| Author | Message | ||
     Nein_collins |
Hey guys, the basics... 2000 x1, race ecu... ecm spy settings show battery voltage at 11.5 volts. I go to crank it and all the starter solenoid does is click. The clutch cut works when the bike is in gear (fuel pump primes). I checked the side stand switch (jumpered the plug with a screw driver blade) still nothing. The lights don't dim, nothing bad happens when I hit the little yellow button except the solenoid clicks. I did remove the diodes and relays and swapped them (took some sandpaper to the diodes too) and still nothing. i'm gonna take the battery tomorrow to get it tested and see if I need a new one. its a Harley battery and I have no way of knowing if its old or new (looks pretty old though) any suggestions guys? Gray | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
11.5V battery is a dead battery pretty much. Just jump it with a NON-RUNNING car and see if it wakes up. | ||
| Kilroy |
Always check battery first. Saves a lot of headaches Kilroy | ||
| Spiderman |
12 volt battery 11.5 volts ... | ||
| Kyrocket |
I'm gonna go with either battery or ignition switch. Possibly a bad ground somewhere to cover the show for a trifecta. Good luck. | ||
| Nukeblue |
if after jumping or trying a good battery and what not, i'd look at the starter. i had a 99 x-1 that sounded the same. it ended up being corrosion in the starter. the thin o-rings that seal the bodies of the starter together don't work real well after awhile. i took it apart and cleaned it all up with electrical contact cleaner polished up the internals & put it all back together with a thin layer of sealant on the o-rings. everything worked great after that. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Gonna call job number 2 (Cycle Gear) and see if they have a battery in stock, looked up in our Drag Specialties catalog and it gave me a Yuasa ytx12bl number. If the Gear has what I need my price should be pretty darn good. I know on the mac daddy hi perf. yuasa its reg. price is 120 and my price is 70... Thanks for the help guys, hopefully its just the battery, wonder if that's why my bike has been running so poorly too... | ||
| Fahren |
Very, very possible. And if you are getting that kind of discount on the battery, throw another 30 or so into a Battery Tender trickle charger. Those things pay for themselves right out of the gate. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Fahren, I plan to...I sell enough of them to know of the benefits. You wouldn't believe how many batteries we sold at the first sign of good weather to people who didn't have battery tenders and didn't ride their bikes all winter | ||
| Kalali |
ECMSpy is not a reliable method for reading the battery voltage. Measure if from the battery poles. | ||
| Koz5150 |
Check for corosion between the teh frame and the grounding strap on the swingarm. this was an issue with my bike for almost 2 years before i figured it out. It causes the battery to wear down and prevents the bike from starting | ||
| Fullauto |
Clutch cutout switch too. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If he's getting a click, all the safety switches are fine. Clutch or sidestand switch would equal no click at all. I vote battery. | ||
| Rick_a |
+1 on battery. For all electrical issues, rule #1 is start with a good known battery. Go Yuasa or H-D if you can. I've had the best luck with those. | ||
| Hellraged |
when my bike clicks when i try to start it it usually is my battery gotta put it up to a trickle charger. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Yeah but it's weird since everything else is working as normal, headlight normal, fuel pump primes. My Yuasa came in yesterday and I put it in and still no cranky cranky. It had not completed its charge on the battery tender I bought though. Anyway today I have to go find a battery post bolt, I lost one in the mess under the battery box... | ||
| Hootowl |
Sounds to me like the contacts in your starter solenoid are shot. You can replace those without removing the starter. Rebuild kits are available at most HD dealers or online (JPCycles etc.) I have posted about this before. I'll try to find some links. The symptoms match. | ||
| Hootowl |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/403237.html | ||
| Nein_collins |
thanks hootowl, i'll be working on that tonight. At least out of all this I got a new battery (which was still needed) and a battery tender (very useful) | ||
| Hootowl |
I know that link says they're probably just dirty, but it has been my experience that one of the side contacts has been eroded away by the arcing that takes place when the ring contact hits. The bigger the gap, the worse the arcing. Vicious circle. | ||
| Hootowl |
Here's a rebuild kit for $12. http://www.liquidchopperstore.com/m17756.html | ||
| Nein_collins |
cool, I just ordered it, even if mine are just corroded and I can get the bike to run, it will only be a matter of time till they mess up again.... Thanks a bunch Hootowl...hopefully this will be the last thing this bike needs for a while other than the penske shock I am waiting for from Al | ||
| Hootowl |
I really want one of those. What's the lead time? They're custom made right? | ||
| Blake |
Ensure battery clamps/terminals are nice and clean. | ||
| Skntpig |
I vote for replacing the two bosche relays. One if for ignition and one is for starter, not sure which is which. They should be under the tail near the battery and one under the oil tank both on shifter side. They are found at any napa or automotive store for around $10. Replace and try again....Vroom | ||
| Nein_collins |
So far hootowl its been 2.5 weeks..im expecting another couple of days. I got home with some dielectric grease cleaned the contacts in the starter and she fired right up.... when the repair parts come in ill do a thorough fixup. Starts really quick with a 13.4v fresh battery.....thanks again for all the help guys.. |
