| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
IXU27 is the one you want or DCPR9EIX - the other heat range is too hot. The Brisk spark plug is a new player in general sparkplugs - they used to only make them for exotic cars - they are a bit less expensive and considered a better quality product - here is the info on them http://buellridersonline.com/forum/showthread.php? t=8992&highlight=Brisk I know I get carried away when we talk about Blast performance, but it's really bad now that I'm in the middle of my rebuild - you know I am going to one up myself, or why rebuild - lol EZ | ||
| Sycho |
Lol, it's because your possessed by the Dark Side EZ. | ||
| Sycho |
Lol, it's because your possessed by the Dark Side EZ. By the way how is your rebuild coming? | ||
| 1313 |
I'm trying to help a colleague fix her Blast. It's the 2nd time since she's owned it that the exhaust has broken. From my experience with exhausts on twin cylinder Buell's the parts look to me to be worn. The illustration in the parts book, however, almost makes me think that they're supposed to be this way. I advised her to get some new muffler grommets, which - surprise, surprise - are on backorder! So, can anyone tell me if the parts below are OK to use, or whether they truly should be replaced? And if they do need to be replaced, if you know of someplace that might actually have them rather than wait for them to come off backorder that would be great. The whole collection:  Spacers - it sure looks like there should be some rubber between the 2 spacers, but you tell me...  Here are the grommets. I know one picture kind of sucks, but if the one in the good pic appears worn...   Thanks in advance for any insight that you can provide! | ||
| Ezblast |
1313 - looks like some hi temp rtv was added to the metal spacers to stop rattle, otherwise they look good to go - if the rubber bushings are not too compressed - when assembled the rubber should completely encase the metal spacers. Sycho - I'm still working mainly on details before the engine dis-assembly and rebuild - not that that will be hard - for the most part just moving one set of parts over to the other engine, but with new gaskets, piston, rings, pin and clip, ratio-rocker-arms,lifters, and a very customized carb and exhaust happening - it's the prep for all the other details that I must attend to on this former stocker that is the real time consumer. While recuperating from knee surgery - will dedicate self to painting parts and tank body work to prep for professional painting. Wrapping up exhaust build up tonight - will be a tad loud, but I'll be using disc tech to tone it down. It will be part of my painting projects in the next few weeks - will have to sneak into oven for curing though - probably have to burn some eggs to hide the odder - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm pretty sure Blasts will start going up in price soon - better enjoy them while you can afford them! http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Articl es/Production-Numbers EZ | ||
| Willy_j |
Where can I find those exhaust grommets and spacers? | ||
| Ezblast |
Stock item - any HD store that sells parts, use part book part numbers. Nice thing about the Blast is that because it shares a lot of parts with the twins - part availability is still a go - 10 years from now - not so much - lol EZ | ||
| Blueblast |
Saw this interesting chopper Blast listed on C/L: <http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcd/4339744073. html> | ||
| Ezblast |
Not bad at all - get you to the bar and back. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You'll need to check other things on the exhaust. Is it astock exhaust? There is also a specific procedure on installation. | ||
| Saxplayer11 |
Hey guys not long ago I mentioned an oil leak on my blast. It is not a huge leak but it is still noticeable I am putting up a picture and I was going to see if you could help me figure out what I need to replace. The leak is occurring right where the engine and transmission come together. So I was assuming it's some type of seal. Thanks  I can't seem to get the image uploaded from my phone so I will have to try other means, for now that's all I have to go off of. | ||
| Bumblebee |
There are a bunch of Blasts available right now on eBay. All have a single common problem, won't shift into third gear. There were ex riders edge bikes, all look clean, pretty low miles. Any idea what's going on with these? I have an idea what might be causing the issue - but any insight would be helpful. | ||
| Rex |
Flat Track Night, Yes it's that time of year again! Come join up with some of the biggest names and legends in the history of motorcycle flat track racing. When: Monday night April 7th @ 6:30 pm Where: Fremont Honda Kawasaki 41315 Albrea st. Fremont, Ca. 94538. Right on the frontage road of 880 between Stevenson blvd and Auto Mall pkwy. Easy to find and get to. Unlimited parking. Bring your race bike, street tracker or café bike and show it off. You've heard about it so don't miss it this year. Leigh Anderson from Helmet House will have a booth at the Flat Track Night. She handles Shoei and HJC Hemet's and a number of lines of apparel. This might be a good time to buy a helmet or an accessory. Check out the new stuff. REX Thanks for your hard work Bill. | ||
| Swampy |
Hi Bumblebee, There could be alot wrong or a little wrong, usually the shift pawl needs to be adjusted. Alot of those Blasts get dropped, so there is a 50% chance that they will be dropped on their left side and knock things out of adjustment. Also they are being used by people that have never ridden let alone ever used a clutch, so the Blast experiences more than their fair share of shifter abuse. The good news is, the shifter pawl adjustment is not too tough a proceedure (provided you have a 200 ft lb torque wrench) and the Blast transmission is very stout and durable(Think 40 HP Sportster Transmission on whatever the HP is on a Blast) so the transmission can handle more than double than what the Blast can put out. The down side is if a shift fork is bent then that would require splitting the engine case, but you would have problems with 4th gear also. Sorry, I'm one beer into it and just couldn't stop! | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur!!! | ||
| Willy_j |
Having troubles with the auto enrichener. Hooked up 12 volts to it and it operated like it should. Tested pin one and two with a volt meter, 9.5 volts. Not enough to operate auto enrichener. I tried it with the top of the carb off so I could watch it. The 12 volt lead works as I used a volt meter between it and ground on engine with 12.88 volts. Jumped a ground wire to the negative pin and enrichener functioned properly. Suggestions? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Hey guys - posting this here as well. I put it in the "new guys" section, but that wasn't the best place to put it. Sorry about that. Figured here was better for "general help". So.... I rode the Blast down to work today (80 miles or so). It ran like absolute crap. Keep in mind I'm meticulous about the bike - so I'll try to list the symptoms and the work done lately. What was happening: - the bike was surging or missing noticeably in fourth or fifth gear when under load/acceleration. - the bike sounded "different"...perhaps a bit more engine noise in general toward the front of the engine (front of the bike) in general. - deceleration noises were more "gurgly" and wet sounding than normal. Some pretty good backfires happened as well, but there were only a few of them. - Engine in general felt sluggish and clunky What I have done to the bike recently: - two weeks ago replaced NGK iridium plug with Denso racing plug. - last week replaced rear tire - during last week re-torqued axle nuts to spec both fore and aft. Really nothing else has been done to the bike since the last oil/filter change. I'm tempted to: - Replace racing plug with NGK plug just to see if something's wrong with the racing plug - Take off air box and check carb "system" (i.e. AF mixture screw and also inspect boot) - Perhaps even open float bowl and make sure jets aren't clogged Mind you - the bike has been running fine. It sat for maybe 2 1/2 weeks at one point, but it has been THE commuter for me over the past 7000 miles. I'm wondering if I got a bad tank of gas from somewhere or if there's somewhere that water may have gotten in the system. If anyone has experienced these types of symptoms and has some suggestions - they're most welcome! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Another thought I had was maybe the auto-enrichener on my bike is also having issues. It won't idle now without help when completely cold. It will start just fine and do the high idle "thing" and then come down in RPM - but then it will just lower and die unless I feed it manually. Wonder if the AE is having issues and is not shutting off on the road - also contributing to the high 4th and 5th gear load issues described above? | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you blue loktite the bottom of solinoid to ceramic? And dry pointed solinoid up? Check/replace wire - it must be tight on both sides - with AutoZone pt # 15N Could just be bad gas as well or water in float bowl. EZ | ||
| Vicenzajay |
EZ, Yes - I followed your directions on how to install the Denso racing plug (re: locktite, etc.). The wire I have is the Autozone wire - it was new 7 months ago. Local Autozone here where I work is out of stock. I've ordered the Brisk BOR10LGS racing plug per the BRO thread...it should be at the house this weekend. To get me home I'm going to get a stock 10R12(A) plug from the Harley dealer today and install it for the ride. | ||
| Willy_j |
Looks like my troubles might be the ignition module. Only 2050 miles on it. 2007 and has sat for three years. I can only find one online for $180.00. Are there other options? | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Follow up: Definitely a bad Denso racing plug. Got the Harley stocker, pulled the Denso - plug was black but not a rich condition sooty black...it was a wet, soggy mixture black. The plug is obviously not firing correctly and resulting in a lot of crap in the cylinder. Installed the stocker and rode 80 miles home. Bike worked really nicely - in some respects better than it ever has at times when passing. No lunging or any weirdness. Wrote the seller of the racing plug, and they've already refunded my money and told me to keep the plug (it's worthless, but there you have it). Looking forward to the Brisk plug getting here. Willy_J - hope you get your issue fixed quickly! Wish I could help with that one. | ||
| Willy_j |
Everything points to the ignition module. Did the voltage check list on testing the auto enrichener. Not enough voltage to activate it. Starts and idles but then floods out. | ||
| Ezblast |
That is a rarity for that year group - 2003 through 2010, but still it could happen. Check your regulator as well. Wouldn't flood out - would die from lack of gas - can playing with throttle keep it going? If yes - suspect auto-enrichner tps reset or low float. If no - look at regulator then ign. module. EZ | ||
| Willy_j |
It will idle for a minute or two than starts to die. Open up the throttle to keep it running but it sputters and blows smoke. It's flooding out. Don't have an air filter on it while I'm working on it. It spits gas spary out the carb. AE not getting enough voltage. | ||
| Willy_j |
Is this the proper order for the needle and slide to go together?  | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes. EZ | ||
| Willy_j |
I was second guessing myself last night. Went and took the carb apart to make sure I had it right. Which I did. I'm getting PO'ed. Want to ride the damn thing. The bike sat for three years. Has exactly 2050 miles on it. Cleaned the carb and adjusted the float. Installed new super boot. New battery. New V&H exhaust. Pin 1 for the AE is causing it to run way too rich. | ||
| Ezblast |
Disconnect electronics - will then run on wot curve - if fine on that, then connect and re-adjust. EZ |
