| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Since we arent supposed to have access to that screw, the parts book or manual doesnt list the parts or show a diagram. I havent found a good diagram or part numbers yet. The Keihin is a very common carb (Kaws use them as well as others) so the diagram and part numbers are out there, but I havent found them (or looked hard enough). Sorry  | ||
| Ezblast |
Any non factory HD service center would have the parts though, since big twins use that carb as well. EZ | ||
| Donaldj |
I have ordered the needle jet, Just waiting for it to come in. Will post when parts arrive and the outcome. Hoping for the best! | ||
| Donaldj |
The needle jet arrived!!! Went for a nice long ride And, She ran like a dream. Thank you for all your help. | ||
| Kenster32 |
is there an aftermarket needle that does the job without shims that's the perfect fit? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There is supposed to be a factory needle that is adjustable, but every time I've ordered that supposed needle-it isnt. So you could try that if you come across it and let us know. I dont know of an aftermarket 'stock' needle that adjusts, but the 'jet kits' usually come with an adjustable needle. Unfortunately those kits usually use their own jet sizing and the needle is very different (not interchangeable with stock) so its going difficult to find help with jetting from anyone using stock jets (which is most. $6 or $90-which would you spend?). However, if you are actually good at tuning carbs, it wont matter. The jet kits are supposed to be better performing, but thats a moot point if you dont know what you are doing (that means actually getting in the bike and doing it and not describing symptoms to someone and asking where to go). FWIW: There isnt much difference. Shimmed or e-clips, both can get dropped and lost pretty easy! | ||
| Luvdathump |
I know your guys are probly tired of all the questions but one more. Please. Does anyone have a picture of what the 45 and 170 jets look like I just got them and the main jet looks nothing like what I took out. I matched the part number to that at the top of the page. The threads are not even the same size and I got them from the dealership.  | ||
| Swampy |
The new jets need to look like the old jets. There are at least two different sizes of jets, one for the CV and one for the Mikuni. The Mikuni uses a different numbering system, so a 170 Mikuni is something totally different then that of a 170 CV. Dyno Jet performance kits uses a different main metering tube threaded for Mikuni jets for their main jets because they offer a more precise sizing varity than that of the CV jets. If you go to an "Old School" non-dealer HD shop they usually have a tray with all the different sized jets you can select from....no ordering or waiting involved, and usually much less expensive also. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur-old jets should look just like the new jets. If they look different and both jets are in Harley packaging its very possible that someone installed an aftermarket jet kit on the bike. The jets can look very different if thats the case and are not compatible. Not tired of the questions  | ||
| Luvdathump |
That's nice to hear gearhead I'm not sure about the aftermarket thing kinda why I'd like a picture. Blasts come with a kiehen CV carb right. Anyway the main jet I pulled out was stamped 165 which I think I read was a stock jet in 2001. I'm thinking I can pull out the old jets replace the float bowl run to an "old school" bike shop and get it done that way. Any objections? Thanks for all your help!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm confused. You got the jets from the dealer using the part numbers listed above #27170-89 & # 27115-88 in the HD packaging. If you look them up in Dennis Kirk or JP Cycles, they probably have a picture. Old keihin jets are similar, but I dont know why they'd be in the wrong HD packaging. The carb is most certainly a CV or stock carb, very, very few arent. Yes you can take the jets out and run to the 'old school' bike shop. Jets from any Harley carb from about 1989 to present will fit. Stock Softails 2005 + or -, use a 45 slow jet. Sportsters will probably use the 170. | ||
| Luvdathump |
The part numbers on the bags are 27090-89 for the main and 27170-89 for the pilot jet. I pulled the main jet It looked nothing like the jet that was in the package so I put the old jet back and reassembled the carb so I didn't upset the float. The main jet I pulled out was about two inches give or take and the main jet I got is less than a half an inch so I'm confused too. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, now we're getting somewhere. You pulled out the emulsion tube with the main jet. The main jet separates from that tube. Usually that tube stays on the carb, but sometimes they both come out. Now that you've pulled that tube out, make sure the needle jet doesnt fall out (aka: anything else). | ||
| Luvdathump |
The needle jet being that shiny chrome piece that you can install upside down and make the bike not run right. That happened to me had to strip the bike down and flip it around. Thanks for the info I'll tear into it and see what I can do. I must say I'm getting pretty good at tearing that bike apart. | ||
| Luvdathump |
Go ahead point and laugh at the new guy. I did it only took about 30 seconds of looking at the jet and tube for the lightbulb to go on. I chuckled a little and learned my something for the day. Going on a ride up to Mt. St. Helens. I'm going to get a picture of my blast in front of one of the biggest blasts in recorded history. Kinda cheezy but it's the best I could come up with. Thanks once agian.  | ||
| Toniportray |
Alright. This still isn't fixed though I haven't been riding the Blast for at least 6 months because of this problem. This is what prevented me from going on the highly anticipated SLO ride. The problem is some sort of engine misfire. Spark plug is fine, gas is new, and actually everything runs fine until the engine gets warm. After about 15-20 minutes of riding the problem shows up. In 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears when giving throttle (anything above 1/8 throttle), the engine sputters and just doesn't output any work. It tries to rev up but just grumbles up and down like if I were revving it in really rapid cycles. I have provided a sound recording to help with this diagnosis. MIC020.MP3 - 0.79MB It's an awful sound and I am stumped. I've thoroughly checked and adjusted the exhaust port so that my stock exhaust is snug as can be according to specs. It seems like it would be an air leak around the boot, but both my boots are in immaculate condition and tightening more bit by bit has no improvement. Spraying carb cleaner around the boot also doesn't seem to have any change in the rpms unless I really drench the area, in which case I'm sure some fluid as viscous as carb cleaner would easily work into the boot even on a system without an air leak. The intake port itself appears snug and tight against the head. I don't know what the problem is. Timing was set right on with a timing light at least 18 months ago and has never acted up. The wierd part is this is only when the engine is warm, which is why I suspect perhaps the heat of the intake pipe is maybe causing the boot to soften and peep open just enough to let a little air in(?). Otherwise I would expect to have this problem when the engine is cold, but I don't. I guess if it really is an air leak the solution is to go get some thermal rubber tube that I can really clamp down tight around the carb and intake sides to really make sure that area is sealed. Again, there is no problem once I get up to speed in 4th and 5th (even warm), but it's especially when giving that first little bit of throttle as you shift into gear, it grumbles like hell and just won't offer any propulsion. It's a standard air box so the carb should be well supported to prevent it from bending the boot and cracking a little airway for a leak to develop. This just started happening spontaneously on my way to work, so there weren't any changes made to the bike that I could suspect as the culprit. What are you're thoughts? Don't forget to check the link to listen to the sound file. Thanks ahead! | ||
| Ezblast |
Dirty low jet, torn slide, partially fouled plug, or bad plug wire - those are the things I'd check first. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you 49 state the bike yet? Ignition module will cause this as well the lesser problematic coil. Spark plug wire and plug. Do you have the jetting excessively lean? (whats it at?) An exhaust port or intake leak are unlikely causes. An exhaust leak will rarely cause major (or minor) running problems. If the boot is as good as you say, dont over test it. I've seen bikes run with 2 inch cracks. Even if you had a little leak it would still run well at high rpms. Bad kickstand or other safety switch which is usually eliminated by bypassing the kickstand switch and/or flipping the clutch diode. Does your neutral light work consistently? Since it runs fine in 4th or 5th, it may be that the extra vibrations of getting up to speed are causing a bad safety switch to malfunction. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Posted by Toniportray on Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 09:23 pm: So here's what I've been up to. Spark plug itself is great. I have two in near new condition and they both look great. Cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and checked the slide, vacuum diaphragm, etc. and it all looks great. I tried making adjustments to the ignition module and it had all the normal effects that I would expect from a healthy unit. I pulled the spark plug wire and I wonder if this is where the trouble lies. You see, I've never seen any automotive part in either cars or motorcycles that looks as poorly designed as this Blast spark plug cable. Correct me if I'm wrong because I may be naive about spark plug wires. Apparantly this "wire" is nothing more than crumbled up pieces of carbon?! There is a cheapo copper or brass peice with a small tab on the end of it that is supposed to create a contact between the carbon core of the "wire" and the ignition coil unit. I'm surprised that this setup produces and spark whatsoever because there is a 2-3mm gap between this contact point and the carbon core in the wire. The carbon core is actually protruded back into the cable. Is this normal!? This seems like something a 5 year old would design. Why not use a setup that actually keeps all the electronic parts in contact? The other end appears to be a little better underneath the plug boot/cover, but the connection between the brass/copper tube piece and the wire itself seems really poorly designed. I can't get any resistance reading through the carbon core with my multimeter. What I did do just now though is slap a bunch of dielectrode grease at all these connection points and reconnect everything on the bike and there is an improvement, though the problem is still there. However, I haven't road tested this yet and I don't know if the bike will do it's usual thing where it runs fine for the first 10 minutes, and then starts sputtering like hell in the first 3 gears during initial acceleration. I could be naive about all this because I don't have much experience tinkering with spark plug wires, but this seems like a really stupid setup that is just destined to fail. This may not be the culprit after all, but I think I should put a better setup on here anyways because if that little tab near the ignition coil unit even shifts 2-3mm more, there will be too large of a gap for any electricity to travel down through the wire. Why not just use a more standard wire core like copper or silver? Why is HD using a carbon core that just crumbles to peices as soon as I touch my multimeter electrodes on the core tip? Lastly, what can Eric and Ed (and others) suggest for a replacement? I didn't see much in the spark plug section on this topic. Again I'm not sure this is the fix I need, but maybe someone else has been down this road before and knows what's up. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Does sound like a loose spark plug wire. | ||
| Toniportray |
Hey, what happened to my new posting? I posted a bunch of information about the things I checked and how I suspect the spark plug cable might be the culprit. I know I fully published the message... Maybe it got axed because I was bashing on the design of the cable. Guess I'll never know for sure. Anyway, what I'm probably needing to do is replace or perhaps modify the spark plug cable. I do have an 8mm cable from a car that has the same length but a different end that would connect to the ignition coil unit. I might be able to work the little stock brass piece that goes into the ingition coil module to fit into the car spark plug cable end, but I don't know the science behind all the electrical properties of spark plug wires. There's got ot be something better than this cheap carbon core that just falls apart on the stock cable. Anyone have suggestions on replacement? I didn't see much in the spark plug thread. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Reposted in original location. I do not know why several of the posts from the last few days have disappeared. It was not the doings of any custodian. | ||
| Sucarf |
Hello all, I'm having a problem with cold starts on an '01. It will not cold start on it's own. With some starter fluid is starts cold but doesn't stay running. It requires repeated revving of the engine until it is warm. If the throttle is held continually on it will bog down. Once it warms up it runs perfectly. I purchased the bike 2 months ago and brought it to an HD dealer for the 1000 mile service and a carb cleaning as it had been siting for a few years. I replaced the intake boot, but the problem still persists. It seems to me that the auto enrichener might not be working. Is there an easy way to test this? | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds to me like they did not do a good job cleaning the carb. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Sucarf! "a carb cleaning" Almost always a bad idea. It does sound as if the auto enrichener is not working. Besides AE replacement (which I cant say for sure it is) changing the stock slow jet to a #44,45 (or even a 46) will help with starting. Its lean with a 42 anyway, so going to a #44 (minimum) will help with general running too. | ||
| Toniportray |
Welcome indeed. If you're up for doing some exploring of the Blast's guts then you might enjoy cleaning the carburetor yourself to make sure it's done right. Don't be intimidated about motorcycle mechanics. It's not as difficult as it may appear. This sounds a lot like the problem I had when I first put in a K&N air filter. I did however have an added problem of the bike stalling anytime I went downhill (which I suspect was probably from added wind into the airbox and to the carburetor). My solution was to unplug the brass cover to the idle mixture adjustment screw and turn it about 2 flats out to richen the excessively lean mixture that was killing the motor. My recent problem turned out to be the spark plug wire after all. I put on a cable from a compact car V4 of the same length and fiddled with the brass connecting piece to make it work with the car cable ending. Not only is the problem gone but it feels like there's more power in each piston crank. The Blast is happy as Hell as am I. Wine country is once again Blasting territory. Thanks again for the Blast masters input. I would have never guessed that the spark plug cable was at fault. So much for being a smart scientist. (Message edited by toniportray on August 18, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Isn't that a mad scientist - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"you might enjoy cleaning the carburetor yourself " This is almost always bad advice and "we've" spent more time on Badweb trying to solve the problems this creates. It rarely solves the problem and usually creates more. To me its tantamount to taking the engine apart and giving it a good cleaning. They are both closed units and failure is usually in just one part that a "good cleaning" is not going to do as much good as finding out which part has failed. Given the complexity of both units the risk of error is great unless you have lots of experience at it. No offense Tony, but I'll keep beating this drum until we stop having to sort out the problems this causes. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - practice makes perfect! EZ | ||
| Toniportray |
 Mad scientist indeed. I've got my thesis defense coming up this fall so I'm glad to have the Blast back in shape so I can get my mind off it. I can only begin to describe how a malfunctioning motorcycle eats into the working mind, creating ongoing obsession and preventing me from producing good PhD level work. If all goes well on this examination I'm going to immediately walk out of the Berkeley lecture hall and just ride my Blast until I hit either water or the Mexican border out of sheer satisfaction. Sometimes positive reinforcement really works well. |
