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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Diagnosing problems: » Archive through December 24, 2008 » Starting problems... of course « Previous Next »

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Lonestartbuell
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A month ago, my brother ran directly into a curb at about 5-10 miles an a hour. The only visible damage was a bent rim. I replaced that then though it was ready for the road again. I got on to ride and before I got 50 ft the bike died. It started back up then died when I gave it gas. Walked it back home then it would start then stall and die. Now it just won't start. The motor turns but won't fire up. It has a full tank of fresh gas, I replaced the carb boot, inspected the carb and air box, replaced spark plug and wire, there's good suction on the air box and I know gas is getting through the carb because 1) I took the fuel line off the pet and tried to start and felt suction 2)I pulled the carb off, drained the pool, cleaned out the intake manifold, put it back on, tried to start a few times, then took the carb off again and it was filled with gas and the intake manifold was wet with gas.

Basically, I hear the thump when I try to start but it just won't fire up. Any ideas?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My guess is a bad safety switch which could have been damaged in the 'crash'. They'll often cause your issues.
Do a search "clutch diode" (thumper forum) and follow the instructions. That should bypass most of the switches.

Perhaps a coincidence, but ignition modules going bad will sometimes only fire every 3rd rotation. Its helpful to know if its sparking every compression stroke or not. Given the accident, its probably a safety switch.

PS your front fork is also probably bent, but also probably okay not to change it.

I'd do the search for the clutch diode, but the laptop I'm on is problematic and although I'd find it, posting the link could be impossible.Sorry.
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Lonestartbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for the quick response.

Actually, I tried reversing the starter circuit diode according to this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html?1084449109 and no improvements. Also, I'm not getting a spark at all
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Berkshire
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the wires from the ignition module come out on the bottom side of the cam cover - maybe they were damaged in the curb incident?
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Reuel
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See if the red LED on the ignition module is blinking when you crank it over. If not, the HEI is probably broken. If so, it's likely a loose wire between ignition and spark plug.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur with Reuel, but if you're hearing a "thump", then its blinking at least some. Are you getting spark (at the plug) with every rotation?

You bank angle sensor may also be fubar. You'll have to trace to it on the wiring diagram. Its just on the other side of the frame where the battery sits across from a circuit breaker (sharing the same bolt)-if I remember correctly (no Blast to look at here). Its a 'smart switch' and wont return without the ignition being turned off. The small bearing inside may be stuck in the rollover position.

I'm hoping you havent complicated the problem by taking everything apart in your efforts to fix it.
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Lonestartbuell
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for the input guys. Reuel was on the money, the wiring harness attached to the black box which the spark plug cable is plugged into looked like it was attached but was not. Any idea what that black box is?

After I got that taken care of, I took it for a ride but when I hit about 35mph it stalled out. It didn't want to start for about 10 minutes then I rode again and it stalled out. Any idea what's up with that?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Same problems as previously stated. Does it have spark?

Black box is coil (from your description).
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Lonestartbuell
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, now it does. I was thinking maybe it's running lean. previous owner installed stage 1 dyno jet kit but it has a 42 pilot jet and a 160 main jet with a vance & hines exhaust and K&N air filter. Could this be the problem?
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 02:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it has their needle in it - very rich - then it should be ok - what does the plug say?
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, if it just started having problems and it didnt before, then its not the jetting. Something must have broken or gone bad to cause new problems.
The jetting may be problematic, such as too rich and too lean at the same time. If the 42 is stock it needs to be changed to a 45. The 160, if its a Dyno jet, may be the equivalent of a 180 stock, but I've never seen a cross reference chart or application chart for the Dynojet jets.
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A heat related shock-induced failure of the ignition module is theoretically possible.
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