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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through March 08, 2013 » DIY: Front brake rotor retrofit (and wheel removal) « Previous Next »

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Dom
Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

took some pics yesterday of the process I went through to update my 99 rotor to a 00+ rotor without the shakes.

got it up on stands first


next was to remove the pads and then the caliper




then you just pull the pads out the side and next is the 2 caliper mounting allen head bolts


I didn't disconnect my brake hose, instead I just sat my caliper up on the exhaust, worked out just fine for me.


I set my front wheel back on the ground for the actual axle bolt loosening since I didn't have a breaker bar. I believe the axle nut was a 15/16th or that's at least what worked for me



Then the last bolts are the 4 pinch bolts on the forks that you loosen up.


After that you basically just have to slide the axle out from the forks on the rotor side. Then the wheel should pull out and you are done removing the wheel.


Basically you just have to undo the 5 bolts to remove the rotor from the wheel



Heres a comparison of old vs new rotor style



Then attach the new rotor using new bolts along with loctite BLUE on the threads.

Wheel back in to forks with anti-sieze or grease on the axle

Locktite blue on axle nut

Reattach caliper to forks using loctite RED on caliper mounting bolts.

And finally install brake pads, I used new pads so I had to bleed the brakes in order for the pistons to go back in but other then that pretty easy job.

(Message edited by dom. on February 12, 2013)
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Dom
Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I actually have before and after videos of the rotor shaking vs not shaking I will upload once I splice them together. No more having to hold the brake at idle : D
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah that new rotor sure is pretty! Nice pics.

Do you have to find the "sweet spot" to get the caliper off with the PM wheels? Stock wheels require wiggle testing until you get to the right spot to get the caliper off.
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Dom
Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

once the pads were out the caliper came out pretty easily. jut had to tilt it slightly to pull it out

and here is the before and after video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSrJzyGiw9w
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Jayvee
Posted on Friday, February 15, 2013 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just went through these steps for a different reason last month. I had a lingering doubt.

I had to take a guess on installing the front axle, how to align the wheel correctly. I aligned the rotor in the center of the caliper, and tightened the rotor-side axle pinch bolts. Then torqued the axle nut to spec, then double check the rotor in the center of the caliper, then tighten the nut-side axle pinch bolts.

Did you have a better/different way? It isn't specified in the Service Manual, that I could find.

Also, Nice Bike!

(Message edited by jayvee on February 15, 2013)
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The trick is to push the caliper pistons all the way back into their bores. I pull the pads, spray the pistons with brake cleaner to get all the pad/road crud off the pistons. I use a small bristle (not wire) brush. Then put the pads back in and use them to push the pistons into the calipers.
Then pull the pads, pull the caliper bolts and do the rest.
You want to clean the pistons so you don't bugger the seals when you push them back in.
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Dom
Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As far as reinstalling the axle I set the wheel into the forks, pushed the axle through and torqued it down. Then torqued down the pinch bolts afterwards. When I was tightening the caliper mounting bolts it seemed as though it was pulling them into the right position, I haven't had any issues since doing this.
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46champ
Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dom how many miles does your bike have on when you decided you had enough of listening to the rattling mess. Mine had about 35,000 I am just curious if that is about the norm.
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Dom
Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

has right around 17k on it. I've only had it since about 12k tho but that was enough for me haha
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