| Author | Message | ||
     Luckyduck |
Perhaps you can explain what you mean by lugging. The rattle is loudest when it is pulling very light load on flats and down hills. I thought to lug an engine you had to have it pulling a load. After going for a ride to check it out, it rattles just as much in 2nd, only faster. 4th gear makes it pretty much go away. 3rd gear rattles up to 45mph or so and then the wind is getting loud enough to almost cover it, but I can still feel it through my foot as long as I am not accelerating hard. Tried tightening the adjuster, it makes it quieter and shift poorly. So, you folks do NOT get that pounding on the inside of the case sound when running easy? Dang, I didn't want to have to rebuild that too. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
If you have already adjusted your primary - then you have other issues - adjust first - then if you have sounds - investigate. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Check for loose crankshaft sprocket nut. Don't wait to diagnose the problem as you may be wearing the crank spline away! Didn't I just say that? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A 2006 should not need a rebuild anytime soon. The bottom end (anything below the cylinder) can take a lot of abuse. I dont shift to 2nd until (usually)30mph, sometimes 25mph, sometimes 40mph! Lugging: (try my best).You could run all day in 5th gear at 45mph, on flat land, as long as you dont try and accelerate. If you try to the engine doesnt have enough 'power' to accelerate in 5th and the engine starts to shake excessively. Thats lugging. Or running the engine under load (light or heavy) at low rpms and it starts to shake (usually violently). Or plainly running the engine at too low rpms for the work you're asking it to do. Its fairly common for new riders (especially new Blast riders regardless of experience) to not want to rev the engine real high in any gear. You can get away with that on a twin, but not on a single cylinder. Lastly, high rpms wear out the top end. Low rpms wear out the bottom end. [usually]. The top end is much easier and much cheaper to repair than a bottom end and since the Blast uses a twin bottom end it should last a looong time. So you're not really doing yourself any favours by keeping the rpms low. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It is possible you have other problems caused by an abusive first owner. The Blast can also be noisy compared to other bikes or you might be hearing something else, such as engine knock & ping or even a loose exhaust, kickstand, footpegs or? and yes I think you just said that too! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
What??? an abusive first owner?? Who would abuse a blast? lol If I'm not paying attention I'll lug mine all the time, then quickly down shift.. Erik is dead on right. I lug my Road King and the rattle is hardly noticeable. I lug the Blast and it sounds like all heck is breaking lose. It sounds Odd.. But... for a half liter one cylinder.. it seems to like the upper RPMs. | ||
| Luckyduck |
Found it, I think. Changed out primary fluid. Had 3/4 quart come out and 1 quart go in. Much quieter now. Funny how oil makes things run so much smoother. It is a high of 42 out today, so it was not a long test ride. Maybe when it gets cold I will check the crankshaft sprocket nut. So, you guys run at what 5-6k rpms all the time? Isn't that annoying just running around town? Maybe it is my stock exhaust and intake that keep it from wanting to rev up. Right now more RPM's just make it louder, not much faster. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
Depends how you work them - and if you got enough to work with - lol - I keep it between 3500 to 7000 generally - yeah she spits oil at extended rpms above 5000 - but I check on it at least twice a week - keeping a constant level - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Luckyduck |
Well, it was a balmy 50 today, so took it out and after about 25 miles it started rattling again. So down shifted, still rattle, 30 mph in 1st gear and it was still rattling. EZ: My bike definitely is quicker to just upshift at about 5k or so than wait till it wheezes up to the rev limiter. Guess I'll be taking it apart. Is there any thing I should do while in there to get it to shift into first when cold? Right now if I start in neutral to let it warm up and try to shift to first it grinds bad, but can be forced into first. If I start in first and hold the clutch in until it warms up it shifts ok. Well, as good as it shifts. Maybe I'll get lucky and the POS will start on fire and burn. Besides rattling like it is falling apart, it has left me stranded 3 times in the 2500 miles I've driven it. (drive belt, carb boot, and broken battery cable) For the last couple months I have been afraid to drive it much farther than I am willing to walk home. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
Primary gasket, primary inspection gasket, drain plug o-ring, shift shaft seal, new primary adjuster shoe - take her all the way - pulling the clutch and other side and chain as a unit - chamfer the edges of the stator wire protection plate, do the shift-pawl adjustment, replace the adjuster shoe, inspect drum pins - tap long back to same length as rest, check that detent clip is solid - replace if looks worn or loose. If you follow the manual - step by step on re-assembly - becoming a Buell tech in the process - your bike will be a smooth shifting machine - with only the first cold shift being a hard clank - and the rest is just - clicks - all day long - I have installed the shift shaft seal with the cover both on and off the bike with equal results - if you haven't done it before - get an extra - they are inexpensive - its really pretty straight forward - torque wrench, 4 1/2 flat metal bar with rounded edges, large sockets - thats the specialized tools - the rest are basic. Its a rewarding chore. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
I agree with Ezblast, Just Do It! You will be rewarded for your efforts. Luckyduck, is your carb adjusted properly? Adjusting your idle air mixture screw, and having a larger sized primary jet will help with warming up and running in the cold weather. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, we dont run at 5k-6k rpm all the time, we just shift at the higher rpms. If your shifting the Blast at low rpms its gonna shake and buck unless your very light on the throttle. Seems to me that if your having this many problems with your Blast, something is wrong. Except for 1st to 2nd gears all other gears should shift very easy, even at EZ's or my extended redlines (7500). Shouldnt be rattling so much either. PS running at 7000+ rpm sounds freakin awesome! No bad rattling either. | ||
| Buellistic |
If the SHOE,adjuster PN 39946-00Y is deeply GROVE'edD by the PRIMARY CHAIN the "CHAIN" is being improperly ADJUSTED !!! The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is not correct enough and the THUMPer "GUESS" is not much better !!! | ||
| Luckyduck |
My biggest frustration is that if I wanted to build a dang motorcycle, I would have done one much different than the Blast. My goal with this bike was to have something to just drive and not dink around with all the time. EZ: Your list of what to do makes my head hurt just reading it, sounds like a couple months, plus tools since I don't have a machine shop to make them. I have already done the carb and boot, the failed drive belt and pulleys, rewired some wiring that was installed to rub, filed/bent the gas tank mounting hardware to fit straight and removed and remounted the rear frame to be straight. The headlight has worked great, though. What is funny is that when it was sitting at the dealer next to a new Blast it looked so good we had to turn on the keys to figure out which one was used and which one was new. Gearheaderiko: I do agree that something is wrong with the bike. I got it with 1600 miles and have never been able to get it over 80mph, 70-75 is more like what it can hold unless there is much up hill. It also gets 50-52mpg around town, 60mpg if I hold a steady 55mph, 43mpg at 70-75mph. This is with 45/170 jets, stock everything else and the Buell windshield. It now has 4000 miles. No wonder everyone claims it takes 4k miles to break it in, it really takes that long to rebuild every part of the bike as it falls apart. I must be light on the throttle when shifting because it never shakes unless it is right down at idle when shifting. The carb is good, a hotted up 250 dirt bike got me good at carbs, just not a fan of the auto enrichener thingy. The 250 was also good for throttle and clutch feathering as it would smack you in the face with the triple clamp if you got too enthusiastic at a start on pavement.  Buellistic: I will look, but as the manual is what I have and the "by ear" method was no bueno, it is 24 in-lbs and 7 flats out for me until I find better. I am off to get tools and try not to burn it in frustration. Will post updates as it happens. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
How would you know - you switched your primary over to the XB style - sigh GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Luckyduck |
Is the gas mileage about what you guys are getting? It is about 15mpg worse than I was expecting and only about 5mpg better than my friends 80ci Shovel Head and about 10 worse than a fuel injected 883 sportster. Also, you guys just get a clunk going into first gear and not a long grind unless you really stomp on the lever? It works best to let it warm up in neutral, then shut it off and wiggle it into first, then start it again. After that it just grinds a tiny bit going down to first while riding. I'm trying to figure out what to expect from doing the work. Paul | ||
| Buellistic |
Since you have to pull the Clutch to start a BLAST(unless the diode is turned around), just start it in low gear ... It it lurches and will not start this way is a good indication your clutch is improperly adjusted ... | ||
| Jerzydevil |
OK, LaFayette, I'll bite again, what is the "proper" way of adjusting the primary chain on the Blast? Remember, most of us have not changed the shoe to the XB style. FYI, I have adjusted mine as described here (24 inch pounds- not "by ear") with no problems | ||
| Ezblast |
LD - what work there is is not that hard to do - seriously - and worth every penny of the effort and the few parts needed - your looking at an afternoon of work that rewards you with smooth shifting and and a much better running bike overall - I wish the factory took the care the owner does in doing this work - all our bikes would be very smooth machines indeed. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
50-65 mpg unless something is wrong. First gear should clunk (unfortunately). A long grind indicates incorrect clutch adjustment and/or idle too high. With adjustment and practice, it can be done smoothly. Dont bother trying to start it in 1st gear unless its warm. You'll kill a battery quick that way in the cold months and it will lurch. Sounds like you got a Riders Edge bike that was definitely dropped (rear tail misaligned). Quite a few of us flog our Blasts regularly and dont have the problems your having. | ||
| Luckyduck |
Ok, finally got what parts I should need for this. Things I've found. 1. The oil had quite a bit of metal for a second oil change at 2500 miles since the last one. About the same as the first time I changed it at 1500 miles. 4000 total miles on bike. 2. The motor nut is not loose. At least me standing on the end of my torque wrench at 195ft-lbs did not move it. To get more I would need to buy a length of pipe. 3. The top plastic chain guide has about 1mm deep grooves in it. The shoe on the spring has about 2mm deep grooves in it. Replaced them both, and the spring and pin. 4. Since I can't get the nut off the engine sprocket, it looks like a replace the parts and adjust the clutch. If I do manage to get the nut off tomorrow, what kind of tools does it take to remove the clutch? The HD clutch tools referenced in the manual are wicked expensive. Oh yeah, rechecked the title and the PO owned it from 7 to 1641 miles when he traded it in on a fat boy. It may have been treated poorly, but not in a class. Paul | ||
| Buellistic |
Luckyduck: 1. get that when chain is run TOO TIGHT !!! 2. usually tight from factory ... 3. a)indicates chain ran TOO LOOSE at some point in time ... IMHO this part should removed and discarded before it breaks some point and falls into the chain ... b) 2000 model had second spring hole in shoe for max. tension which was TOO MUCH which with adjusting chain TOO TIGHT would groove the shoe ... 4. no need to take nut off unless there is a reason to ??? LOOK AT THE PICTURES OF THE FACTORY TOOL AND IMPROVISE ... | ||
| Swampy |
I'm with Buellistic on this, the only reason to take the crank nut off would be to remove the sprocket to clean up the sharp edges on the retainer plate for the stator wires. I would just spray some brake clean in-on-under the plate and force some silicone under the plate to help keep the wires from moving. The primary chain should be adjusted looser than what is indicated in the manual. Too tight and you will have a whole bunch of problems, too loose and it makes noise. The tool that is used to lock the crank sprocket is nothing more that a piece of metal plate that is cut to a length that will make contact between the crank sprocket teeth and clutch hub teeth. The clutch hub will come off without disassembling the clutch. All you need to do is remove the snap ring that holds the clutch adjustment shaft and throwout bearing retainer in place and remove the nut on the input shaft. The nut on the input shaft is left handed threads(Righty-Loosey, Lefty-tighty). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The clutch assembly doesnt have to be taken apart, just slid off the shaft. So you really wont need any extra special tools. The clutch assembly should be okay anyway. You'll just need to see how tight it fits on the shaft. If there is excessive 'wiggle' some part of the clutch assembly may need to be replaced. If you go this far. Shouldnt have a problem with the clutch hub assembly at 4000 miles...but? | ||
| Ezblast |
Your lucky - my red bike had like 9 owners before me - one nut is reverse threaded - manual mentions it - It really isn't that hard to take off - a breaker-bar and a cheater pipe on that will do it - your in that far - I'd do everything I could to help from repeating the procedures - my earlier post mentioned everything I could think of to do - if any one has anything else - let us know! - lol - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
excessive "wiggle" of some part of clutch assembly is another result of adjusting primary chain TOO TIGHT !!! | ||
| Luckyduck |
Hey Buellistic, Yeah, it looks like the chain was too tight. And too loose. At least it was a happy surprise to not have anything major broken in there. B. when you run your primary so loose does it rattle bad, or does your XB primary cover somehow keep it controlled a bit? It would be nice to hear another Blast and see if they are all loud in the primary or if mine is just special that way. It will be nice to get this done. Then hopefully by spring I can get the engine worked over. The day before taking it apart I had it out and tried to redline it in first to get a baseline on primary noise vs rpm. It wouldn't get up to the rev limiter. So you will soon be seeing a topic from me in another engine section. Thanks again for all the advice, even if I don't do ALL of it, and please let me know how loud a "good" Blast primary is. My previous bikes have all been overhead cam dirt bikes where the clacking noises are in the heads and the bottom end is quiet. The Blast seems rather the opposite. Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
I adjust to the loose side - less harm overall, I always have a slight whir sound and sometimes other slight sounds till its warmed up with 1/2 hr riding - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Luckyduck |
Just got back from a test ride. 1/2 hour warm up ride is NOT going to happen at 32 degrees. Went through the whole EZ suggestion except the stator cover thing. Now it shifts great in 2-5 with 1 still being clunky. The miniature miners on meth inside my primary have definitely been evacuated and it sounds much better. My fingers were cold, so I did not do a real careful primary adjustment, just used my fingers until the bolt touched the bottom of the shoe and then backed out a half turn. Will do better when warmed up. Having the clutch, etc adjusted makes it noticeably faster. It slammed right up to the rev limiter in first and second. Thanks again. Paul | ||
| Lostguy |
Hey just a really stupid question but I dont have a manual or have any buell know how but on a 2000 Buell blast removing the primary cover has given me a lot of trouble im just trying to install new gasket to stop leak. Is there anything special to this all visible bolts are removed I left clutch cable on but that cover is stuck I can pry the edges apart a little but I dont want to break anything. If someone has some info Id appreciate it. |
