| Author | Message | ||
     Harleydude777 |
I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE... I have the new tension shoe but we cannot get it to go back on....when we put the spring in the hole in the block and then try to slide the shoe on the shaft while puting the other end of the spring on, it catches on the groves in the spring..and there is so much tension just trying to tap it on it does not work... and if we try puting the spring on the shoe first then sliding it on the shaft to line up the other end of the spring on the block....just ain't happening.....how does this thing go on....someone please help...thanks alot | ||
| Harleydude777 |
Am I going to have to take the front sprocket off to get this shoe on? and if so do you just take that 30mm front sprocket nut off and slide it off? will i be afecting anything else if i have to do that? and I think I read on here you need to torque that nut back to 190-210 ft. pounds when replacing correct? any info would be greatly appriciated | ||
| Ezblast |
No you don't have to take the front sprocket off - try fitting them all together at once type of thing - it is a bit frustrating but it is doable - usually I fit the spring to the motor then the shoe to the spring - pm'ed you. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
The spring half in the hole and the shoe half on the spring. Then fit it all together - lol EZ | ||
| Harleydude777 |
O.K. how do you get a PM? EZBLAST where do I go to look at what you sent me? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It comes as a regular email just with the badweb name on it. Check your emails. If you click on a profile (click on a name to the left), all the way down at the bottom it has an option to "click here" to send a private message to.... | ||
| Rainman |
Hey E-Z, Swampy and all, thanks for babysitting the mechanically handicapped. If you have one more second.... Couldn't find the proper torque wrench in this town, so I tried adjusting the primary using the alternative method. I loosened the jam nut, tightned the limiting nut until the idle started to drop, backed it out two 1/2 flats. tightened the jam nut. Unfortunately, I still get a clicking noise in the primary during idle, a once-every-two or-three-second click that I can feel in the footrest. When I put it in gear and ride it, the click goes away, the shifts are precise and it runs well. When I stop, that click comes back. I tried loosening the limiter nut some, but and it made the occasional click in the footpeg go away, but when I put it in gear the trainy rattled like a locked box of rocks. I'll probably make an appointment later with the dealer, but does it sound like I got it? And any ideas on the clicking inside the primary that would be felt in the peg? Boy, mechanical things are so, well, damned mechanical.... | ||
| Swampy |
Rainman, I am glad to hear you are experimenting! Is it clicking with the clutch pulled and in gear, or in nuetral clutch out, or nuetral clutch pulled in? | ||
| Swampy |
Did I spell it correctly? nuetral neutral At least it isn't nutered or was it neutered? | ||
| Rainman |
It clicks in neutral with the clutch out. (I had to look it up because I couldn't remember it either...) I have been leaking a bit of lube down the clutch cable for some time, but I don't think there's enough to have drained it. | ||
| Swampy |
It is not clicking with the clutch in? Have you done a clutch adjustment yet? The cable leaking could be the "O" ring or it could be the cable itself. | ||
| Rainman |
Swampy, It does click with the clutch in and once or twice as I let it out. When I go through the rev range, shifting, down shifting, etc., it's quite. I haven't adjusted the clutch as it wasn't acting funny. I guess that's next. | ||
| Swampy |
Look somewhere else first, listen for the noise, then start holding onto things and see if it goes away(use goleves for the hot parts, I burnt the heck out of my finger by touching a fresh off the bike front brake rotor for a perfectly good total stranger while helping him change a front tire at the race track yesterday) Then you can also use a "listening rod" to place on your bike while it is running and putting your ear to the rod to see from where the sound is coming from. OK, time to move this post! | ||
| Ezblast |
I think it is something else rattling Brian - for instance the Brake peddle mounting parts, something - give her a good look over first - I've a hunch its something simple. EZ | ||
| Rainman |
Thanks guys. The constant rattle is gone and it's shifting great and not acting funny, so it could easily be something else. It's rough being paranoid. Ever since that tragic childhood accident post bicycle-chain adjustment and brake shoe refitting.... | ||
| Ezblast |
Remember - theres always the Oak Tree! EZ | ||
| Rainman |
Too many laps with too few clothes could lead to a restraining order..... | ||
| Swampy |
Also the clutch cable leak, I just found the outer plastic cover on the Big Kids Blast has a small cut in it and as soon as I wipe any transmission fluid residue off it reappears! Too few clothes is not the recommended Nekkid to make the Oak Tree Dance work! | ||
| Rainman |
Do I need to grasp my inch-pound wrench when I dance nekkid around the oak tree? | ||
| Ezblast |
I love tech discussions!  EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Yes, hold it with your left hand while your right hand is flailing around in the air above you head like this: Paste appropriate mental image here: | ||
| Miss_doc |
have y'all seen this???? Breaking News. Baker Drivetrain To Launch A 7-Speed Transmission Published by Cyril Huze March 11th, 2008 in Editorial. I was in the confidence during Daytona Bike week. One of the bikes riding around the city and on the I95 was test-equipped with a prototype 7-speed transmission. The Baker DD7 is being developed as a direct replacement of the Cruise Drive Harley-Davidson factory 6-speed to improve it in many ways. 1- Factory 1st gear ratio is too tall (numerically too small). The DD7 has a shorter (numerically larger) 1st gear for easier launches. 2- Shift clunk. In transmission design, be it automotive or motorcycle, low mainshaft weight is always desirable for smooth and quiet shifts. Audible shift clunk in the factory 6-speed is caused by the heavy weight and resultant high inertia of the 1-piece forged mainshaft. That mainshaft is a one-piece design that includes1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. The DD7 mainshaft is light weight and only includes the small 1st gear as an integral part. 3- Shift smoothness. Shift smoothness in the factory 6-speed is a definite improvement over the 5-speed. The DD7 is a big improvement over the factory 6-speed because it incorporates a new linear roller ball detent as part of the supplied Billet Top Cover. This linear roller ball detent is similar to the type first used in Baker TorqueBox transmissions. 4- Gear noise. The factory 6-speed has straight cut 1st and 5th gears. This yields gear noise in 1st and 5th.The Baker DD7 has a full set of helical gears for quiet operation in every gear. The Harley-Davidson factory 6-speed ratios are: 1st (3.34), 2nd (2.30), 3rd (1.71), 4th (1.41), 5th (1.18), 6th (1.00). The Baker DD7 transmission will have the following ratios : 1st (3.76), 2nd (2.75), 3rd (2.06), 4th (1.55), 5th (1.27), 6th (1.10), 7th (1.00). In this new Baker DD7, Shift Drum is designed to help the rider find Neutral every time, like with all other Baker Transmissions. Testers tell me that the bike felt like motor work has been done to it and that it shifts like a dream. Baker Drivetrain.http://www.cyrilhuzeblog.com/2008/03/11/breaking-n ews-baker-drivetrain-about-to-launch-a-7-speed-tra nsmission/ figured id post both, let y'all check it out for yourselves. maybe the blast will get 6th someday. | ||
| Ezblast |
Very nice! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Baker is in my neighborhood, just south of the swamp | ||
| Ezblast |
The Holy land - replete with Grail - 7 speeds no less - Time for milk and cookies - lol EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
No EZ....it's not time for milk and cookies....it's time to hit the lottery!!! LOL | ||
| Ezblast |
The Baker 6 speed for the 2000 tuber models will fit the Blast - already been done and tested - lol EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
 nice | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Ok, so I'm going to change my trans fluid, and adjust the primary. Just to make sure I do everything right, I check with the BadWeb and I read that for Trans Fluid I can use any synthetic motor oil...like 20w50 Mobil 1, but DON"T use Mobil 1 Gear oil 15w95! But wait, isn't that what I used about 3 years ago when I did this last? I check the cupboard and I have a bottle, so I think I did. I remember using HD sporttrans the first time, and when I switched to synthetic it worked better. So, did I kill my stator or what? The fluid was a little funny looking when it came out. Kinda brown like coffee with maybe 1 cream...oh boy I don't like the way this is going. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Whatever damage is done, its done. You probably did more damage to the clutch plates than the stator. At this point I'd go back and use Harley stuff (Sporttrans or synthetic) rather than mix other unapproved oils in what is a potentially damaged clutch or stator. Definitely drain it when its hot (if possible). If you experience problems after the change, change it again after 500 or 1000 miles. |
