| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Erik is right. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I've always understood that 14.7 is the ideal balance between power and economy. Engines with EFI and feedback carburetors are typically tuned to 14.7. The reason pulling off the air cleaner got more power with a leaner mix is because you got more air flow. More air in the cylinder contributed more to increasing power than the lean mixture did to decrease power. Dyno tunes always result in rich mixtures because you're dealing exclusively with power. | ||
| Ezblast |
Mo Power Baby! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, Can you put those diagrams showing the float adjustment permanently to the top ? | ||
| Ezblast |
I did - please send me a pint of what ever your sipping on- please - lol - did it on March 28th - hope your riding weather is good now. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Reuel: Concur! I just didnt know how high the power would go if I tuned it for the air cleaner off. EZ: I only confirmed what was already written at the top of this section! | ||
| Swampy |
Thanks, I guess it was up there, I just scrolled past it too fast! I would ship you a pint of the apple hooch I have but I don't know how to do it, they have restrictions on things like that down at the post office! Figure a way and I will send you some! Yes! Riding weather is finally here, but alas I will not be able to ride until Saturday. I had to have the Little Kids Kerker welded, the muffler mounting tab broke off. | ||
| Gbaz |
I had a question for yall. The TPS sends out voltage depending on where the throttle is closed about .5 for open 3.7? Or somewhere around those numbers. I was looking into changing ignition moduels, but none read TPS, all use VOES. VOES just closes at a set neg pressure. It usually can be adjusted for whatever engine you want to use it on, but u need to know what vac WOT, and idle would be. So i was thinking why not make a device that would be open and close then a set V was applyed? The tps could still be used, and when you are at WOT (or some point right before it) the device would open, and ground at idle the VOES wire going to the ignition moduel. I spoke with some eletrical engineers around here, and they will design the thing for me, but i want to see if mabey i was missing something before i started working on it. (Message edited by gbaz on April 24, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
That's what the ignition module does already. When it reads a point that passes 1/2 throttle, it goes to the less aggressive timing curve. The better thing to do is have a module that continuously varies the timing with small changes in TPS readings. Ambient temperature changes should also be taken into account. That's what I'm doing. | ||
| Gbaz |
the aftermarket modules do not allow for varying, its eather on or off. thats why the VOES works. I just dont want to spend $50 for a VOES when i can make one more accurate working off the TPS. What moduel do u intend to use that allows severial different curves depending on the TPS input? | ||
| Reuel |
I'm using the Reuel Attwood special. | ||
| Gbaz |
cool, the hall sensor finds the notches in the timing cup? could u use one of the stock HD setups for ignitions that are not inside the cam cover? | ||
| Reuel |
I'm not familiar with the stock HD setup. All I have is the Blast and pictures of other Buells. My setup is just a prototype. Once it works how I like (the last one had 2 significant issues that required a whole new board) I'll redo it using all surface mount components, and it'll go where the stock goes now. (Message edited by Reuel on April 25, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
Oh, Hey! You can use a simple comparator circuit to get a digital on/off according to the voltage you get from the TPS. PM me if you need details. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You could use many of the stock HD/Buell ignitions on the Blast. You'd probably have to use a twin (or 2 notch) timing cup as most ignitions would think you were running at 1/2 rpms. You'd also have to match most components.I dont know about the Twin Cams, but anything with a 2 hole timing cover should be interchangeable. You could even convert back to points! If your good with wiring diagrams should be easy. I've thought about using one, but the nose cone complete unit is much too easy to use. I would love to find a stock HD module set up that ran to 7500rpm! | ||
| Berkshire |
Me likey the Reuel-Attwood Special! After reading about Erik's SE module failures I'm crossing my fingers, and will start carrying my stock module as a backup on long rides! It seems like durability might be improved if only the hall-effect sensor were mounted in the stock location, with all the rest of it in a box in a cooler and less jarring location, like under the seat. Also, dip switches could be accessed easier. Another option would be to add a plug for a remote-mounted micro selector switch (knob) that could be installed in the dash area to switch between programs - that way you could manually adjust for temporary variations in barometric pressure, humidity, fuel quality, etc. | ||
| Ezblast |
My SE is still good after many miles now, and its survived a lot of abuse - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I was thinking there was a bad batch of SE modules that got out. But the recent module episode is not promising  We'll see. If it all the bad modules happened on the same bike, I think there was a different problem. | ||
| Gbaz |
finallg got around to using the gastester i got off of ebay to tune the bikes idle. worked really well. set it at 3.5-4% co, should be arounf 13.1 air/fuel. dont know what it will do to mpg, but it feels a little more peppy. when the sock filter gets in ill compare it to the uni. | ||
| Gbaz |
i was wondering, is everyone using the outerwares sock filter only using the sock filter as their primary air filter? i know it filters .005", but thats equal to 127 microns. most air filter web sites ive been to list 10-20 micron particles as being the ones that damage most engines. So are yall using some foam filter under the outerwares, or yall dont mind rebuilding the engine a little sooner? | ||
| Ezblast |
If its smaller than a speck of dust - I'm not going to worry about it. Since anything smaller than that will be consumed in the combustion, just as the epa allows all that oil contaminate into the motor - this being a lot less, there should be no harm. EZ | ||
| Naustin |
I went back to the stock exhaust from the bub. The bike is currently jetted 45/175. It seems a little rich, so I'll probably go back to either stock (42/170) or maybe try the 45/170 combo first. Any idea roughly where I'm going to need to be on the idle mixture screw? 2 turns out instead of 2.5. Anybody know what the stock setting was. I'm not going to monkey around with a dyno... So, the closer I can get the first time is better. Thanks... | ||
| Ezblast |
Go 45/170 and enjoy - try 2 1/4 turns - total stock was 2 turns - still get pops on real cold days. EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Thanks - that's what I needed to know... | ||
| Fast1075 |
There is a huge difference between the oil contaminate and the dust...the oil is well...oil...it may foul a plug and cause carbon deposits, but otherwise is harmless. The dust on the other hand is extremely harmful...dust is mainly silicates...the material is harder than the metal the motor is made from...not only does it wear the top end (piston, cylinder, rings, valve guides, valves and seats)...it also gets into the crankcase and wears away at the rest of the engine, including the crank and rod bearings... Not a major factor short term...unless you ride in really dusty areas...but long term will still be a problem. The particle size has a great deal to do with the damage...large particles may well go thru the motor and out the exhaust without much problem...it's the very fine stuff that sticks... The longest lived motors have three things in common...good filtration....quality lubricant...and clean lubricant... I admit in a P3 the temptation to run filterless is enormous...I actually rode mine saturday with no filter at all...it looks soooooo good without that big ugly housing...and alternatives are difficult to fit...it's a shame there is nowhere to hide a decent filter out of view...or out of the way of your knee... Frequent oil changes will help to some degree...but I will tell you that many basket cases (where I put the parts in the basket waiting for the customer to come pick them up) were directly due to long term operation without filtration... | ||
| Ezblast |
That sludge is whatever the engine head pukes up - that can be all kinds of dust particles and metal and whatever else the head pukes up besides oil and water in the line - lol - Also: I change my oil every 2000 miles, and that filtration will stop all but the least sizes of particles - and after 15,000 miles on both- I feel confident about my intake. EZ | ||
| Gbaz |
it comes down to what your willing to live with. i havent had a chance to compare the uni to the outerwares, but i think the outerwares seems to pull a little harder. im going to put the uni back on though, and maybe i can think up a better attachment system. mabey get some plactic tube and cut and weld the angles needed to keep the filter out of the way. or go to a muffler shop and see if they can bend some thin wall tube.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You could just buy the ProSeries elbow and attach it to that! I like the Uni. It made very little difference in A/F mixture on or off, comparable to the open stack w/o outerwears. In SoCal you really dont want to take a chance running unfiltered/less filtered. | ||
| Ezblast |
I'll bet the Outerwear filters as good as a Uni - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think I'd rather trust a 1/2 in of foam, than just the Outerwears. Uni filters even better if you oil it! The 2 stage Uni is better still. Optimum is Uni with Outerwears! An unoiled Uni single stage may be equal with the Outerwears in filtration, but I'm waiting for EZ to provide me with the specs (I know he's got em!) Really, when the sand gets blowing around (especially at Willow Springs Racetrack) you dont want the carb unprotected. |
