| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
I'm correcting myself - thanks to some reading Eric and Ralph sent me - actually yes the Thunderstorm head - non XB - actually should work with the Blast piston - you'd still have to check for clearance issues and needs shorter push rods - but if you where doing that head - surely with a better cam - perhaps stock push rods would work out - someone would have to report on that - I've only read of it a long time ago and since then everyone else has been using the XB head because of its higher modification potential for maximum performance - leaving the others left behind I'm afraid. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
If it was actually designed for the head and not a generic - yes - but more power can also demand more fuel - what is funny is how far the drop in jetting actually is - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
EZ What kind of jetting drop did you see? | ||
| Ezblast |
45 primary - but instead of at 14 af down to 13.5 af, and 160 main at 13 to 12.5 af but this is with a Dial-A-Jet set at the minimum to just go off if it detects a lean condition adding a half jet size to both - a 45/155 for a regular Blast CV40 carbed motor would be closer to a more acceptable af, and for me, but I wanted my top a bit rich because leaness helped trash the last build - lol - the black bikes abilities with stock like mileage is a bonus that always makes me smile at the pump - did 107 miles and added 1.97 gal.s to totally fill up after an Alice ride and I was not being gentle. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 04, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
Either your 02 sensor is bad or the gauge is bad !!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Those where done on a dyno - Scudieria's to be exact - and no they where not bad. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
"LEANESS HELPED TRASH THE LAST BUILD ???" | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - an intake leak and a hot plug - before the plug switchover 10r12 was common knowledge - I actually thought the vendor knew what they were talking about - wrong! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Some tuners "KNOW" !!! | ||
| Ezblast |
True, and some learn. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Understand that comments posted on the discussion forum represent only the views of their authors and in no way may be construed as representing the views of BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record. Users will never hold BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record responsible for any content posted by users of the discussion board. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on September 04, 2007) | ||
| Ezblast |
 | ||
| Rainman |
I'm lost. The sad thing is, even if y'all tried to explain, I'd still be lost. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Good to see you again Erik!!! Nice suit! Rainman Just ignore every other post and the headache will go away. This was lifted from Wikipedia, I hope this isn't infringing on any copyright laws... If it is I hope the moderators will bail me out and delete it quickly. A mixture is the working point that modern engine management systems employing fuel injection attempt to achieve in light load cruise situations. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture - given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane). In reality, most fuels consist of a combination of heptane, octane, a handful of other alkanes, plus additives including detergents, and possibly oxygenators such as MTBE (Methyl tertiary-butyl ether) or ethanol/methanol. These compounds all alter the stoichiometric ratio, with most of the additives pushing the ratio downward (oxygenators bring extra oxygen to the combustion event in liquid form that is released at time of combustions; for MTBE-laden fuel, a stoichiometric ratio can be as low as 14.1:1). Vehicles using an oxygen sensor(s) or other feedback-loop to control fuel to air ratios (usually by controlling fuel volume) will usually compensate automatically for this change in the fuel's stoichiometric rate by measuring the exhaust gas composition, while vehicles without such controls (such as most motorcycles, and cars predating the mid-1970's) may have difficulties running certain boutique blends of fuels (esp. winter fuels used in some areas) and may need to be rejetted (or otherwise have the fueling ratios altered) to compensate for special boutique fuel mixes. Vehicles using oxygen sensors enable the air-fuel ratio to be monitored by means of an air fuel ratio meter. Lean mixtures produce cooler combustion gases than does a stoichiometric mixture, primarily due to the excessive dilution by unconsumed oxygen and its associated nitrogen. Rich mixtures also produce cooler combustion gases than does a stoichiometric mixture, primarily due to the excessive amount of carbon which oxidises to form carbon monoxide, rather than carbon dioxide. The chemical reaction oxidising carbon to form carbon monoxide releases significantly less heat than the similar reaction to form carbon dioxide. (Carbon monoxide retains significant potential chemical energy. It is itself a fuel whereas carbon dioxide is not.) Lean mixtures and rich mixtures, when consumed in an internal combustion engine, both produce less power than does the stoichiometric mixture. Similarly, lean mixtures and rich mixtures return poorer fuel efficiency than the best mixture. (The mixture for the best fuel efficiency is slightly different to the stoichiometric mixture. (Message edited by slowhand96 on September 05, 2007) | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Rainman.. The O2 sensor that was talked about. "Vehicles using oxygen sensors enable the air-fuel ratio to be monitored by means of an air fuel ratio meter." O2 Sensor = Oxygen sensor (Message edited by slowhand96 on September 05, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
duh !!!, LEAN runs "COOLER" ??? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
     OUCH!!! You got me good LaFayette! (Message edited by slowhand96 on September 05, 2007) | ||
| Jimrich |
| ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Well, the Blast is in critical condition. Had some strange noises from the primary... Tore her open last night, found alot of steel fragments and alum dust. The drive sprocket nut must have backed out, which caused the chain to hit the cover (alum dust), then the splines on the crank shared off (steel fragments) Anyone know a good 20% off online retailer? I need to look up the price of a new crank (anyone know of a stroker crank for the blast?) ..and hopefully not much else...the drive sprocket looks ok, prolly need to replace the clutch disks, and of course clean EVERYTHING when I (eventually) split the cases.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Revolution Performance www.revperf.com can help you out with that stroker crank and will give you a Badweb discount if you ask for it. Understand that comments posted on the discussion forum represent only the views of their authors and in no way may be construed as representing the views of BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record. Users will never hold BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record responsible for any content posted by users of the discussion board. | ||
| Buellistic |
Is 1/2 of 90 CI, maybe or close to 750 cc ?? | ||
| Swampy |
I fixed the Big Kids Yellow Blast by putting everything back together and then MIG welding the nut to the crank and the nut to the sprocket. It is a permanent fix, and you are not out anything because you have to replace the crank, sprocket and nut anyways. It has lasted for more than 10,000 miles. I know it is not the right answer but it is a cheap fix, a crank is going to cost around $350, and a hub probably $50, plus gaskets $50, so if you can handle not doing anything to it and just riding, it works. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Dang Swampy, thats a good idea...but what happens if I have to remove the clutch basket or something? Zanotti's lists the crank for $290, list is 341. I do NOT want to split that engine, but I have to give my kid this bike in 5 years, gotta do something  Now off to read the book, and see what kind of horrible things I'm going to have to do to get the engine off the bike...ugh. | ||
| Swampy |
Well if all you have to do is replace the clutch, no problem, nothing has to come apart. The only problem would be a very expensive stator replacement. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
And pray the shifter pawl never needs adjustment.  | ||
| Swampy |
Before welding I would recommend making all the final adjustments....because the next time you need to do it will require a total rebuild... | ||
| No_rice |
what would cause a hard starting problem. i would think if it was the intake boot there would be other symptoms also. it runs good at cruise and under power. idles fine and such. main problem is getting it started when its cold. twist the throttle about 10 times. hit the starter and it usually fires right up. only twist it a time or two when its warm. i am thinking either i need to mess with the idle mixture screw. if you just try to fire it up without touching the throttle it usually wont start. even if you give it a bit of throttle and hit the starter it still usually wont(although it used to work more often than not). 5 to 8 twists it might or might not. 10 and it almost always does. any other bright ideas? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Interesting. Since the Blast carb doesnt have an accelerator pump, its curious as to why twisting the throttle 10 times makes a difference in starting. Is the key on when you're twisting? Is that somehow freeing up the enrichener? Is it reseting the ignition module somehow? Or just a coincidence. Have you checked the spark? Is it consistent or does it vary with the amount of twisting? Bad spark plug and clogged slow jet can cause hard starting (as well as 'das boot'). Have you drilled out the mixture screw? Understand that comments posted on the discussion forum represent only the views of their authors and in no way may be construed as representing the views of BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record. Users will never hold BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record responsible for any content posted by users of the discussion board. | ||
| No_rice |
the key is off. im not sure why it helps, but if you do that the 10 times or so it pops right off. if you dont you could spend the next couple minutes trying to get it to start, because then it usually doesnt even try to pop off and run. now if you do the twist the throttle thing again then it seems to fire up. hmm maybe the slow jet is a little clogged or something... havent checked the spark as once it seems to get fuel (my thinking is fuel related anyway)it pops right off. maybe i need to check out the slow jet. and no i havent drilled out the idle mixture screw as of yet | ||
| Swampy |
Check your kill switch wiring at the handle bars. Pull your fuel tank, check your ignition wire, and coil mounting and connections. Follow your throttle cables down to look for chaffing on any wires. |
