| Author | Message | ||
     Styxnpicks |
after two years and way too much money today was the day to fire it up for the first time... no such luck. cranks fires every so often. might pop real loud here and there but all in all i'm ready to wipe my hands clean of this thing and buy a new bike | ||
| Styxnpicks |
in all honesty I probably have the timing off somewhere between the rotor and ignition module btw. i'm just not in the mood to look at it anymore | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur. If you're still having trouble watch the LED for consistent spark. I would then take a compression reading if the spark looks good. Try to avoid pushing it off a cliff though. Sooner or later you'll want to go down and get it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Styxnpicks |
Do you guys know where that post or thread of jetlee's is with the xb cam index pics. I cant find it and I'm thinking that might be the case for no start. I'm geting ignition in there tho which is a good thing. the led does flash, thats the first thing i checked. gas cap off, headlights off, diodes flipped yadda yadda, the ignition is a daytona tec and really simple. it only needs 12+ switched to run, and grounds through the housing. tried two different spark plugs, I even tried disabling the auto choke cause it was getting warm and might have been part of my problem. voes grounded or not didn't make a difference. I'm almost betting the rotor cup is indexed wrong. either that or the 12 volt run to the coil isn't up to snuff and I might need to relay a 12 volt run off the battery. to the coil. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you're getting spark, then the voltage is fine. You're running XB cams, right? I'd still take a compression test (if you have a tester). Maybe you can pass this on: Dont change too many things at once. When your bike wont start or run right, you wont know where to start looking for the problem or what recent mod just caused it. Especially when doing 'custom' or 'experimental' work. I say that almost as many times as "dont take the carb apart just to "give it a good cleaning"! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/662408.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/675820.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/675331.html Maybe PM JetLee. I cant remember, but it seems there's a pretty easy way to find the new timing cup notch location. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
I changed alot when I did the teardown. xb cams 515 kit stage 2 lite xb head daytona twin tec ignition the only thing I didn't really touch was the carb i think I still have 46/175 in there. I dont have a compression tester nor funds to get one. i'm gonna give the ignition another look today. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, if you can borrow one or find some loose change in the couch they arent that expensive. Its just that if the rings havent seated at all, or maybe installed backwards, or a valve is sticking, or the head gasket was installed wrong, etc. low compression will make it very hard to start. Its just a quick and easy way to eliminate that possibility. I would think static timing will tell you if the timing cup is installed correctly (or at least one spark will be correct). If the Daytona tech is timed that way. Keep us posted. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
just pulled the plug out. i'm getting spark but its dim and yellow... I'm thinking I have a bad 3ohm mini coil | ||
| Buellistic |
Pull the fuses on the lights and see if it will start ??? | ||
| Styxnpicks |
headlights are already disconnected and we've been sitting on the battery minder for a few days. I need to take my multimeter over there and test the coil. if its not the coil then its either the ignition or there's a ground problem somewhere. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
gonna stop by the house on the way home from work and checks a feew things. so far on the list: spark gap .040 Coil Primary should be 3 Ohm Coil Secondary should be close to 10000 Ohm Test coil, spark plug, and wire with battery. then I can at least rule out the hot end of the ignition. I wish I had acces to a compression tester to rule that out | ||
| Styxnpicks |
OMG this thing is a BEAST!!! not even the same bike | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I guess we got it running!  | ||
| Styxnpicks |
Took a lot of tweakign but were moving again, only took 2 and a half years | ||
| Styxnpicks |
for the record. the plug was gapped wrong about .032 instead of .040 and last week I had the ignition module timed to the wrong end of the gap in the rotor. I caught that a few days ago but I spend some time static timing over and over and finally got it to catch for about 4 cycles. I just needed to adjust the idle screw to crack the butterfly open a bit more as it was all the way shut. now that its running I need to get this thing to a dyno. once you get above 3500 rpm its like the hand of god just lit a fire under the blast's ass | ||
| Syonyk |
From but all in all i'm ready to wipe my hands clean of this thing and buy a new bike to now that its running I need to get this thing to a dyno. once you get above 3500 rpm its like the hand of god just lit a fire under the blast's ass in under a week. Yep. This forum rocks. And so does the Blast. I'm jealous of you guys with big bore kits. | ||
| Buellistic |
If you want you engine to run better, set the gap at 0.030 ... The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL only gets you in the ball park with its STATIC TIMING procedures and does not tell you how to check the timing to see if it is indeed correct !!! The idle should be set at 1000 RPM's ... The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL does not tell you what to use to set idle to the correct RPM, "BUT" you can buy a TIMING LITE that has a TACHOMETER built in for the non-tach equip'ed engines... | ||
| Styxnpicks |
Ok new problems, wanted to run it through another heat cycle today and after warming it up and riding it about 5-10 minutes its now spuing oil past the cam cover oil seal, the entire right side of the bike is covered in oil now | ||
| Styxnpicks |
Ok new problems, wanted to run it through another heat cycle today and after warming it up and riding it about 5-10 minutes its now spuing oil past the cam cover oil seal, the entire right side of the bike is covered in oil now | ||
| Buellistic |
If the CAM COVER GASKET is not put on correctly it will weep and/or leak ... Are you at liberty to say who put the engine together ??? | ||
| Styxnpicks |
I put the motor together, its not the cam cover gasket leaking or weeping, its the cam seal at the bushing behind the timing rotor, it was fine yeterday, today it was fine at start up but after I got the motor hot it was running. Bad! | ||
| Swampy |
You are in luck! That seal takes all of 10 minutes to replace and is available at every H-D dealer, and can be found at most non dealership H-D stores for about $5! | ||
| Styxnpicks |
well it wasnt the oil seal after all. I grinded the cam cover too close letting the magic stuff out. swapped cam covers and were back in business. Bike runs pretty good now. I'm still having ha hell of a time dialing in the idle circuit. the main jet is spot on tho but we cant ride it wide open all the time without seeing blueberries and cherries but that low rpm wot seems to bog pretty good if you crack it open to far. | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you shimed at all the needle? EZ | ||
| Styxnpicks |
needle is not shimmed. double checked that after test riding. I believe I'm jetted at 45/165 right now but i'm not 100% on that the main jet feels great and I've almost got the idle dialed in. the low to mid rpm wot feels a little soft right now tho, poor throttle response. once it hits about 3500-4000ish it takes off like a bat outta hell tho. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
With XB head and cams, shimming the needle is the last thing you'd want to do ( from my experience). What jetting are you running? 515 & XB head says go lean, (carefully with the 515). Bogging and poor transition can definitely be caused by over rich. Remember you're running a cam that kicks 4000 -7500 rpm. Getting it to run well in the low range will take some work. Getting it to run right at the peak rpms and working backwards seems like a good plan. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
oh it runs right at high rpms all right.. enought to get me into alot of trouble now. i'll double check the jets tomorrow. honestly I'm getting tired of burning my hand asjusting the idle mixture screw but I'm feeling alot more confident with the bike now that i have a whole whopping 20 miles on the motor | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The idle shouldn't be that hardto get close/right and should stay consistent. Is there another problem or am I missing something? |
