| Author | Message | ||
     Mikedog |
Gotcha. (both) And thanks. In that case, I have 2 questions: 1. I was told by the previous owner I can jack the bike up by the muffler (V&H) but I don't buy it. Is this true? 2. What am I in for when removing the rear wheel? Again, thanks in advance for any help. -Mike | ||
| Ezblast |
No - only true of the stock muffler - no biggie - 30mm - put a bar of metal in between rear pads as you slide disc off brake, use jack stands to hold up rear, several ways to go with that - front tire chocked, loosen/tighten nut on the ground, tightening per speck - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jmynes |
So, ummmmmm...... I should probably keep a couple of spare wheel bearings on hand? And an intake boot..... And a rocker cover gasket....... A horn bracket or two..... A rear tire............... A quart of oil............ Maybe I'm lucky, nothing broke yet. Rode it to work for the first time today. The Jardine is definitely quieter with the quiet core insert. 56 MPG on this last tankful, but that's running it, not babying it. I think it's a great little bike! | ||
| Ezblast |
Intakeboot - if stock - no, Rockercover gasket - no Hornbracket - no Rear tire - buy as needed - lol Oil - yes! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo |
Mike, I wouldn't jack up the bike by the muffler. There are a few ways to support the rear of the bike, like Jackstands. Do a search for posts in the last month of the thumper forum. You'll find a pic. Nothing spectacular or tricky on removing the rear wheel. I'd get a Factory service manual, or try to locate the one online if you get stuck. | ||
| Jprovo |
Jmynes, -LOL- Don't forget a speedometer bracket... Drive belt... Clutch Cable (I know you'd rather replace it than lube it!)... And don't forget to tighten the Nut behind the handlebars!! LOL, James | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can also jack the bike up with the Pro Series, but if the V & H is already damaged, I'd jack it by that anyway (tripod style-under the bracket-balanced on the front wheel and kickstand-rear wheel 1" off the ground). Milk crates do well as supports too! PS Rear wheel is super easy to R & R! | ||
| Black_widow |
 i'm attempting to change my oil for the first time and i'm a little nervous. should i have it just done by someone else? is it easy? HELP!!!} | ||
| Jprovo |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/57313.html?1140413048 If you are truely nervous, do some reading of the Service Manual. The Blast has the easiest oil changes of any vehicle I have ever owned. | ||
| Jprovo |
That's meant as encouragement. YOU CAN DO IT. Read, Learn, and try it. It's really straightforward. Easier than one might think for the ammount of money a dealership will charge you for it. | ||
| Mikedog |
Yeah, it's a piece of cake. Just ride around for a little while first to warm up the oil. (Then turn the bike off!) Also, remember to put it all back together before you put the new oil in. You'd be surprised how many people who have done this a thousand times end up pouring new oil into the the bike as it flows right back out onto the floor. It's funny, but only in retrospect.  | ||
| Mikedog |
Does anyone know where to get wheel bearings other than from H-D. I am unable to find anything on the web for the Blast, but I hate going through the usual channels. No dealer stocks these things. Mike | ||
| Jugallo94 |
go to any local bearing supply store and check them. I have found most of mine keep these bearings in stock. I cant remember the bearing part# though. You will need to look on the bearing itself for correct # to take in. | ||
| Mikedog |
Thanx Juggallo. Just found a set, so now, of course, as long as I have the wheel off... I was thinking of spraycan painting my wheels. Any recommendations on paint brand/type? Also,I'm thinking black to match the bike but I'm open to opinions.  | ||
| Jmynes |
Mikedog, Did you get them at the dealer, if not, can you recommend a source for the bearings? Maybe a part number? Thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
Black with the chrome rim part would look cool. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mikedog |
Dealer. I finally wore them down and they placed the order based on my phone call as opposed to my going in and ordering. They said "NO" 10 other times but I guess I got too annoying for $18.60. I work 25 hours a day lately so if I can't buy it by phone or internet, I'm screwed. Stock ones are good enough. I guess. | ||
| Mikedog |
EZ: That would be tough to mask (at least for me) but you're right! I should try it. I'll post pics regardless of how it turns out, so the group can either praise or laugh... | ||
| Swampy |
Mikedog, Did you try ordering one from one of our sponsers? If they don't have one they can tell you where to get it, plus the Badweb discount, plus its at your door when you get home from work in less time than begging the dealer that doesn't want to order it for you. | ||
| Black_widow |
 thanks for the encouragement jprovo. i would never pay a dealership for something i can easily learn to do myself. and mikedog, how did you know that was something would do??? } | ||
| Mikedog |
Swampy: WHAT?! You mean I have to give something in return for all this help and camaraderie?!  Sorry, I didn't think of it. I'll definitely support the site next time. And next time usually comes sooner than I think when it comes to needing Buell parts.  BW: I used to hear about it all the time on the Jeep boards, then a few motorcycle stories from my buddies. Only people who take it for granted are susceptible, so you probably wouldn't do it on your first try! Mike | ||
| Naustin |
My bike is down for new rubber today. I wonder what the HD guys will think of it with the rear-sets and the chopped up tail. I should have repainted it before I took it in to the dealer. The paint was comming off and really looking like crap showing the yellow underneath.  Oh well. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - what tires you choosing? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Avons... the AM51/52 combo. I decided to wait for that new Road Rider and see if I can get 5K out of the AM52 by keeping my speed down and running higher psi... nick | ||
| Berkshire |
Black with the chrome rim part would look cool. I just did my rear wheel that way - got bored waiting for the new tire to show up. I thought about doing it in yellow first, to match the bike - but that would've been be waaaay too much work to keep clean! | ||
| Jmynes |
Is there a thread to compare MPGs that we're seeing. My last tankful was 56 mpg, this most recent one was 64 MPG. I'm just wondering for curiosity's sake if there is a 'MPG bragging rights' thread. | ||
| Mikedog |
HELP! You guys would not BELIEVE what I just saw inside my wheel...  My bearing was destroyed, sure. But my axle was all rusty and nearly impossible to take out of the bike. Probably slightly bent. OK, fine so I got it out after 30 minutes of banging and twisting. "No problem," I thought. Now I'll just tap those bearings out, put the new ones in, and go! NOPE.  The broken one is stuck in the wheel. Can't bang it out from the back, because only the outer rim of the bearing casing is left. There's no way to hit it from the back. I have tried everything under the sun to get this out, but it feels like it's welded on. (I know it isn't...) Any ideas on what I should do? I'm tired and frustrated.  I have pictures but wasn't sure if it was ok to post them in this thread. I'll post if you like. Thinking of maybe cutting it with a sawzall or dremel cutoff disc. How hardened could the metal be? (famous last words) Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Message edited by mikedog on May 06, 2006) | ||
| Berkshire |
Cut a sharp edged groove about 1/16" deep all the way around the inside of the race, using the reinforced gritty cutting wheel attachment on a Dremel.  Install a snap-ring in the groove. Use a slide-hammer with a three-jaw internal gear puller on the end to grab the snap-ring and yank out the race.   If there is an "Autozone" in your neck of the woods, they have a tool borrowing plan - you actually buy the tool and then bring it back for a refund. When I used the puller/hammer tool, I had to sharpen the puller teeth to get it to work, as previous users had rounded them off. | ||
| Jprovo |
1. Use a die grinder or a dremel to cut the race real thin in two spots on opposing sides, and then use a chisel or punch and a hammer to break it in half. 2. Get the wheel smoking hot with a torch and let the bearing fall out 3. Tack weld a big washer to the race, and use that to get it out. | ||
| Pressureangle |
If you have access to a welder, weld a bead around the inside diameter of the bearing race. When the weld cools, the race will shrink and fall right out. Be certain that your ground is made to the race, not through the wheel hub. It's nearly impossible to actually attach anything to a bearing race by welding, the race is very hard and brittle. You need the correct welding rod and similar materials. |
