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Archive through February 09, 2007Captainkirk30 02-09-07  12:10 am
         

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Sanchez
Posted on Friday, February 09, 2007 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put the Andrews N4 a.k.a stock X1 a.k.a Screamin' Eagle (can't remember the part #) cams in my M2. Some loss in the low end and a noticeable gain at the top.

I advise you not to bother with cams until you really need to. I swapped mine because I already had them out of the bike when I had to replace my cam cover gasket. The amount of work necessary to get the cams out isn't worth the horsepower gains for a daily rider unless you commute to work at 6k rpms. : )

Here are some pictures of my tear down:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/204917.html

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/200839.html
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Jayvee
Posted on Friday, February 09, 2007 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aceboy74, that is real purty. I think it looks better in blue,

Yeah the cams sound like a good idea, until I paid attention to how I ride. I'm a torquer, not a horsepowerer. I don't think I would like the power curve of the Andrews cams as much, is what I mean.

But I would be interested in adapting a race header to a stock muffler. Is the race header just a bit longer? If I shortened the inlet pipe, could I use a race header with a stock muffler?

I want the stock muffler for the quiet sound, the legal aspects here in CA, and also I don't want to repack every 2K miles. Since I'm after torque and not horsepower.

What would you guess, would the race header add anything to the stock muffler?
On my former Yamaha SR500, "expert" Joe Minton said the stock muffler was not the problem but the header pipe, he suggested an aftermarket header but said the stock muffler was fine. Maybe true for M2 too?
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Aceboy74
Posted on Friday, February 09, 2007 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jayvee,
I don't know if the header is any "longer" so to speak, but the pipes are equal length all the way to the inlet. I think that is how they get more power, but I am no expert. I'm just going on what I've heard. Here is a pic of the other side with muffler.
muffler side
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Bad_karma
Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bluzm2
Have you had a chance to verify that there is no change in the advance curve between the race ECM and the factory ECM? I know the two after market ignitions I have do have different curves for installed street curves and the race curve.
Joe
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everything I've seen in the past indicates no curve change except at the top end.
The stocker retards from about 6650 to 6800.

Most 3rd party aftermarket units have adjustable curves.

Brad
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 29460-96Y Race Air Cleaner kit (97-98 Cyclone) that I bought when I had my M2. Never put it on because of my 32" inseam and knee being in the way (stock peg locations, street riding posture, etc.).

On a track bike with higher/rearset pegs I'd think that knee interference would be much less of a problem.

It is new in a somewhat aged/shelf worn box and has all the parts and the instruction sheet. I paid $130 for it and will set it free for that and include mail shipping in the U.S./lower 48. A few buck more to far off and exotic locations.

I'll do a detailed inspection, parts list double check and take some photos for a serious buyer.

You can email me at jacker at midmaine dot com and first come first served.

Jack

(Message edited by jackbequick on February 10, 2007)
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Djkaplan
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I don't know if the header is any "longer" so to speak, but the pipes are equal length all the way to the inlet."

The primary pipes are longer on the race header, but a cursory measurement will show they are not equal length, nor were they designed to be, apparently. I used to think the same thing before I measured the race header primary pipes.
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Jayvee
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, just looking at your pictures shows there is no easy way to "bolt-on" a race header to a stock muffler. The race header just extends too far. Hmmm, I wonder if KDFAB guys could make something special?

I went for a ride yesterday (!) and the sound of the stock pipe is plenty loud enough for me. (Must be gettin' old...)
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Sanchez
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My knee rests on my air filter around town when I'm forward in the seat (S1 seat, mind you). I've gotten so used to it that I don't even notice any more. On the highway or the track, I slide backwards and my knee clears the intake with no problem.
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Djkaplan
Posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"there is no easy way to "bolt-on" a race header to a stock muffler."

It was really easy to modify an aluminum V&H made for a stock header to work on a race header. I cut the 90 degree inlet off and expanded the inlet stub that was left. I shortened the muffler body and the perforated core 2 1/8" and riveted and welded everything back together. I offset the rear mounting holes in the V&H rear hanger to get everything aligned, and everything fits perfectly and securely. I don't have the problem with the muffler creeping off the header because it's bottomed out hard on the rear hanger - it ain't going no place.

I never even tried to use the stainless steel race muffler. It was just too heavy and crude.
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