| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Tranny Fluid Change Needed tools: Something to hold your bike vertical. I used two jackstands and a piece of rod going through the rear axle to support my bike. More than one T27 torx wrench/socket bit, unless you have a really strong bit/wrench like SnapOn. 3/8 drive ratchet with long extensions and universal sockets or adapter, and a swivil come in handy. 7/16 O-ring, incase your drain plug O-ring needs replacing (mine was completely severed) The job isn't as easy as it oughta be. There's a clutch inspection cover plate just behind the left foot peg. It has 3 Torx #27 screws holding it on. These screws are notorious for being difficult to remove. Most people end up stripping them. You're gonna want to have 3 or more different T27 torx wrenches. Another poster recommended wrenches from ACE Hardware. Personally, I twisted and broke a couple of torx bits when I did my fluid replacement. I used a bit and a cheap ratchet and tapped on the head of the ratchet with a hammer at the same time as applying turning force to break the screws free. You definately need to use the correct size wrench and push it firmly down into the screw head or you will strip out the screw for sure. Before you can remove this cover plate though, you need to: 1. disconnect the battery (neg. first) 2. remove the drain plug on the bottom of the crankcase. (difficult if you have the stock muffler.) Tip: A plastic gallon milk jug cut in half on a vertical with the handle down - then use the handle half of the jug as a funnel/catch for the trans oil. 3. loosen the 3 footpeg support bracket nuts. In order to access these, remove the seat and the battery. They are located inside the frame where the foot peg support bracket connects to the backbone/frame. I can't remember what size the nuts were. You'll be in pure expletive spurting agony if you don't use a ratchet w/ long extension and universal/swivel sockets/adapter to get these nuts. You want to loosen these nuts as far as you can without them coming off from the studs, this will loosen the footpeg support bracket enough so that you can access the clutch cover plate screws. 4.Replace the drain plug of course. 5. Refill the trans fluid with HD Sport Trans fluid 7/8 to 1 qt.(You may want to consider switching to Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil and Redline 75/90 weight tranny oil at this point). I found that a funnel along with a short piece of hose worked well to get the fluid in through the clutch inspection cover opening. When you look through the opening you'll see the teeth of a large gear. The correct fluid level is to just barely submerge the bottom most tooth, such that the fluid reaches up to the bottom of the troughs on each side of the tooth. 6. Thouroughly clean the mating surfaces between the gasket and cover plate. The factory service manual says to replace the inspection cover gasket. 7.Replace (don't forget the spring) the cover and tighten the Torx screws in a cross patern to 7-9 Ft-lbs. (I personally switched to allen head screws replacing the t-27 headed ones;0)) 8. Tighten bolts of footpeg suport bracket.Done. Oil Fluid Change 1. Need needle nose plyers, a filter wrench, and a milk jug along with the other half of one you used in your trans fluid change, and newspapers. 2.unplug oil and drain lines and place in jug - let drain, open top oil fill to assist in drainage. 3. When oil is done dripping - plug it up and the vent drain as well. 4.put that flat tray/milkjug half under filter(with newspapers under that)and using a filter wrench procede to remove filter. 5.Put a seal of oil on the oil seal of the new filter and screw on till hand tight then snugged. 6. Add 1 3/4 quarts of your favorite synth. 7. Put the cap back on, give the bike a 10 min. spin and then check your oil level and adjust from there. Done. Got Thump!? Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 27, 2004) | ||
| 68rapido |
Okay, I wanted to drain the tranny on my blast, but I loosened the primary bolt instead. I had it unscrewed down to the stock exhaust before I realized I had the wrong bolt. My question is did I mess up anything like unscrew the primary adjuster, or do I just have to readjust the primary chain? Is Mobil 1 75w90 okay for the tranny? Thanks, Mark. | ||
| Ezblast |
Your probably ok if you haven't moved the bike - (otherwise I'm not sure, I'll check a manuall, but if no movement should be ok) Yes - you need to adjust your primary, and yes that is a preferred brand. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  edited by ezblast on August 06, 2003 | ||
| Jprovo |
Mark, You didn't screw anything up, just readjust the primary chain. Mobil 1 75w90 is fine, quite a few people run it. James | ||
| Reepicheep |
On my Cyclone, a $8 quart of Mobil 1 gear oil did more to improve my shifting then a $200 Banke shifter assembly (which also helped bunches, and looks much cooler). | ||
| 68rapido |
Thanks for the info, gotta get a shop manuel. The bike does seem to shift alot better with the Mobil 1. What a pain to change, but worth it. | ||
| Shotgun |
"What a pain to change, but worth it." Drill some holes in your left side foot peg brace so you can access all the torx bolts in the cover and a bigger one (1/2"  in the center) and you can adjust your clutch as well without removing that foot peg brace. The studs on that thing are way too long for nylon nuts, as I have pointed out to the factory. Or, if you aren't gonna be riding with a passenger, switch to rear-sets and get rid of the factory stuff and you have full time access to the innards of your primary. | ||
| Darthane |
The footpeg mount nuts are 14mm, EZ. I've unfortunately gotten very, very good at removing that damned thing, and even so I still end up whacking my knuckles and cursing up a storm every time I have to change the tranny fluid. Bryan (Yes but the o-ring is 7/16" - lol - Moderator) edited by ezblast on August 25, 2003 | ||
| Blackhat |
How about oil filter numbers, anyone know of any good ones outside of the Harley items. I'm not a boycotter of Harley Products, but I do get tired of paying for that name when there's better, or as good, stuff elsewhere. Awesome post and great information, by the way. Blackhat | ||
| Swampy |
Optional Oil filter is a Walmart Supertech #4967 I haven't tried one yet but I found it in another forum in the Badweb so it has to be good. (Its good - Moderator) edited by ezblast on October 20, 2003 | ||
| Mmelvis |
Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, which weight should be used in the tranny ? Guess I should ask same for the engine oil. edited by mmelvis on October 27, 2003 | ||
| Ezblast |
Howdy John - Mobil 1 synth gear oil - 1 qt. - 75w90 for the tranny and your choice of the car 15w50 or the motorcycle 20w50 - 2 qts. - for the engine. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Mmelvis |
Thanks Ezblast, Just wanted to make sure I was reading all the prev posts correctly. Well was able to complete the tranny fluid change with out pulling the footpeg support. Drilled one hole for the top screw only took about 15 minutes to drill a nice hole. Just need to pick up a plastic plug to place in the hole until the next fluid change. Screws have also been replaced so I do not have to use the torx bit again on this location. Thanks to all for all the helpful posts. edited by mmelvis on October 27, 2003 | ||
| Joey |
Another question while we're on the transmission: What size is the o-ring on the clutch cable that goes into the transmission? | ||
| Rmorin128 |
Does anyone know a trick for removing the drain plug for the transmission with the stock exhaust in place? It seems like the bolt is just a little too long to just slide out. | ||
| Swampy |
You have to move the exhaust out of the way. Just the rear mount and then take a big pry bar or the cheap wood handled screw driver and wedge it between the muffler and case and leave it there until you put the plug back in. | ||
| Rmorin128 |
Cool... Thanks Swampy. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
When I had the stock exhaust on, I just left the plug in place when I drained the fluid and cleaned it off with some brakleen before I screwed it back in. | ||
| Swampy |
Erik That sounds like the easier way! I like that better than the big screwdriver! | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
nevermind (Message edited by mutt2jeff on March 10, 2005) | ||
| Ezblast |
Now if you could do an oil change step by step like the above - we'd be set! Great job! As you can see I put it in the topic header to never get lost in words - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Now if you could do an oil change step by step like the above - we'd be set! Great job! As you can see I put it in the topic header to never get lost in words - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ Thanks, I will do it next time i change my oil, probably in a week or two. | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci'  GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Prozac235 |
Wow thanks for all the info. New owner here (just bought it for my wife) and this info is greatly appreciated. | ||
| Mygirlspurplethumper |
Thank You to everyone here for helping out with the Trans Fluid Change. A lot easier with seeing someone else do it first. I made my own little handy tool using a Craftsman torx driver and monkey wrench.  Apply preasure with the heel of you palm and use the monkey wrench for leverage... Then replace with allen bolts so you can torq 'em down and don't have to deal with that again!!! | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
I honestly had no problem whatsoever getting my torq bits out, but it seems that i am the only one with that problem. | ||
| Joey |
The only time I had a problem with those torx screws is when a dealer stripped one out. EZOut saved me. I just stick a standard torx wrench (like those allen wrenches) on it and put an adjustable wrench on that to give it some leverage. Comes loose with a pop! I was having trouble with my clutch slipping after it was fully engaged. I tried going a heavier weight transmission fluid. Made it worse. This most recent change, I mixed about 8 ounces of 15W50 with 20 ounces of 75W90 and the problem seems to be gone. | ||
| Jerzydevil |
I picked up a set of torx's for ratchets. You can get all the leverage u need w/them. | ||
| Jprovo |
Joey, you might have a clutch adjustment problem. 15W50 motor oil and 75W90 gear oil are actually very close in weight. James | ||
| Joey |
I adjusted my clutch in accordance with the manual when it first started doing this. In first gear, when I'm idling for a few minutes, I let the clutch up, and as I go, it acts like it lets go for several revolutions of the engine, then grabs. It only does it some times, and never at any other time. Aside from that, it works perfectly, except for the occasional extra neutral between 3rd and 4th. |
