| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Everything in. Top of tube to fluid level. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
10w is stock. Lighter weight oil is the way to go IF you've got the modified fork internals for it. But if you don't, then the heavier weight is the only way to slow things down. Again, preference is the key. A nice stiff front end is glorious in the twisties, but hit a lot of bumps, dips or uneven surfaces and it can work against you. It's also really hard on the wrists! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Alright - need some help. I popped off the plastic fork tube caps only to see two metal rings that are in there very tightly. They are solid rings with an indentation in the center. How do I get into the tubes to pump/replace oil and place shims? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Also - trying to change the front brake pads. Got the mounting bolts removed, but can't get the caliper off the front rotor. How does this work? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Disregard brake caliper question - sorted.... | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Okay - next question - how do I get the pistons to relax so I can replace the pads? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Going to Ace to get C-clamps for the pistons....finger pressure just won't do it (I relieved the pressure at the cylinder and subtracted some fluid already). This is turning out to be a harder job than anticipated. Yay. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Got the brake pads replaced and installed. Working great. If anyone new wants some tips, let me know and I'll tell you what I messed up learning how to do it. A C-clamp is necessary to contract the pistons to gain enough room for the new pads...having that would have saved me 90 minutes or so. Pulling the pin on the pads is the FIRST thing you do....then removing the caliper becomes very easy. Do not overfill the cylinder due to the fact that the level is a bit lower than you'd like - also due to the fact that your old pads are well reduced in thickness. Install the new pads first - after contracting the pistons to do so, you'll probably figure out that you have plenty of fluid in the system (ask me how I found that out). Don't be afraid to ask more questions - I'm not too proud to tell you all my mistakes. That being said, it's done and the new pads are doing well. I'll test them on a long commute tomorrow. Now it's time for the forks. Still need to figure out how to get the top seats out... (Message edited by vicenzajay on March 24, 2014) | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, If you could give a few more details on changing the front brake shoes It would be helpful to me. Kenny G | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Kenny, Of course: 1. I put the bike up on a triple tree stand, but as long as you put the brake caliper (black assembly bolted to the forks) in between the spokes and not on the part with the air post you can leave the bike on the ground. 2. Carefully remove the cover screw (straight screw) covering the brake pad pin. This is the aft most screw down towards the bottom of the caliper assembly facing outwards. Screwdriver is fine. 3. Using a hex wrench unscrew the pin (it's recessed behind the cover screw you just took off) being careful to keep your hand underneath the brake assembly as the inboard pad will drop out as soon as the pin is clear. 4. At some point the pin's threads will run out and you can pull it out - the outboard brake pad resting against the brake pistons (big steel circle things) will be free. 5. Using a hex wrench, unscrew the two main bolts holding the brake assembly to the forks. 6. When the final main bolt is free, the whole brake assembly will come off the rotor rather easily. Both pads should be out of the caliper at this point. 7. Have something handy to rest the caliper on - it shouldn't just hang from the brake hose. 8. At this point clean everything with brake cleaner and wipe off quickly. 9. Here's the fun part - using a C-clamp (recommend a 2 1/2 inch by 2 1/2 inch C-clamp) compress both brake pistons. I used a 1 1/4 inch wide metal washer with a very small center hole to place on each piston as a surface to place the C-clamp flat head screw on. Just screw the C-clamp until the brake piston is seated - it doesn't have to be flush - just pretty close. 10. At this point also take a look at your brake cylinder - since the pistons probably haven't been compressed this much for a while as your brake pad is worn, there is a good chance brake fluid will be leaking from the cover edges of your reservoir. 11. Take the outboard brake pad (which one will be obvious as the hole for the pin will only line up with the correct brake pad and the surface facing inboard). Put it in place and use the pin to push through and secure it in place...don't push the pin all the way through. Note - use some blue loktite on the threads of the pin. 12. Put the caliper on the bike - I used one of the main bolts just fingered on there to hold the caliper - and then place the other brake pad up into place from the inboard side of the rotor. This will make sense once you start this process and remove the old pads. 13. Now run the pin all the way through the other pad's retaining hole and then use the hex wrench to snug it up in the recess. 14. Now put some blue loktite on the cover screw's threads and use the straight screwdriver to snug that up as well. 15. Now take the main bolt you haven't put back on the forks, put some blue loktite on it and hand screw it into place. 16. Remove the other main bolt that was hanging the caliper in place while you placed the last brake pad and do the same (blue loktite and finger tight). 17. Torque both bolts to 20 ft. lbs. per the manual (18-22 is the spec). 18. Check everything, including your reservoir for fluid level) - then pump the brakes multiple times to get the action firm again. 19. Done - enjoy not having paid a mechanic an hour's labor and parts premium plus tax, etc. :-) (Message edited by vicenzajay on March 25, 2014) | ||
| Vicenzajay |
For the experts - I really need help figuring out how to "push down" on the B spring seats to get into the fork internals. Mine won't budge - they are as firm as molded steel. Can't replace fork oil or do the shim thing unless I can get in there....any hints/advice? | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, Thank you very much for the procedure to replace the front brake pads that will save me a lot of grief. If you ever change the exhaust to a V&H I have a procedure that I wrote and posted on Buell Riders Online. If you ever work on the clutch, I have pics and could write a procedure for installing the parts from Service Bulletin B-101, including the corrected part numbers. Kenny | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Kenny G, Sounds good - I have a V&H on the bike now, but at some point I'm going to purchase and put a brand new one one (the one I have is old, completely unpacked, and might as well be a straight pipe). Would love those procedures...:-) On the clutch - I'm going to pester EZ for a recommendation for a better replacement clutch and completely replace it at some point. So your experience would be great. That being said, have you done the shift pawl adjustment? If so, I will need to do that at some point sooner - perhaps here in 2-3K miles. Would love the procedure for that as well. Jay | ||
| Ezblast |
Re-build using the Energy-One kit. Enjoy! EZ | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Again - any suggestions/tips/advice on how to dislodge the spring seat in the forks? Without being able to depress the seats, I am out of luck with trying to change fork oil and shim the fork. They are not budging for me at all. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You do have all the weight off the front forks? A large screwdriver (prybar) hooked under the handlebars and a spacer (large nut, washers, etc.) on top of the 'spring seat' and use the leverage to push down. If for some reason there is a lot of corrosion, some time with penetrating oil is suggested (but that would be hard to believe). Also a tap with hammer and punch may dislodge it. WARNING: the stop ring/circlip is VERY EASY TO LOSE and harder to replace. If you find yourself struggling, find a different approach. Stock spring tension can be compressed without leverage. Add spacers and it becomes a lot more difficult. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Yep - it was on a triple tree stand. That's why it was frustrating. I'm wondering if these forks are already shimmed - given the difficulty and amount of compression force. I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are describing with a "large screwdriver and spacer" with regard to using leverage to push it down...or maybe I get it - use the handlebars as the fulcrum for something large to push down on something placed atop the spring seat? I might try the hammer and punch first and go from there. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, you get it! It may be already shimmed. If it is BE CAREFUL. Contents will be under extreme pressure! Wear safety glasses and find the circlip ASAP! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: pistons can be retracted into the caliper using a large screwdriver/prybar. You just have to be carefull not to apply all force in an effort to bend the rotor! Sorry I haven't been around much, but it really makes me happy that other Blasters are stepping up to help out  | ||
| Vicenzajay |
So if it's been shimmed, even with the weight completely off the front wheel the circlips will go flying? Wow...that's disappointing - makes me not even want to change out the fork oil, even though I'm sure it needs it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, they won't go flying if you are prepared for it. In other words, if there's a chance you'll slip with the leverage, find another way or get a helper. It's just a very common mistake to have fork internals get launched. Anybody who does more than one set of forks, especially high spring preload forks, is going to have it happen. Once you're sure the fork plug is moving (compressing the spring) and you can see the very thin snap ring, remove the circlip/snap ring/stop ring with a pick or screwdriver and place it in a very secure location. If you slip with your leverage and it is shimmed, parts will fly. If you haven't secured the snap ring, it will be lost. Really, it's not that hard or risky. But (but), lose that stop ring and you are screwed. well, not completely, but it's a lot of work or trouble if you lose it) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, fork springs are almost always compressed at least a little. | ||
| Ezblast |
A large C-clamp works well. EZ | ||
| Vicenzajay |
So the bottom of the C-clamp goes where? perhaps braced at the bottom of the upper triple tree? Sounds like a good idea. I put penetrating oil on the seats today - will get the bike back up on stands tomorrow and try to at least get the seats to move with a hammer/punch. KennyG - I'm taking pictures | ||
| Vicenzajay |
That's it. I'm giving up on the forks... Absolutely ridiculous...24 hours with penetrating oil (and other stuff for a week leading up to that), and not a single budge with hammer and punch. This is with the bike up on jacks and no weight on the forks. There goes the white flag - this bike can just run until the forks self-disintegrate. Two weekend days gone from my life without anything to show for it. rant over. Sorry, KennyG - won't have any pictures or advice for this procedure. I'm seriously just going to put the superbrace on and forget about the forks for the rest of the time I own the bike unless they choose to fail completely for some reason. | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, Don't give up yet. If you have a Buell friendly Harley shop anywhere near you, ride in and show the service manager what you are trying to do, and he will probably show you how to do it without charging you. And you can always ask if there is a charge before he takes a look. Kenny G | ||
| Ezblast |
Use a c-clamp - 12" - tripple tree to top of fork. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry jay. Missed your post for some reason. Sometimes it's best just to move on. Get a brace. Get a steering damper (eventually). Still here to help. | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Erick, What brand of steering damper do you recommend and supplier, also the fork brace? Kenny G | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Erik, No worries - I'll take you up on the help offer. I'm considering getting the double head clamp per the video on BRO that KennyG coordinated. That may do the trick. That being said, I am going to just move on for a bit, though - I'll tackle the fork oil later this year, perhaps this Fall. The Superbrace gets here this week, and I'll be home to install it this weekend. On the ride down today I really paid attention to the front forks, and honestly they are very firm. I'm pretty much certain these have already been shimmed at some point in their life as the action is quite solid. Speaking of the ride down - it rocked. Sunny day...bike was running like a top with the Brisk plug. I was hauling saddle bags and everything for work, but the bike would just "go" to 80-85 mph for passing without a thought. Really happy with the way the bike is running in general right now. |
