| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
No. If you adjusted by the repair manual first the went from there, you will hear the difference. Tighten it up until you hear the whirr or idle speed drop, then loosen it. You'll go from whirr, to nothing (relative term), to clacking. Either way you should hear a difference. | ||
| Ezblast |
If I could not hear a sound loosening, then I would torque to spec then 15 to 18 flats out. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur. (Sorry, thumbs up posted to wrong thread and I don't know how that happened!!!) | ||
| Vicenzajay |
I love the idea of the 18mm closed end ratcheting wrench....gonna find me one asap. Cheers! | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
It is time to re-set the clutch adjustment inside the primary case. Somewhere I read that it is better to turn the screw out 1/2 turn. Is there any merit to this? I have trouble getting the clutch plates to separate after the bike sits for a day or two. Is there a remedy for this? The rubber spacer on the gear shift shaft probably serves some useful purpose, but I can't figure out what it is. Help appreciated, KennyG | ||
| Ezblast |
A loose 1/4 turn out is best, change your tranny fluid, and the rubber grommet is a is just that - a spacer - so the shifter is not brought in too far. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! You can turn it more as long as you go back to the 1/4 turn before finishing. I've done this adjustment on Sportster based engines many, many times, sometimes it comes out perfect, other times less so, but still okay. Clutch plates stick, its normal. A perfect adjustment, different fluids all might help, but in reality you're chasing a non problem. You dont have to roll the bike in gear, you dont have to start it in gear, the tranny wont crunch after practice, and once its started, the problem is gone. Thanks EZ. I forgot this was posted and was remiss in addressing it. | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
EZ and Erick, Thank you for clarifying these issues. KennyG | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
What is it? Black box on left side of swing arm measures about 1/2" thick by 1" wide and 2" long? The pic is taken along side of a golf ball to get some perspective as to size. The box is fastened to the swing arm with a zip tie. there are no wires attached to it  | ||
| Atisansei |
Is it magnetic? Looks like a red light changer that triggers the sensor loops. | ||
| Blueblast |
Red-light magnet is my guess as well. | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Albert & Jim It is magnetic and I am sure you are correct about it being a Red-Light magnet. I rode the Blast after my initial posting, without the "Black Box" attached to the bike, and I noticed the one new traffic light that I passed through that the light did not change to red. I will reattach the "Black Box" and test it in the morning. I didn't know that there was such a thing and I want to get one for my Honda. Where should I start looking for a magnetic red-light trip? KennyG | ||
| Blueblast |
you can find them on ebay, amazon, etc. J&P Cyele carries one as well. Do a web search for "traffic light changer" or "traffic light trigger" and you will get hits. | ||
| Blueblast |
better yet, watch this video. Don't know why this hadn't occurred to me (comments not necessary, thank you). A dead computer hard drive or one someone has outgrown is a perfect and inexpensive source for a great magnet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHvMfFu4ZpI | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Been a while since anyone posted here :-) so I'll ask a question: Has anyone here done the "create a super short hex wrench" thing to get access to the primary case without taking off the footpeg bracket? If so, can we get a picture or two of the resultant wrench? Just finished doing about half of the 1000 mile service on my Sportster myself before having the rest done at the shop - the clutch plate adjustment was actually easy and fun to do - would like to check the Blast's adjustment given that I've done about 4,000 miles on her at this point. At the same time, I don't want to bite off the footpeg removal just for fun at this point either, thus the question. | ||
| Ezblast |
You can just loosen the bracket, and if you plan to be a long term owner, I would replace the stock washer and nut of each peg connecting bolt with washer, lock washer and threaded road coupler. Life is easy then to remove the pegs. EZ | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Okay - a few more questions: 1. Replacing belt. I have 16,000 miles on the bike (more than 4,000 I've put on it since buying it in June). I inspected every tooth of the belt today, and it looks pristine. My Blast is a 2000 model, but the recall was done and I have an 80 tooth sprocket, etc. Obviously the belt has been replaced at some point (perhaps the recall, perhaps later), but knowing that belts should be replaced at 15,000 miles has me thinking. Again - the current belt is pristine...no stone damage and no cracking that I can find. Advice? 2. I asked this in another thread - anyone have the footpeg bracket y adapter hardware sizes offhand? That way I can buy the the washer, lock washer and threaded road coupler and have them on hand when it's time to tackle taking off the bracket for the first time (for me). 3. What's everyone's favorite stuff to clean the OUTSIDE of the carburetor? Regular parts cleaner? I've worked super hard to clean this bike - it's been a labor of love for the last 4.5 months - but I'm continually finding areas that need attention. Would love to get the outside of the carb looking new'ish. Thanks again, Jay | ||
| Ezblast |
3/8-16 - what the part book says. I use Brake cleaner - lol - I'd ride the belt till it started looking frayed. Changing belts is easy - even for stock. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Brake parts cleaner-concur! It's the only stuff I buy and a more universal product than carb and choke. If you're not going to replace the belt, I'd look for a spare. They do break. Saying not to replace the belt is easy if you have a spare on hand (I and I'm sure EZ have several). It's your call "do you feel lucky"? Changing belts is very easy, especially if your Blast is stock. It can easily be done on the side of the road with only a torx #27 screwdriver. But buying/finding a belt is not as easy. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Will do - I'm going to order a new belt in any case. My bike is stock except for the exhaust/plug/air filter - so should be easy. EZ - what is 3/8-16? I've not seen that nomenclature for describing hardware fasteners. Is it a 3/8 diameter post of some length (16?)...I assume that's really what I need to know, though, correct? If the diameter is 3/8", that's good enough for me to get a washer/lock washer/threaded coupler. The 8-16 is what is throwing me on the description. Next question - brake pads. I have the service manual, and both my pads (rear and front) have more than .1 inch (the limit in the manual) of material. But they are old pads...bike stops fine, so I'm not in a hurry to do anything I don't need to do. However, brakes are one of those "I don't want to just do the minimum" type maintenance items on a motorcycle. Thanks! Jay | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
3/8 inch nut, coarse thread. Standard threaded rod coupler size (extremely hard to find in any other thread but coarse). Available at Home Depot where the threaded rods are. Unless you're really hard on brakes, don't worry much about it. I would definitely do the research on upgrading the fronts to a better pad and start looking for a deal. At 20k they should probably be changed before next summer. Don't worry about rears. If your wearing out rear pads, you're probably using them too much!!! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Cool - thanks. Yeah, the rear pads have lots of material left...I'm not worried about them at all. I'll look for front brake pads at a steal (sintered, I'm guessing, is the way to go). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
-16 is threads per inch. Fine or coarse thread is all you need to know. They're also listed as USS or SAE threads just to confuse things further !!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS side by side it's very easy to tell the difference between fine and coarse thread. If you've been around, you wont need them to be side by side to tell the difference. They aren't that close in appearance! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
No worries - I understand coarse thread...:-) Thanks again - I'm sure there will be more questions to follow soon! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Let's talk handguards - I've seen the threads about the Uly hanguards (and the pdf) on this site. I know they will bolt up once you finally force the new bar ends into the pipe. That being said, EZ mentions that the Acerbis can also be mounted. That style looks, imo, much better and more solid in design. My only question is which model is the one to get? The link EZ posted in 2010 is no longer valid - Acerbis has several places to buy them, but no model lists the Blast. Lacking any other info, I'd assume the Aprilia model is the one to get? Here's a link: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/30514/i/acerb is-dual-road-handguards?WT.ac=SLIsearch | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Anyone use mitts (Bikemaster)? I'd want to make sure they'd fit on the Blast's setup. http://www.leatherup.com/p/Tucker-NO-SALE/BIKEMAST ER-MITTS--BLACK/370145.html?gclid=CLado6vj-boCFaZ7 QgodPXQAUw | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, I used Hippo Hands which are similar to the BikeMaster Mitts. but The Hippo Hands will be dis-continued this year after the guy and his sister made them forever, and mine lasted at least 30 years. They kept my hands warm along with a pair of old Harley sheep skin lined mittens. http://www.hippohands.com/ Kenny G | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Kenny G, Thanks very much for the info! Did you have any issues with wind "blowback" against brake or clutch levers? Jay | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, There were no issues at all with riding and they blocked the wind. I have been thinking now that heated gloves are available, along with the Hippo Hands, or Mitts, a guy's hands would be totally comfortable. It took mittens to make the Hippo Hands really effective and mittens get a little uncomfortable after a few hours riding. The only thing I had to do every season was disconnect and re-connect the clutch and throttle cables to put the Hippo Hands on or take them off. KennyG |
