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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Diagnosing problems: » Archive through May 20, 2011 » oil leak!!! » Oil leaking from somewhere right beneath seat « Previous Next »

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Abtin2
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2005 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This has been quite the learning experience. :-) Right now, I'm attempting to isolate a problem I've noticed... my oil leak is not simply from what seemed to be the breather connection, but rather from somewhere else. I believe it may be from the rocker, but am not convinced.

I thought if I explained the sympthoms I could get some advise that would be critical before I tackle the disassembly of the rockerbox breathing system.

I've noticed there is quite a bit of oil in the bike... after keeping it on for about 4-5 minutes, I noticed the oil was a bit above the second marker. I am leaning towards this being the problem, but didn't want to limit the possibilities. Of course, I will drain some of the oil... but could this be the cause of the problem?

The bike is having some trouble cold starting. Because it has not received tags, I'm riding around the parking lot :-) but obviously not long enough to really warm up the bike. I leave it idle for about 2 days at a time before turning it back on. I've resorted to using a engine starter fluid (spray into air intake). That gets the motor turned over. Could the excess oil be causing this problem as well?

The breather connection into what I believe was the rocker box disconnected at some point and the bike puked some oil. The last owner must have just poured a bunch of oil in the bike. Could this have damaged the rocker box?

The amount of oil it is leaking is not a large amount, but I haven't ridin the bike for a very long distance.

ANY AND ALL COMMENTS ARE HELPFUL :-)

Thanks!
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Swampy
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2005 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First and formost:

DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID FOR STARTING ANYTHING!

Any engine that gets a taste of starting fluid will quickly become addicted to it like cocain and the only way to cure the addiction is to rebuild the engine. If your engine does not start easily find out why and repair it. Starting fluid is very volitle and will break piston ring lands, blow head gaskets, and reak other havock on your engine.

You can check your engine oil level after warming your engine. 5 or so minutes of running would be fine. As far as the oil leak goes check the breather connections from your rocker box to where it outlets. I have used the plug from the end of the breather hose and used it to plug the outlet into the Air box from the outside of the air box where the Tee connects the three lines together. Then I use a two way connector to replace the three way connector to connect the rocker box hose to the rest of the breather hose down to the swingarm. I leave the vent hose open down by the swing arm. The vent hose can be straighten out to route straight back from the rocker box making the hose 8" longer down by the swing arm. Clean things up and then run the bike and recheck for any leaks. From where you say it is leaking it is probably a cracked Tee, which the above instructions should eliminate.
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Jprovo
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2005 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Swampy, Your bike should not need starting fluid to start, and I would avoid using it.

RE oil leak, I would guess that I'ts a rocker box gasket, but wiht overfilled oil, it could be a breather leak. It sounds like your bike is overfilled, I'd drain ouu a few ounces. Pull the tank and clean the engine real well. Re-route the breather, and then run the bike, and check for leaks. A ton of oil coming from the engine (like oil-soaked pant legs) is more than likely a rocker box gasket.

Good Luck.
James
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Bobbyhead
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swampy, that open breather hose you mention, invites two kinds of trouble. It allows dirt to be drawn in, since you aren't using a breather filter, and it will also allow oil spray to coat your brake rotor and wheel. I read that on this very forum, where it happened just because someone left out the plug. And you are suggesting to do that ? *Bobby
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good point Bbyhd.
Though I didnt run mine down to the ground, I ran it to the frame just above the starter, used a breather filter and drilled a small hole in it to let any oil/moisture accumulation drain. While the risk of sucking something in is small, a filter is cheap insurance.

It should be noted that with over 2000 miles since the top end was done, I've lost almost no oil (undetectable) through the breather or otherwise. A factory stock (non rebuilt) engine will probably blow more oil. I now use a catch can instead for racing.

(Message edited by gearheadErikO on November 01, 2005)
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 06:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The hose is soo long and with the engine running you are not going to suck something into the engine because of the pressure in the crankcase caused by the blowby. In the very old days all cars had road draft tubes that routed crankcase pressure to the ground. Diesel engines up until recently routed crankcase pressure out road draft tubes. It is a matter of emmissions more than anything else.
The oil coating......the tube hangs so low below the swing arm I have not noticed anything on the brake rotor tire or swingarm.

The breather I would be worried about would be the transmission breather. One misdirected shot of water under the seat and up the frame rail could easily introduce water to the transmission.
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Abtin2
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, I'll give Swampy's reroute a try and give an update. By the way, can I pick the two way connector up an any hardware store? Is it a part I have to do a ton of searching for?

Any suggestions?

I'm going change the oil/filter/etc. as soon as possibly this weekend. I'll still do the reroute, because it seems like the 3 way connector can be the cause of problems down the line... (too much pressure may cause it to disconnect again). The first time it disconnected I think it was because I was really reving the engine.

Also, I think at some point I want to learn how to service the rocker box gasket. The person I bought it from has the part, I may just get it from him and let that project sit around for a while. I read in another posting how to do the work. This would be the first "major" (for me at least) work that I would do on the bike... is it something fairly straight forward, or is there a ton of problem solving ahead?

Thanks again!
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any auto parts store would have it.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Abtin2,
Where are you located?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reving the engine will not blow the pcv lines or disconnect them (conceivable, but unlikely).
Just doing the reroute can save you a lot of oil consumption though. Dont panic on the re route either. There's not much that can go wrong, but there's a heck of a lot of tubing associated with it (pcv) and it may seem confusing.Essentially all you are doing is running 1 hose straight from the pcv valve (rocker cover) to the ground!

(Message edited by gearheadErikO on November 01, 2005)
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Abtin2
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gearheaderiko, where did you come across the "breather filter"?

My concerns are over the rockerbox repair... I think the reroute will be somewhat easy.

Thanks for the info EZ and swampy... I'll take a look at my hardware store tonight.

I live in Maryland, close to DC. Where are you guys from?
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Michigan,
I picked up a Jeep for my wife a couple of years back in Waldorf, MD.
I spent 3 hours on the beltway going 20 miles to go across the Delaware to drop a rental car off in Springfield, VA. It probably would have taken less time to take the southern route.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Breather filter or crankcase vent filters are available from www.denniskirk.com and probably from some of the Badweb sponsors also.
K & N, Drag Specialties and EMGO make/sell them. Emgo is the cheapest at $6.

An option to finding the 2 way tee is just get (or make) a plug for the extra outlet on the 3 way. You actually have everything you need (except filter) in the pcv lines that came with the bike!
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Abtin2
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gearheaderiko: You literally attached the breather's PCV right to this filter and placed it under the starter?




Also, I have a feeling (I have to check tonight) but the 3 way tee may be damaged.

Swampy: maryland has the WORST TRAFFIC IN THE WORLD -- my biggest concern with this whole bike idea. Obviously you can see the concern... this is my first bike.

Thanks!!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've used the filter on the right on 2 of my bikes.
The Blast's went above the starter. I dont use the stock airbox, so I do not know if it would fit behind it. It could be mounted under the bike/engine/swingarm. Depending on where its mounted you can leave it hanging or zip tie it in place.

PS: In traffic dont be afraid to Use Your Horn!!!!!
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Abtin2
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what type of airbox do you use? I was thinking about changing mine because the person that had the bike was a overweight and because of the constant weight on the seat, warped the airbox (where it is closest to the seat, on the right side). It's difficult to explain, but pretty much she caused the plastic to remold around the area where the two pieces come together (with those plastic clips). This means that some air gets through without being filtered.

Anyways, I noticed that a bunch of people's bikes, including yours, seemed like they did not have the airbox... can you explain that to me a bit?

Thanks.

(Message edited by abtin2 on November 03, 2005)
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Light_keeper
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may want to check this link. There is an article on how to. http://bcrider.com/
Look under our buells and scroll down.

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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The most popular airbox is the Buell Pro Series, about $100.
The problem with almost every non stock airbox is carb support. The stock airbox supports the carb very well. The Pro Series (like others) just leaves the carb hanging by the intake boot, which is the recipe for intake boot failure. You can make your own supports or leave it hang. I think we're split about 50/50 on that here, but most would agree supported is better.Mine is unsupported.

Realistically, just putting on the Pro Series air cleaner will not boost power by a noticable difference. But it looks better than stock!

(Message edited by gearheadErikO on November 04, 2005)
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Xgecko
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes or you could build an intake for about $20 including the filter. Supported is better, mine is supported but unlike others my support is butt ugly...must do something about that this winter...something to think about unsupported = sooner or later your intake boot/hose is going to fail...
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Abtin2
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

as far as I understand (as it is with cars) the carbs are designed for stock air flow... if the air flow is adjusted, the carb will not respond as well... when you say "supported" or "unsupported" do you mean, you've made something that allows the air to flow to the carb more like the stock airbox?

I'm a bit confused...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Supported means a support bracket attached to the carb to hold it in place. The stock airbox does that. Without it it just hangs by the rubber tube which is the intake boot.
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Abtin2
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so does the change in airflow to the carb, from this particular airbox, disrupt it's general performance? In other words, does the carburetor act a bit flaky? Also, why would you not build the support? I'm going to look around for that answer a bit (since i come to work and spend most of my day dreaming of smelling burnt gasoline while moving at 60 mph through the wind :-D)

mondays suck.
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Jugallo94
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There has been much discussion on what supports acutally work for the carb. I had one fabbed up and it worked great now that I can keep the bolts from vibrating out of the support. Others say they dont work and use springs to support the carb. It seems like a personal preference on what to use for a support, but if the stock airbox is removed a support of some sort is definetly needed or you will be replacing a lot of intake boots. I went through two before I had my bracket made up. I ripped one after it was made, but that was my own fault as I was on a long trip and lost a bolt out of the support and didnt replace it. Since I have replaced it, and figured out a way to keep the bolts in I havent torn anymore boots. Also a quick temp fix for the torn boot if you are out and it tears is ducttape.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

}"so does the change in airflow to the carb, from this particular airbox, disrupt it's general performance? In other words, does the carburetor act a bit flaky?" It only improves performance.
"Also, why would you not build the support?" Laziness, the belief that you'll escape the odds,in a perfect world you don't need it, it doesn't come with one,(I haven't gotten around to it),the boot hasn't torn yet....
Some reasons the Pro Series air filter is 'Race Only' is because you give up the carb support and protection from the elements the stock air box affords.
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Abtin2
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2005 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

THE OIL HAS SEIZED LEAKING AND NOW THERE IS A BIT OF GAS!!! LEAKING FROM MY CARBURETOR!!! its not too much, but it's scaring me a bit.... I'm thinking about taking the airbox off and tightening all the screws.

Suggestions???
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Berkshire
Posted on Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 05:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

have you taken the float bowl off recently?

do you switch the fuel valve to "OFF" when the engine isn't running?
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Jprovo
Posted on Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Abtin2 - Describe your leak... Is it a constant drip or stream? Then there is definitely a problem. If you occacsionally have some moisture in the bottom of the intake box, that was a fairly normal occurance on my Blast with the stock airbox. The Blast carb tends to "spit" a little into the airbox when there is intake reversion.
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