Author |
Message |
Oconnor
| Posted on Friday, January 07, 2005 - 09:42 pm: |
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Hey all, I come from the XB side of things, but want to get a thumper "for my girlfriend"... "so she can go on rides with me"... a la excuse for a thumper. Anyways, what year should I start looking at. Don't have a ton of money so can't buy new... So, what are all your opinions, buy as new as I can, or are there no changes in the past few years that I need to worry about? Thanks all |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, January 07, 2005 - 09:45 pm: |
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2001 on up |
Berkshire
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 01:04 am: |
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just curious - why not a 2000 model? from what i have been reading, the differences are: 1.) the front brake line is braided steel on the '00, which gives a firmer feel. later models have a regular hose. 2.) the 2000 model front motor mount has an extra horizontal link, which gives better handling under some conditions. later models do not have this link, which reduces vibration slightly. IMO, both of the above differences make the 2000 model more desireable (for a performance-oriented rider). 3.) the 2000 model has a leaner main jet (#165) in the carburetor, which should really be changed to the #170 main jet that is used in the later models - especially if an aftermarket exhaust will be installed. this difference makes the later models more desireable than the 2000 model - BUT - the main jet is a cheap part that is easy to install, and even the later models still need to have the idle jet changed to suit a performance exhaust, so changing the main jet at the same time isn't a big issue. besides that, a #175 main jet is indicated for low altitudes and more substantial mods, so even with a 2001-up model there's a chance both jets would need to be replaced. 4.) the 2001 and later models have a larger rear sprocket, which gives better acceleration. the 2000 model has a smaller sprocket, which causes pain and death because they have been known to explode at higher speeds. luckily, this issue was addressed with a safety recall. if there are still any 2000 model Blasts out there that have not had the sprocket changed out yet, the dealer will change to the larger '01-up sprocket, free of charge. as a bonus, you end up with a brand new belt & sprocket. 5.) engine bearings - at some point (2003, IIRC) the engine bearings were changed to a new design, which (IIRC) holds up to high RPM's a little better. this is a clear advantage to the newer models (2003-up?) if extreme use is planned without bottom-end mods. anything more than the 515cc kit requires the cases to be opened up, so the updated bearings can be changed when the other work is done. okay, so those are all the differences i'm aware of - somebody please chime in if i missed anything! there are a couple of neat features of the 2000 model (just be sure to get the 80-tooth rear sprocket!), and a more durable bottom end on the 2003-up (IIRC) models. if i had known all this before i bought my 2000 Blast, i might have looked a little more for an '03-up model, but most likely i still would have would have ended up buying the same one. at the time when i was ready to buy, i only found 2 in my area that were for sale by owner. the "other" one was almost new, and priced accordingly, so i took the deal that made the most sense. if you're going to do top-end-only mods and up the rev limiter, then try to find an '03-up. if you're not ever going to change the head or the valve springs [edit: meaning "bolt-on" mods only], or if you're going to do a big-bore conversion, then IMO, it makes the most sense to just figure out where you want to be on the "price vs. newness" scale, and find one that's in the condition you want for the price you want to pay - regardless of year model. [edit: also, at some point the rocker-box gasket was changed from a paper type to an improved design. it is likely that most bikes that were produced with the paper gaskets have already started leaking, and then changed over to the new gasket type.] (Message edited by berkshire on January 07, 2006) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 01:12 am: |
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Being first year had a lot of good and bad qualities, any later Blast - my choice is 2003 on up can be updated to great 2000 specs a lot less expensively than visa versa and their price would be almost the same. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 09:45 am: |
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Steel brake line still available, appx. $50. Steel brake line causes pulling (more easily) under hard braking hence the change to rubber. Engine tie bar link $10+ 3/8x20 die and hack saw for modification to it. (2000 top tie bar unavailable but the others can be easily modified to work). Like anything early model years tend to have more bugs than later model years, but there isnt that much difference between all years. |
Berkshire
| Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 02:52 am: |
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"Like anything early model years tend to have more bugs than later model years, but there isnt that much difference between all years." yep - I try to avoid "1st year" vehicles, but apparantly I'm not very good at it! I've got a '92 Ford Econoline (1st year of re-design), an '00 Sport Trac (1st year of new model) and an '00 Blast. |
Berkshire
| Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 03:01 am: |
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I just noticed that the question that started this topic was posted a year ago from yesterday, not "just" yesterday... Doh! Oconner probably has bought a Blast already, or else never will. "New Years Eve"...? Am I correct in thinking that's that thing where the year goes "up" one? |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 09:39 pm: |
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Ha, Ha! I read this thread just now and was sitting here scratching my head, cause I couldn't remember posting that yesterday! My how time flies |
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