| Author | Message | ||
     Vicenzajay |
Those of you with lots of Blast time...I ran into a weird issue this evening. Took the Blast for about a 50 mile twisty ride...she ran great (and I'm glad I had heated gear). As was my plan before departing, I returned and drained the oil for the winter oil change. All went well. I put in the new oil - measured almost to the ounce of what I had drained, etc. Buttoned everything up and started the bike. She ran well - no leaks, but about 20-30 seconds after starting (idle already down as the bike was warm), the oil light came on....a bit flickery, but on. I'm an aviator - I shut the motor down fairly quickly. I checked the oil level (obviously not ideal as the bike really hadn't been running for a bit - seemed about right for conditions (just touching dipstick). Started her again - again, all went well for about 30 seconds (no oil light - bike sounds great) - then the light came on again. I touched the throttle a bit, and the light went more flickery to off at higher RPM. But when the motor was brought back to idle, the light came back on. What's up?!?! I may ride hard, but I baby this bike like you read about maintenance-wise. Could this be some air in the system? What's the next step for troubleshooting? Thanks in advance - - - Updated - - - So I put the bike up into the chock (where it lives when not in use) and checked the oil pressure sensor line/fitting, etc. Then I started her up again... Can't replicate the issue - light goes out on crank and stays out....hmmm...did it twice - no light at all after crank (either with some rpm on the throttle or at idle). Wonder if I had a momentary air block in one of the lines....? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nothing to worry about. Air, sticky oil pressure switch, too thin oil.... Since you played with the oil pressure switch-the wire is attached and the switch isn't 'loose' around the connection or in any other way? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Erik, I don't think so (switch being loose, etc.) - it's no different than when I first got her - about 11K miles ago. Thanks much for the re-assurance...I was positive nothing was "critically wrong" unless the pump chose that exact few minutes to completely die (which oil pumps tend to not do in aircraft - they tend to become erratic and deteriorate over a period of time...some time frames shorter than others). This is my winter oil change - so I move from 20W-50 to 15W-50 (synthetic)...I don't think it's too thin (this will be the 3rd winter I've done it). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, not enough to make a difference. Probably just waiting for the pressure to build up again after filling everything up with oil. Typical common scenario with oil changes on just about anything. ....and it's always a nice idea to fill up the oil filter with oil before putting it on. That will help avoid the oil light panic!!! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Agreed - I do that as well (about 4 ounces into the filter before installation). I think that this time it just drained super, super well. The engine was quite warm (an hour of spirited riding), and I let it drain for probably 30 minutes - i.e. it was dry (no drops whatsoever coming out). I was doing a few other things as well, so it took more time to get back to the bike. I'm wondering if that didn't create quite a bit of "air space" within the system. | ||
| Sova007 |
Hello. I'm new here. I got 2001 Buell Blast and I need some advice. My oil light is not coming off when I turn the key. It's off all the time. I try wire, new oil pressure sensor, different speedo but the oil light is off. ANY suggestion where is problem? | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you looked at your oil pump gear in your cam case? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Good question! But I was confused by the post. Is the light not coming on, not going off? I can't tell from the post if the light is on, off and when? Need a little clarification of what is going on. Welcome anyway! | ||
| Sova007 |
when I turn the key on the light will not coming on at all. See attachment  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you ground the wire going to the oil pressure switch, the light should come on. If it does come in, the switch is bad. If it doesn't come on, you have a break in the wire OR the oil light is burned out in the gauge OR there is no power to the oil light. It's pretty simple and it seems like you took the right steps. Go back over it. Keep us posted. Thanks. | ||
| Jetlee |
This happens when starting the engine immediately after changing the oil AND filter. When changing the filter, you allow air into the pressure passages. You have to let the bike sit for a short while to allow the air to travel up and out of the passages, otherwise the system does not fully pressurize. Usually if you take time to put away tools and clean up your work area, that's enough time for the air to bleed up and out; but if you just drop everything and start it right up, the issue is present. This also happens if your drop your bike to one side. Stand it upright, let it sit for a few minutes, then fire it back up. -Edit- This was for the original poster. I didn't notice the topic had changed slightly. (Message edited by JetLee on May 04, 2016) | ||
| Sova007 |
The wire is ok, I test it. The oil light bulb is working, I test that too. I guess the previous owner did something with the previous oil change. So what should I do to fix it? Thanks | ||
| Jetlee |
Your switch is stuck, replace it. (Message edited by JetLee on May 04, 2016) | ||
| Sova007 |
Is there any way where I can buy brand new? I have another switch but it does same thing on both. They are both used. | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you checked your oil gear in your cam case? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the oil pump drive gear is wasted, the dipstick won't show any oil (until you have about 4-5 quarts in). | ||
| Sova007 |
I ordered new switch from https://shop.newcastlehd.com. Hope it is just the switch, I should get it by Tuesday. | ||
| Sova007 |
New switch and problem solved. Thank you guys  |
