| Author | Message | ||
     Nudepotato |
My clutch recently began slipping in my '96 S2 Thunderbolt. I adjusted my clutch according to the S2 service manual with no improvement. I ordered a Barnett Extra Plate Clutch Kit before I actually disassembled my clutch in my bike. When I did, I pulled out 9 friction plates and 8 steel plates (with no spring plate). When the kit came in, it has 8 friction plates, 8 steel plates, and a bag with what looks like 2 smaller steel plates and a small friction plate. After reading the instructions, it calls the 2 small steel plates 'small flat steel damper seat' and the small friction plate a 'B fiber plate'. I'm good with the instructions thus far, and that would make up for my missing plate, but there are explicit instructions on the bag that read 'HDP-11 Extra Plate Kits: When Using This Kit, Omit Riveted Double Steel Plate.' I have no idea what this 'riveted double steel plate is. This isn't referring to the 'small flat steel damper seat' is it? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to put this guy back together tomorrow afternoon. Thanks!  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Riveted double steel plate is most likely the spring plate from your stock clutch. Since when you look at it, it looks just like a riveted double steel plate. Should be able to just compare the stack heights on both clutches and go from there before you put in the new kit, as long as the new kit is only a little thicker (accounting for fiber plate wear on the old one). | ||
| Lynrd |
I can confirm - they mean the spring plate that goes in the center of a stock clutch pack. Also - from first hand experience - pay heed to any instructions around soaking the plates before install. The clutch is extremely grabby if you miss that step. | ||
| Hootowl |
Deleting the spring plate, called a "grenade plate" by some, is a pretty common thing. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" DID the OEM PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT option and saved the BIG BUCKS !!! ie: Replaced the SPRING PLATE(aka "GRENADE PLATE") PN 37977-90 with TWO(2) STEEL PLATEs PN 37913-90 and ONE(1) FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 ... Want a copy of the SAVE THE BIG BUCKS option, just PM me for a HELP "INFO" COPY, "PLUS" a few other bits of information ... | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Sounds like the PO already eliminated the so called grenade plate. The Barnett extra plate kit should come with 9 frictions and 8 steels, nothing else. The pieces in your picture do not look correct. Check your part numbers and call Barnett. | ||
| Nudepotato |
Thanks for all of the replies. I did call the manufacturer to make sure I had the right kit, and I did. They also reassured me that the double steel riveted plate would be in the stock clutch kit, which apparently had already been replaced by a previous owner. Also, I was sure to soak the plates in transmission fluid. I soaked it overnight in a ziplock bag. I borrowed some digital calipers from work and measured the old friction plates vs. the new plates. The old plates measured approximately .060 in while the new plates measured .087 in. To the naked eye, I couldn't really tell the difference, but the old ones were definitely out of spec. I put the plates in as directed by the instructions with the kit and the last plate fit almost exactly flush with the clutch hub. I was a little worried at first because I had a hard time getting that last friction plate to stay. Long story short, I ended getting everything back together, and as I was completing the last step of adding transmission fluid, I realized that I had forgot to put the drain plug back in, so half of my fluid is in my garage floor. Tomorrow I'll swing by the Harley shop and pick up another quart of transmission fluid and try it out. By all indications, I think it looks and feels pretty good. Again, thanks for all of the help. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" run engine oil in my transmission because if the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad just where do you think the transmission fluid is going to go ??? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The transmission fluid will stay in the transmission. The engine side is pressurized. When the seal goes bad, you can see the level of the tranny rise and overfill itself. When drained, you will see the tranny juice is dark like the engine oil. That having been said, I agree with using engine oil in there so long as it's not full of friction modifiers and other oddities that would harm your alternator's insulation. | ||
| Jimi_james |
So the bottom line here is to remove the spring plate and install the extra discs the kit comes with? Just asking I'm in the process of doing this change. Mainly because I needed to replace the gasket. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Yup. ...and put the drain plug in before refilling the primary case  | ||
| Nudepotato |
Yes. I followed the instructions that came with the plates (putting in the two steel damper plates and the smaller friction plate, then alternating steel/friction). There was no spring plate to install. 2 weeks later and the bike is running like a top. Thanks again everyone for the advice. | ||
| Buellistic |
Is that why the gaskets: base, rocker covers, push rod covers, and timing gear cover weep oil ??? | ||
| Jimi_james |
Did you put oil between the discs? I put a little oil thinking it is a wet clutch design so oil would be there, however I took it for a test hit and the clutch felt as if it were no fully disengaging. | ||
| Jimi_james |
Well found a new fiber disc mixed in with the old one. Put it back in and ran like normal, but I having issues hit neutral clearly. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Did you soak your plates overnight in your trans fluid/oil before putting it together? If not, those new fiber plates will be really grabby - making clutch adjustment a bit difficult to sort. If so, double check you chain tension, I believe Buellistic's recommendation for a little more slack is best for proper tension, I don't recall the spec so I'm not going to guess at it here. If you have to adjust your primary chain tension you'll want to readjust your clutch afterward. | ||
| Sparky |
To make it easier to get into neutral, try slightly revving the engine while gently pushing the shift lever towards neutral. The increased engine vibes usually overcomes stiction in the gear changer to find neutral easier. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Before I start the bike I pull in the clutch lever put the bike in first gear and roll it backwards to free the clutch plates. Then when I start the bike it drops into 1st gear without protest. |
