| Author | Message | ||
     Imblasted |
thank you, thats all i needed to hear. im not putting the spacer either. im just going to rejet tomorrow. i think im going to cut the horn off of the air box, does it actually make a noticeable difference in sound and air intake? | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/476247.html?1239049400 | ||
| Imblasted |
LMAO! i just realized that the video i was watching is a guy using our carb for a tiny truck (samurai) | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - right now I would just concentrate on getting the bike up and running right, then do the modifications, one at a time. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
good point. i am going to put it back together for tonight then buy my drill bit tomorrow and the jets. its running just not shifting 100%. is there anysize allen wrench i could use? i have metric and standard, or does it have to be a drill bit #32 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! One at a time. Get it up and running. | ||
| Ezblast |
#32 drill bit - common size, goto a hardware store and buy one. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
how important is raising the rear wheel for the clutch adjustment? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not important. I've never raised the rear wheel. | ||
| Imblasted |
so I adjusted the chain cold, 80 degrees outside, it had been making a noise I think is the chain slapping something metal, I adjusted that noise out and now I feel like it doesn't accelerate as fast, there isn't the usual "powerband" (at least that's what it feels like). So I rode it fo 30 mins last night and let it cool now I want to readjust and make the primary a little looser. Does anyone have a sound clip of the noise difference I'm listening for? It still went 95 on the highway. The shifting seems better with the readjusted clutch, altho I still am going to be buying a #32 drill bit to do the pawl adjustment. Are there good pictures of the adjustment process? I am wanting to see the drum pins and what exactly you are telling me to do to the stator. I don't have a micrometer so measuring the drum pins is not very realistic at the moment. I suppose you are going to tell me to buy a cheap one when I get the drill bit... | ||
| Ezblast |
Ride a half hour,take two adjustable wrenches with you, find a very flat space and park with the engine on, loosen lock nut and loosen adjuster till you hear noise, then tighten just till noise disapears, hold set bolt in place and tighten down. Di it just the way I described and you should be fine. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
Ok, so I still think it is too tight even after doing the warm adjustment by sound. We will see what happens after rejetting tonight. I bought thedrill bit andjb weld but forgot the micrometer... any other way to check the shift drum pins without one? | ||
| Ezblast |
Use a vernier, don't use JBWeld, use red locktite for the pins, make sure they are all the same size works, read carefully what I said - loosen till you hear noise, stop, very slowly turn back - should only be a few flats - till noise stops - stop - hold adjustment nut in place and tighten down, making sure adjustment nut does not move. There probably is a tad more power even looser, racers are known for very loose primaries, however, shifting and clutch engagement becomes more difficult, and longevity issues start. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
damn i guess im returning the jbweld, i have red locktite. the noise is the clacking of the belt on something metal, correct. yea, i got the hold the adjuster bolt ill ride again and see if i go slower if i can get it more finely tuned. i drilled the air/fuel mixture cap and did 2 2/3 turns out from super light seating. i have seen you say both 2.5 and 2.666 which would you suggest knowing that i am installing 48/175 jets on a V&H and soon to be modded airbox (if all goes well ill be doing a pro style filter later). i read that you still suggest the washer under the needle, i got the 48 thinking that then i shouldn't need the washers, true? thanks for all your help. FYI i am retaining all this info and will be able to help others once ive done this a couple more times. o yea and i have decided that the rearsets are NOT over priced, lol. Im sure they will pay for them selves by saving my precious time!! | ||
| Ezblast |
2 2/3 should be good any popcorn on decel, then go to 2 3/4. No the washers are for shimming the needle, but that can be done at a separate date, and I would recommend the 45 jet with just a modified air box, though you could roll with the 48, it would be a tad rich on the bottom. That quote about rear-sets is one of the reasons I went to them. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
Ok, this is my first time ever playing with a carberator, but I am 99% sure I put the diaphragm in correctly, and it acts like the one in the video from the carb page. But as soon as I give it gas, pull the throttle, the engine stalls/dies. It has enough power that I was able to ride it upto about 10-15 mph but any more throttle and it stops running. It will start right back up. I know it all sounds like the diaphragm. Could there be a piece missing or did I install something backwards? I'm going to re-read what was posted in the carb section again. | ||
| Ezblast |
Rest of this conversation moved to the carb section! EZ |
