weight is. I was thinking going up to 7.5 or even 10 (Amsoil shock therapy 10) would be a good idea for rider load of about 180-190. Stock forks - no valving, no shims. (Message edited by fahren on July 20, 2010) (Message edited by fahren on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Ezblast |
Stock is 10. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you're changing fork oil now is the time to ask if you like the way it handles and rides. Some minor adjustments can really improve things. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Anybody else having a problem with NOT receiving emails of Badweb posts? | ||
| Sycho |
Anybody else having a problem with NOT receiving emails of Badweb posts? Do you mean like a notification of a reply to a post one may have made? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. All Badweb posts are (were) sent to my e-mail address. I dont have to visit Badweb to read them. | ||
| Conwaybrew |
Not getting notifications right now either. . . | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks. Maybe its not just me and my seriously disturbed MAC! | ||
| Crackhead |
I was finally able to take the bike out last night for a 2 mile test ride. It felt great to be rolling on 2 wheels again. Unfortunately due to a deployment to the gulf, i will not be able to ride the bike fore 60 days starting next week. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ridus interuptus  But at least you got it back together and you know it runs before you leave. | ||
| Crackhead |
I am glad i got to test the motor out before I left. I think i am going to get one of dan's superboot intakes to help complete the striped bike look. The motor has a slight knock, i am thinking either rod at the crank or the wrist pin was tight going back in so maybe piston slap. This motor is just a temp motor and my first and super cheep try at re/disassembling. | ||
| Swampy |
Make sure you lifters are fully pumped up, sometimes it takes a while. I can tell you that to put a wrist pin bushing in you will need to get a tool to push it out, push it in and ream it. They are kind of expensive to buy, I rented one from a very cool "Old Skool" V-Twin shop once(I am going back there some day to see if they will sell it to me as it was really a great tool and made things really easy). The wrist pin should move freely but not rock at all in the connecting rod when you are through as there is only like .0005 clearance, which is small! The big end bearing should not let the rod rock out of alignment from center. What Gulf are you being deployed to? Mexico or Arabian? | ||
| Crackhead |
Mexico. i had to gently tap the wrist pin back into place. | ||
| Swampy |
You have to be carefull when you do that as you can damage the lower(big end) bearing. What happens is the wrist pin slides back and forth in the piston and pushes up against the wrist pin clip, the clip wears a lip in the piston and makes it difficult to remove/insert the wrist pin. It is a good idea to remove that lip by either carefully scraping it away with a sharp instrument or if you still have the reamer for the bushing, run that through the piston to remove the built up lip. Good Luck, Be Safe in the Gulf! | ||
| Luvdathump |
grrr i replaced the seal in n out like nothing. the hardest part was deciding what socket to use to tap the seal in. however i was about to take my boy on a short ride through the country side, but when i realeased the clutch to take off... nothing. i broke the belt, not sure how because i rode it home from work just fine. i didnt try n take off fast or anything just kinda wierd. the worst part is its the middle of summer and i will have to wait a week for it to come in. (sigh) the even crappier part is that i was thinking that i should order one because i just crested 9000 miles. grrr sorry just needed to vent. steven | ||
| Jfad |
ok so i rejetted my carb and the bike runs like hell any time i roll on the throttle its goes to shut down any suggestions? i tried going back to stock and it still runs bad. | ||
| Videoninja |
Jfad- Check your boot it could have been damaged when removing the carb | ||
| Crackhead |
Boot then check the diaphram if you removed the top of the carb | ||
| Jfad |
Thanks ill check the boot. I checked the diaphragm it appears to be ok but ill double check it as well. | ||
| Bon |
Quick question from a long-time reader, first-time poster: I've read quite a bit about everyone's carb mods, EZ and Gearheader in particular. Just to clarify: Are you running your carbs with just the M2 stack and the outerwears prefilter? I've seen posts before about getting a '135-b' filter to compliment a prefilter, but I called outerwears today and the 135-B is now a '10-1267' part number and is a prefilter. I currently have an M2 stack and an outerwears '12-1267-01' prefilter sitting on my workbench, and I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row before I start this modification. Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
12-1267-01 is correct and is a filter for a stack - lol - add to stack via hose clamp, add stack with carb intake gasket, and use stock max torque values for the screws. Enjoy! EZ | ||
| Bon |
Fantastic. Thank you so much, it's an honour to receive advice from the Buell Blast master! | ||
| Themagster |
Amen. BWB THUMPer forum: The Holy Grail for any Blast owner. My appreciation to this site is never-ending. They have been with me for 83,000 miles of Blasting, I too am honored and lucky to have access to those always willing so quick to reply. Just saying thanks never seems to be enough... | ||
| The4ork |
anywhere sell just the headgasket? and in different widths? ive got the cometic rocker gaskets, but have the head off, had the stock headgasket on it... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
e-bay or the dealer. They do usually come in a kit, but they can be bought seperately. pt# 16770-84D which is a Sportster number, which is also listed for the XB and updated to # 16770-84E So whether its for a Sportster, Blast or XB, it'll work (if that helps). By width you mean thickness? Yes, but thats usually in the style of gasket and you'll pay more for the thinner gaskets. Base gaskets do come in specific sizes (aftermarket). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cylinder-Head-Gaske t-1200-2-pk-84-2008-Sportster-Evo-_W0QQcmdZViewIte mQQhashZitem53e255bcf8QQitemZ360279555320QQptZMoto rcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_845wt_941 (they also have the base gaskets) You might also try Badweb sponsors such as American Sport Bike | ||
| Cliffburton |
Try NRHS. Thats where I got my Cometic.Ask for Dan.I think the factory gasket is .050,I bought the .030. | ||
| Buellistic |
Always use the part with the "E" or highest HIGH CASE letter as this indicates the "LATEST PART NUMBER" ... This means it was UP-DATED for a very good reason !!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bon: Welcome! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Or try Revolution Performance http://www.revperf.com/. They ARE a Badweb sponsor!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Either a D or E gasket will work just fine. So dont spend all day just trying to find an E when a D may be in stock or start thinking that you used the wrong one and it will fail. |
