| Author | Message | ||
     Andros |
Hey dudes On my ongoing custom project i now need to relocate the battery to under the swingarm on a bracket that connects to the engine. Kind of like how Magpul did it on their ronin. My question is if you think that i can run the fat positive lead down in between the engine and the frame. There is enough space. Will it melt the plastic insulation on the wire or have any other adverse effects? I will also connect the fat earth wire under the engine instead of over the swingarm where it is attached as standard. | ||
| Hootowl |
As long as it isn't rubbing or directly contacting the engine, it'll be fine. Automotive grade wiring has high heat insulation. That said, fusible link is probably a good idea. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Always protect a battery with a fuse or link. Especially when using non-factory wiring. I'm actually surprised that it's not mandatory via the DOT on factory wiring. Battery fires are a huge cause of damage and injury in accidents. Show us some pictures of the project, it sounds really cool! | ||
| Andros |
Thank. I will use stock wires, you know the big fat 1 gauge ones. I will make sure that they are completely secured in place but might touch the engine at a few spots. Why is that bad? Or is there something i can wrap the outside of the wire with? | ||
| Stirz007 |
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorma n-Conduct-Tite-10-ft-flex-split-wire-conduit/_/N-2 5g5?itemIdentifier=64473_0_0_ As long as you're not against a header, this stuff is easy and works fine to protect wires, etc. | ||
| Nillaice |
It's bad because the engine vibrates. Even ever so slightly, it will rub thru the electrical insulation and paint ... And that results in a bad day | ||
| Hootowl |
Just use a fusible link. Cheap and easy. Then if the insulation does wear through, you'll still be ok. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That'd be my concern as well... not melting, but rubbing through. It's relentless. The flex split conduit is pretty tough stuff, and you can stitch it closed with cable ties at particularly touchy points. For that matter, if the cable ties are at the rub points, that gives you a lot more material that would need to rub through. | ||
| Andros |
Thank you! Wouldnt this be perfect? http://www.thermotec.com/products/17063-thermo-fle x-color.html | ||
| Nillaice |
That's a neat product, but I'd imagine you could find something inexpensive to offer the same electrical insulation/abrasion resistance | ||
| Shawns |
Go to a bone yard and grab a battery cable from a car that has a fuse right at the battery post. a lot of newer cars have them. It would be a cheap way to experiment. | ||
| Andros |
How big a fuse is needed? | ||
| Shawns |
According to the fuse panel all fuses add up to 145amps. You could do a 150 or 160 amp main fuse | ||
| Hootowl |
I'd use the smallest fusible link possible that doesn't blow when you crank the engine. | ||
| Andros |
Fusible links... The wire is gauge2, its like 7mm thick. Where can i get something like that? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
You could make something yourself, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Voo8U7tAiX8 I would use some nylon plate instead of wood. Or this, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anl-fuse-holder-with-200-a mp-anl-fuse-Xscorpion-ANL1010G-inline-ANL-0-2-4-Ga uge-/200925626762 | ||
| Andros |
Awesome! Thank you. And the consensus is 150 amp? | ||
| Shawns |
You should be able to get the ANL fuse holder at any car audio shop. You could also get a 0, 1, 2 gauge amplifier install kit and it will get you the wire and the fuse holder. | ||
| Hootowl |
I don’t think adding up all the fuses is a good way to calculate your link rating. Under normal conditions, the fuses aren't conducting at their rated peak. The fuses protect the wiring of their own individual circuits; the sum of the fuses are not the sum of the current normally being carried by the battery cables. Do you have access to an inductive type ammeter? Perhaps you could measure the current draw while the starter is engaged. That should be max current. Round up to the next gauge of link. I believe a 12 gauge link is rated for 40 amps. You could also use an inline fuse carrier. Might be easier. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Look up the starter specs. Locked rotor amps is max draw. 150 sounds high to me too, but without knowing starter max draw, I really don't know. Edit: 900w starter (verify) /12v (nominal) = 75 amps, at least I think so....no warranties expressed or implied, use at your own risk, blah blah... (Message edited by Stirz007 on January 13, 2014) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Pretty sure the "main" fuse is a 30 or 40 Amp. That's what I'd do. Z | ||
| Hootowl |
I would simply measure the amount of current being drawn by the system while the starter is engaged, then round up to the next higher fuse/link. Then you're not guessing. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Have fun measuring that current  Most meters can only measure 10 or 15 amps. | ||
| Andros |
wow confusing 150? 75? 3-40. Big differences. Maybe it will just insulate the cable well so i don't get any shorting. Then i don't need this fuse i guess. | ||
| Davefl |
The fuse should be sized for the size and length of the wire.. The reason for it is to blow before you carry more amperage than the wire can hold so it does not start a fire.. This link shows how it should be done for aircraft. Should work on a motorcycle just fine. http://www.keybridgeti.com/videotraining/manualdl/ 25827.PDF | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
You need a fuse still, it's a fire/safety issue. I'd go with 150 amps. I put a battery in the trunk of a 4 cyl racecar once, and the 150 amp car audio fuse that I used never blew when starting that car. I'm sure this current is overkill for a motorcycle application (maybe not since it's a 1000+cc big twin), but all you're protecting against is a dead short. I wouldn't exceed 1/2 of the battery's rated CCA output with the fuse so that you know there's actually enough current there to blow the fuse in the event of a problem. Davefl has a better, more technical answer. Start reading on page 33. (Message edited by jimustanguitar on January 14, 2014) | ||
| Hootowl |
"Most meters can only measure 10 or 15 amps." See my previous post. An inductive meter will work. |
