| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
So, what...we have 4+ ways to adjust the primary? At least 3 give almost the same adjustment. The factory repair manual method doesnt specify a measurement in inches and with its unique adjuster whose to say 3/4" is right? That measurement isnt even consistent with the XL/Buell manuals of the last 50 years?Realistically, like valve adjustments and rear chain adjustments, people will use what they feel is right or justified (especially since every recommended method deviates from the factory repair manual method). Once again I applaud the approach of comparing the various methods of chain adjustment and posting the results here (Thanks Paul). Thats why Badweb works and why many find the resources here extremely useful. I'll add Ladyduck to the long list of people here who took the time to contribute valuable helpful information: EZ,JimRich,Swampy,Jprovo,Phoebe,Naustin,Muckerpuck, Berkshire, Rueul(Joey), Xgecko and many others whose names escape me. Not to forget Blake without whom this site wouldnt exist. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 14, 2008) | ||
| Buellistic |
Paul(AKA Luckyduck): Ezblast and Gearheaderiko still do not get it("TO BE CORRECT ONE HAS TO KNOW HOW TO FIND THE PRIMARY CHAIN TIGHT SPOT")... If good enough is the way you take care of your BLAST, then use the a just good enough method ... "CORRECT IS THE ONLY WAY !!!" In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Reuel |
The guy who was my mentor when I was first learning to ride a bike was telling me about a friend of his. This guy, when he bought a new bike, would never start it until he took it completely apart, measured all the parts using micrometers, and after all parts pass his inspection or get replaced accordingly, he puts the whole thing back together again. Was he talking about you, Buellistic? Do you know a guy who was in the Navy Reserves in Kansas City? I'm going to print this page and keep it and try it out when I do my Spring maintenance. | ||
| Ezblast |
Gbaz - try bringing it in a few flats at a time - till the sound disappears. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
There are more than one correct method for many things - including this it seems - I understand about the chains tight spot due to mechanical tolerances, I also understand that certain adjustment methods take that into consideration - supposedly - the manual would be one, however, we all know that to be incorrect - my point is, several methods mentioned on this board get the job done and close enough to correct as to not really matter. No one claimed that if you don't do it this way then you are wrong or clueless, or don't know what you are talking about - except you. Instead in a true spirit of Buell brotherhood - advice was given in good honesty - no claims of expert from anyone - that advice got the job done in good fashion - it has served us well - the method I just posted from Paul - I will add to the headliner as an easy simple method to use, and yours will be saved for folks opening their primary - I - myself - would not waste the money on gaskets, o-rings, etc. just to adjust my primary. And as you said - Buelistic - to be totally accurate you would have to see the shoe contact bolt - with the primary open - otherwise your just guessing by feel - nothing a real mechanic would do - so your method with the cover off would be correct - otherwise your way is just a series of hopefully close guesses. Enough said. - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 10, 2008) | ||
| Buellistic |
where did you come up with opening the primary ??? Hopefully you are not going to come up with going through the exhaust pipe to adjust the primary ??? | ||
| Ezblast |
I added an addendum - read it - lol EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
when you make a mountain out of a mole hill, who would try to explain, let alone tell you how ... | ||
| Ezblast |
You built that mountain - baby - lol EZ | ||
| Luckyduck |
Ease up. AS long as it works for you, go for it. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Paul - I live by my initials - ;0) EZ | ||
| Toniportray |
So I'm just a bit curious on motorcycle transmission theory here, but is a primary chain the most effective mechanism for transferring motion from the crankshaft to motion to the transmission? For instance, why not just use gears (of any type) to go directly from the crankshaft to the clutch pack/transmission(?). That way you have something that doesn't need adjusting and has a 1 to 1 ratio to the transmission. Why bother with a chain that needs adjusting, replacement, etc? Seems like a direct connection using gears would be better. Just curious to see what the community out there thinks. I'm sure there's something that I'm underestimating or neglecting, so I'd love to see what folks think. | ||
| Buellistic |
that would be a good up-date as the ones that do not know how to adjust(they do not have a clue on how to find the true chain TIGHT SPOT) a Primary Chain would be out of the wrong "INFO" business ... that is why the REAR DRIVE BELT is not adjustable as they would not have any idea how to find the TRUE TIGHT SPOT on the Drive Belt... | ||
| Swampy |
Toniportray, I think(as if anyone cares, but you asked) that the chain is an "Old School" hold over from almost all of the HD primary drive systems. I did see an old belt drive Sportster primary laying in Spidermans garage one time. I think it was in oil also but I could be wrong. I don't know why it isn't a gear drive like most of the other manufacturers. It has been said a chain drive is an inefficient way to transmit power compared to shaft drive. Maybe the the torque from the engine impulses would wear or break a gear drive. Ov course a VROD is a gear primary but I think that is an even firing engine. | ||
| Reuel |
The new 1125R uses gears instead of a chain! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I think the victory is gear drive and I remember the early ones were very "notchy" - "lashy" feeling.. I almost bought one but couldn't get over that "notchy" feeling. Bought a 2000 Road king instead. I hope I'm right about what I THINK I remember from my engineering classes. Sure chains stretch but.. they pull the casting together (compress) and for the most part they are quiet. Gears push a casting apart (stronger castings needed) and they wear, gear set-up and lash is critical. Unless they are helical cut they can be noisy as heck. I think for the Torque of a HD or thumper a chain or belt is the way to go. | ||
| Ezblast |
Buellistic - you sad puppy - guessing at ten different spots is still guessing, and no one is opening their primary just to adjust it - so get over it. Slowhand - very true. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Slowhand, thumbs up! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slowhand, double  | ||
| Slowhand96 |
 Thank yew.. Thank Yew! I was hoping that somewhere up there hidden amongst the cobwebs and loose marbles there was still some partly functioning gray matter! | ||
| Harleydude777 |
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and you guys know alot.....My youngest just bought a 2002 Blast and loves it....we are trying to take off the primary cover because i think the shoe is worn out because we cannot tighten the primary chain and it is making alot of NOISE...not to sound dumb ..but how the hell does that cover come off...we have taken ALL allen screws out...removed peg support....removed the 3 torx screws and inspection cover ...removed gear shift peg and spacer so shaft is all that is sticking out of case...unhooked clutch cable from inside inspection cover...and used a rubber malet to try and losen the cover..it still won't budge....WHATS THE SECRET PLEASE .. | ||
| Buellkat |
Did you get all 14 allen screws removed? There is one in the center behind the shift peg shaft area. The clutch cable does not need to be removed to remove the cover, but since you already did, just an FYI.} | ||
| Harleydude777 |
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!!! that was it...did'nt even look in that hole for a screw....we now have 14 total and the cover is off...well the tensioning shoe is broke in half no wonder we could'nt get the chain tight... how hard is that to take off and replace? it feels like it has a spring on it...do you just push down hard on the back tab and slide the shoe off the rod it is on? any help would be greatly appriciated... | ||
| Ezblast |
Just pulls off and fix spring to new one and put back on. EZ | ||
| Harleydude777 |
have you heard of this happening before...breaking completly in two? what else should i look for now that i have the cover off...and again thanks...this forum is great...with tons of info... | ||
| Reuel |
It was likely adjusted too tightly. Someone had pictures of one that was too tight, but he got to it before it broke. | ||
| Buellkat |
It sounds like the last "owner" must have tightened it too much and the primary chain just wore it down or broke it in half because it was in the way so to speak. If you have a manual it goes thru the steps to pull off the drive gears/clutch pack with the chain and magnet over the stator, then you can inspect all over for any pieces of plastic from the shoe. The shoe only costs $5 from HD. I have pics from when I had my primary all pulled apart, let me know if you need them. If you are confident in doing more 'internal' work, this is when you can do the shifter pawl adjustment too. It is in the manual for that procedure. | ||
| Harleydude777 |
Well i don't have a manual because it sounded like throughout the forum people thought they were junk/useless...so should i get one? also trust me i am a very limited backyard mech. when you start talking "pawl" adjustment and "clutch pack" I start looking for the "vodka".. unless it is fairly simple and right there in your face stuff ..if you could walk me through it....and think it should be done @ this time then that would be great...and I have a very limited tool box....and one more question..(hope this isn't to stupid) but this is a tranny/primary combination right? so far I have changed the motor oil/filter to Harley Syn 3 ...had changed the primary oil to syn 3 per someones recominadtion of filling through the breather hose...is there a seperate tranny plug and fill area? I did the motor oil and primary right when the boy got the bike a few weeks ago....but i knew something did'nt sound right in the primary area..so after reading this forum and finding out what tools we needed we started tearing it apart... that god#$%^ left peg support assembley is a PAIN...what the hell where the engineers thinking with that...i hope we can get it back on...the bike is a 2002 with 4,400 miles on it... when I went to adjust the primary chain the damn spacer was still on it so that started me thinking if this thing has been checked out at all since breakin...any more helpful hints on what we should look for/at would be great...also what a cool little bike...the boy just needs to learn how to wrench on her so he can take care of it...thanks again | ||
| Reuel |
To get that peg support off, you do better to have a U-joint and 6" extension on your ratchet. Also, don't pull it quite all the way off. I fill mine through that cover that's under the peg support. The book says fill it until the oil covers the gear teeth on the bottom of the clutch. Some like to drain it, then fill it up top, but I like to have access to my clutch so I can do it all while I'm there. Do get a manual! They have errors and inaccuracies, but they are very important for reference when you're working on a Blast. To adjust that thing next time, just find the topic here and you can get a dozen different opinions on how to do it. Just make sure that whatever you do, don't do it according to the manual or it will be too tight again. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry the manuals are not junk or useless, I'm not sure how you got that impression (but I think I know  ) They do have errors, but without one it makes it darn near impossible to help anyone out online. Its very possible the primary chain was never adjusted and slapping around it broke the shoe. Check for any other damage inside the case while you're there. (loose bolts, other cracks,etc.) |
