| Author | Message | ||
     Rubberdown |
Thanks Ez, I'll check. | ||
| Swampy |
Buellistic, If you pull the seal on the sealed wheel bearing to clean and repack it you are going to have to remove it from the wheel, so in time the wheel will be so screwed up you are going to have to buy a new one. Unless you just pull the outside seal or use a needle greaser thingy.... Dude.....thats a lot of work for something that lasts so long if you get the new updated wheel bearing. But if you guys want, I will post pictures of the oak tree and my naked dance, soon as the wife goes away tomorrow. | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: If you a worried about removing the bearing from the wheel, well you do not have to ... BLASTs only have 2 bearing per wheel ... Which spins the freeist with the seals removed, the original or the up-dated bearing ??? Just stick the needle greaser thingy under the inside lip(useing H-D wheel bearing grease of course) and fill it up ... Of course you have to do the needle thingy a couple of times around the bearing to get it full ... Now if you do pull the wheel bearings, you do not need a puller to remove them ... When you reinstall them, grease the bearing and where the bearing goes into the wheel so it does not gaul the wheel ... Keep a close check on the sprocket bearing as you probably already know it has been known to get loose in the wheel ... My 2000 Blast was loose at 9127.0 miles ... If the punch trick does not work it will have to be PRODUCT IMPROVED ... Cobalt60 did you read this ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
red loctite! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellistic: Did you really need 4 posts to get to the point of telling us to use a needle greaser? Repacking a sealed bearing will, in all likelihood, make the bearing more prone to failure as you've now compromised the seal and made it more maintenance dependent. Your again telling people to completely disregard the manual and do the opposite is also likely to land them in serious trouble ("serious injury or death"). I'm also a little suspect about trusting the mechanical advice from someone who cant seem to turn the 'Caps Lock' button on his keyboard off. Once again, I will remind you that whether we have years of experience with bikes or are new to it, we deserve to be treated with respect. Your posts are regularly inflammatory, condescending and ANGRY IN NATURE (again ALL CAPS IS YELLING). They do not promote healthy discussion, but argumentative rebuttal. You can begin by refraining from using all caps in your posts or they will be edited. We welcome your contribution, but its not well taken after all the smug comments and if that's your game, I suggest you stay over at ralph's site. Erik | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearheaderiko: WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
Re-answered a question in the tire section. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Vortec57 |
EZ, slightly confused. Ordered the velocity stack today for my bike. Called outwears for the filter, the 135-b or whatever it is. They knew what I was talking about but that is just the cloth bootie that covers the filter. What are you running for a filter? Or are you just running the cover and no filter? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just the cover-no filter! | ||
| Vortec57 |
I'm thinking that I'll need some sort of filtering more than the sock. its REALLY dusty out here. Maybe I'll find some UNI filter material and just cut it down to fit in the stack. To say how dusty it is here, I cleaned my K&N filter in my truck in May, and it was dirty again last weekend. | ||
| Ezblast |
The cloth filters to .005 - with ziltch restriction - good enough for me - and works fine if you clean it as directed. I clean it once a month. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vortec57 |
Granted the Blast wont be seeing the conditions of my quad, but my outwear on my quad filer helps, but the inner filter is always caked full of crap. Either way, I'll finger out something that works. I hate the look of the big ugly airbox | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You could get just the ProSeries elbow and then throw a filter on the end of it or even perhaps throw a filter right on the end of the stack? Or make your own elbow as a few here have done. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 10, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Or even get one of those wafer stack filters and insert it behind the outwears - still would have to be cleaned regularly. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vortec57 |
Yup, today I went to my ATV race store and scored a chunk of foam filter material, 5/8 inch thick, ill just make me a little circle to fit in the stack and throw the outwear sock over the outside. next question comes jetting. I don't have an aftermarket exhaust (yet) should I mess with jetting yet or leave it alone? (If so, guidelines to start with) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I seriously doubt you'll be able to fit anything but a 'wafer' between the outerwear and the stack. The Outerwear is so shallow that you'll have enough difficulty getting it on the stack. I would suggest you get a bigger Outerwear than the 135-B. (I'm surprised the ATV store didnt carry them). # 10-2120-01 or 115-15T fits a little better (more of it slides over the stack like 1 1/2", the 135-B just goes on about 1/2") but will cost twice as much, $12. But a bigger or custom Outerwear will give you even more room for your idea(you certainly dont want to suck it into the carb). A great idea about the homemade filter! I like it! I'd try jetting at 45/170, but it might be there already. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 10, 2006) | ||
| Swampy |
Vortec57, The answer is YES Check out the Knowledge vault, engines, carbs, Stock you can install a 45 primary(stock) and a 170 main and everything will be peachy, it will help with starting and warmups and all in general running. Do drill out the plug for the idle mixture screw and turn that out 2-3 turns from a light bottom. | ||
| Vortec57 |
I'll take some pics when it gets here and of my creation when i'm done. I think it will wor. (it does in my head!) | ||
| Ezblast |
No - you don't have to rejet - though I would change my pilot to 45 - because they are pretty lean from the factory and turn the air screw 2 1/2 turns out from flat bottom. I know what your thinking - just saw it done on a 125 racing scooter today - it will work and you'll be fine the foam compresses a lot - I would still do spring bracing in case a cough kicks the carb out of the boot. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Well - I traded my blast in for that 2001 S3T with 6,400 miles that I've been talking about in the Tuber forum... Nick | ||
| Vortec57 |
Sad to see ya go Naustin. But I'm already looking at a CityX, so I cant say that I blame ya. The blast kicks ass, I just wanna kick some ass at over 100mph in 18 months! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Congrats Nick! Vortec57: My Blast will do over 100mph! So will EZ's! James spent most of today on mine, passing people out on the track. With one exception (another Blast), it was the least powerful bike out there. Still kicked ass though! Seriously, good luck on getting that XB. I like to see people move on to other Buells (if they need too). | ||
| Naustin |
Thanks! Yeah, after all that work I did to it, I was sad to let it go. I just don't have room for two bikes, and my wife never got into being the pilot. | ||
| Vortec57 |
HELP!!! Got my velocity stack today. I installed it and rejetted to a 50pj and a 170mj. got everything together tried to fire it up and just coughed and sputtered. Thought maybe I had too much of a pj in, so i dropped back to my stock one (42.5) same deal, coughs, sputters wont stay running, if I hold the throttle open it sounds like an old john deere tractor and kicks along a while but wont run. So I went back to purely stock jetting (165mj) and it still wont run for anything. I've messed with some carbs before, didnt think this was out of my league, but I can't make it run again for anything. HLEP ME PLEASE, what am I doing wrong? Everything seems to be OK, its getting fuel (spitting some out the intake side of the carb, its gettings spark as it does ignite sometimes. I don't have an oak tree to dance around naked so I gotta go for your help. Thanks in advance, | ||
| Ezblast |
Either tweeked the float or your intake boot is fubar - my bet is replace boot - lol and put your pilot/primary jet to 45 & 170 main. for the jetting. Do your jetting first, and don't forget to turn your airscrew out from flat bottom 2 1/2 turns. You should be good to go. Then replace your intake boot. They rip/tear easy and you probably did it working on the carb - don't ask how I know - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vortec57 |
Checked your post and called the dealer, closed of course! Pulled off my old boot, doesnt look torn, but I'll see if i can't get a new one in the morning anyhow. Gotta get this thing back together, its boring driving my truck! Even took pics along the way to show off my filter and filter guard i made (Message edited by vortec57 on August 14, 2006) | ||
| Buildingabuellsleeper |
Quick question...the handlebar grip on the clutch side of my blast is connected to the plastic housing which holds my clutch onto the handlebar. It doesn't seem to have any mechanical significance from what I can see or what I have researched. Will it hurt anything if i separate the two in order to replace my grips? | ||
| Ezblast |
Nope - just cut it off. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
I had the same thing happen when I replaced my grips. Are the original grips glued to that housing at the factory or do they just 'stick' over time? Just curious. | ||
| Vortec57 |
UGH! So my dealership doesn't have a boot on hand. One is being ordered for me. I duct taped up the old one just to see if it made a difference. Went to try it and the battery is dead! So now I sit waiting for the battery to charge. Noticed that my battery isn't tied down in any way shape or form. Is that normal? I've heard it bouncing before on rough roads and wasn't sure what it was. Next mod will be some sort of tie-down. |
