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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through December 23, 2009 » M2 finicky shifters? « Previous Next »

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Scdobber
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm full of new to Buell questions & you guys have been a ton of help.I'm use to riding sport bikes and the tight precise shifting all mine have had but the Buell is different.I noticed the other day I was shifting from 3-4 and I must have not lifted up enough "not sure" but found a neutral between the two gears when I released the clutch.The bike is a 02 and has the I guess the updated shifter.I've also noticed going from neutral to 1st,sometimes there is a clunk other times I hear nothing and let off the clutch slowly and hear it drop into gear.I did a fluid change 50 miles ago with formula+.The clutch feels good but I still may need to adjust it as well as checking the shifter linkage,just wondering if this is common
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Captainkirk
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Three things you need to check:
1) Do you have the new, updated primary shoe?
2) If so, is your primary chain adjusted properly? There are many threads in the KV WRT this procedure...OR, just read your factory SM and folow it TO THE LETTER.
3) Do you have the updated detent plate installed? If not, I HIGHLY suggest you:
a) Pull the primary cover. Install the new primary shoe
b) Pull the clutch basket. Replace the detent plate with the new style. Check your shift drum pins for looseness and/or backing out. If you have that going on, don't panic. I have a fix.
c) Reassemble using a NEW detent plate e clip retainer. Slather up the detent plate using plenty of white lithium grease. Very carefully set the shift pawl clearance with the drill bit as specified in the MM. Lock it all back together, and I guarantee you will be astounded at the difference. I was.
I am assuming you already have the new-style shifter (NOT the boomerang shifter) installed. I can post pix and walk you through it if needed. Good luck!
BTW-if you can't verify ALL the new parts are installed, just plan on a little exploratory surgery. Buy your gasket and be prepared to put the bike down for a few days. You will not regret it.
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Richsm2
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I wear 13 boots and had to readjust the shift linkage to be sure the lever returns to "neutral" position between shifts,the clutch handle on mine works best at about 1/16 or a bit less gap to bracket. I lube the cable with 30 wt every oil change, about 1500 miles plus or minus few. mine goes clunk also out of neural,I think it is due to our then static position soon to be changed to the dynamic of of two rotaing mass weights in response to the force applied by the rapid expandion of gases in an enclosed environment.
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Richsm2
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have an 2000 1/2, build date 5/2000 it has all the 2001 changes,just to relieve the man of undo work. I did it on mine when I first bought only to find all was there. just check and monitor the oil drive pump during various oil changes, add another ground to the regulator . jump the side stand switch .
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Jayvee
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't know about the 'to the letter' part.
The primary chain is kinda tight from the shop manual. The knowledge vault collective wisdom is to run it just a smidgen looser, and it shift better, among other things.

I'd start with the clutch cable adjustment, and then the clutch point engagement adjustment, and then clutch cable adjustment again, and then try it. Then the Primary chain adjustment if that didn't get it.

(Message edited by jayvee on November 15, 2009)
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Scdobber
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My bike may have the upgrades being a 2002 not sure though.I did adjust the drive chain to cold specs and did a hot check to be sure,all in spec with the SM
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Scdobber
Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jayvee I'll loosen it up a tad and see if it helps.
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Daveswan
Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My $.02 -- I have an 00' M2 with the crazy, up-and-over and back around sportster linkage that has character.

I've read all sorts of things regarding primitive shifter feel so when I got this bike I had expected low expectations. My shifting overall experience has been pretty good as everything is adjusted properly so my goal is to maximize the potential of what's inherent in the design.

I use Mobil V-Twin 20-50 in the crank as well as the engine. That made the shifting feel smoother.
You may notice shifter bushings which are plastic being all worn out so the lever may be a bit floppy on it's perch. American Sportbike sells oil impregnated bronze bushings that will remove that flop which helps a bit.

I have a heck of a time finding neutral after a stop but it's part of the charm.
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