Author |
Message |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 06:30 pm: |
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Merci' |
Johnnymac
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 10:55 am: |
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EZ, the 110/70's are just a little wider than desirable for that skinny front rim. Getting the first bead on isn't that big of a deal but the stiff tire and low profile compound each other and make it very hard to keep the outer bead in place as you try to feed the other side onto the rim. Once you do get the outer bead half way on the stiffness of the tire makes it seat into the beads on both sides of the rim making it very difficult to massage the last of the bead over the rim lip. Being able to compress the tire so that both of the beads are in the middle of the rim's cross section gives you enough play to massage the last of the bead over the rim lip. The stiff tire makes it very hard to do. If not for my lovely assistant standing on the tire in her heels and compressing the tire bead enough to get some play, I don't think I would ever have gotten that damn tire on! It was such a b!tch to install the front Avon that I am seriously thinking of going with a 100/90 in the front next time. While I am enjoying the handling of the front AM63, I find that there is a bit of unused tread (1/2" on either side) and I also feel that the overall diameter is just a little too small for the P3. I am going to measure usable tread both front and rear as well as total mounted tread and actual cross-section profiles (not mere calculated drawings) of them. Once I have this I would like to compare it with the same measurements taken from a fresh set of stock tires. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 04:40 pm: |
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On the oversized - there will always be some unused tread, but cornering contact patch is bigger - thats a plus and your not running out of rubber on a turn - another plus - the center contact patch will widen in a few hundred miles to only be a few hundredths smaller than the stock straight line contact patch, and the tire lasts longer over all - I'll take that and the extra hassles to get it on over the slower handling 100/90. EZ |
Chadprepton
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 10:05 am: |
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I switch from the stock Dunlops to Avon AM26. I did notice the handling was different but can't this be fixed by lowering the forks my 10mm? |
Reuel
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 04:05 pm: |
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Fixed? Isn't the handling better? |
Chadprepton
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 07:42 pm: |
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The first week I had them the response is different |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 09:01 pm: |
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I'm running a 110/70/16 Avon AM63 on the front and a 120/80/16 Avon AM26 on the rear of the Big Kids Blast. It changed the way the bike handled, you still had the smoothness of the wider tire, but the turn in quickened up quite a bit. |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 09:50 pm: |
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I have the same setup. I had dunlops before, then replaced the rear with a 120/80/16 while waiting on the front tire. Just with the rear replaced I noticed better traction and quicker turning. The 110/70/16 on the front just made it smother. The front dunlop made leaning feel jerky and sloppy. |
Thumpe
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 03:02 am: |
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OK, Another update on the Avon AM63 at 1881 miles an it's showing some cords!! It's looking like this maybe an expensive relationship!! I guess I'll have to back off the throttle a little if I want to get a couple more miles out of it
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Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 11:08 am: |
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Damn I've got over 2000 on mine on both bikes and they still look relatively fresh compared to that - what air pressure you running? EZ (Message edited by ezblast on November 03, 2008) |
Thumpe
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 11:25 am: |
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I was running 30.5 at first but i upped it to 32 trying to get more mile out of it. |
Reuel
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 01:07 pm: |
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I run mine at about 35, and it's doing FINE! Wait--I'm running the AM26. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 01:10 pm: |
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Damn - I upped mine to 32 also, however, I did it earlier in the tires life - I'm betting - lol - looks like you have been having fun! EZ |
Thumpe
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 01:52 pm: |
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OOOH YA!! MY new one i'll start with 32 an see what happens. |
Johnnymac
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 02:40 pm: |
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I'd run 34psi if I were you on that next one. I run mine at 35 and I got 4k on my last VS140. Currently I am running a Pirelli ST66 140/70S in the rear and I love it! I have about 1500 miles on it and it still looks brand new except for the scuffing from riding. As for handling I find it fantastic and have laid it over further on this tire than on the Avons. I have 1/2" or less of chicken stripe on either side of this one and at one time I laid it over so far to the left that it lifted the rear tire off the ground. Luckily I was braking and not going very fast so the weight was shifted to the front end and a correction on the front brought the tire back down. Nothing like using the foot peg as a lift while moving. LOL. If you are looking for an alternative to the Avon, the Pirelli ST66 has been great for me. Takes a few miles to fully warm up and they appear to wear like iron but has never slipped on me. They also run only $65 for the rear. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2008 - 09:16 am: |
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Thumpe, how often do you use your rear brake? |
Thumpe
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2008 - 11:06 am: |
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Not as much as i use the front. I use it more for hard emergency type braking an try not to locking it up. My problem with keeping tires is to much WOT up shifting and down shifting i try not to down shift into 1st gear. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 01:43 am: |
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I dont know how you're eating tyres. I'm pretty sure both EZ and I 'abuse' our tyres in the same WOT way, but we dont eat tyres. Unless you're really vicious about it, running it like a dirt bike with a bulletproof trans. Then I can see it eating tyres (and trans parts). On an emergency stop the last thing I want to do is hit the rear brake. I'm used to bikes that will actually stop with the rear brake. It takes a conscious effort to avoid it (as you know it locks up very easy under hard braking). On my track bike I adjusted the rear brake lever out of panic reach as no good can come from using it.. |
Thumpe
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 05:31 am: |
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Well dirt bikes are my roots to motorcycling an i do tend to shift hard i blew the tran on my kawi so bad i had to get whole new bottom end an that wasn't easy it 1975 two stroke triple this is the only street bike i have owned so it was like i never got off my dirt bike it even sounds like one an still have it to. I got the blast this spring an my shifting habits haven't changed i didn't blow the trans yet. I've miss a couple gears didn't sound good but it didn't blow |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 07:49 pm: |
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That explains the the rear tire usage. You blew the tranny on the H2 'widowmaker'? You are an animal! LOL! If you havent done so yet, I'd adjust the transmission shifter pawl. Might save your tranny. |
Thumpe
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 06:31 am: |
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To adjust the transmission shifter pawl it that in the primary i haven't bin in there yet? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 06:33 pm: |
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Yes, you'll need to pull the primary. EZ and Swampy are best with those instructions. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 12:42 am: |
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Its a snap - you'll want to gather up parts first though - so keep riding till you get them - test out that boot theory - lol EZ |
Thumpe
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 05:33 am: |
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Don't worry EZ i'll keep testing the boot lol till it drops into the thirty degree range all day that's when i park it. Just looking for winter projects so what parts do i need to gather up! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 03:23 pm: |
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Primary gasket, primary inspection gasket, shift shaft seal, detent plate, detent clip, I'd have a primary adjustment shoe standing by in case the other looks worn, drain plug o-ring and primary adjuster o-ring, everything else would be labor or oops replacement. You'll se a primary special tool is needed - you can make it out of bar stock - its what ? 4 1/2" long - round the edges so it doesn't hurt the gear teeth, then insert it - holding the gears in place while you take the nuts off - one is reverse threaded - see manual - its all pretty simple stuff: 1)Remove the clutch/chain/rotorbasket as a unit - dis-assembling till you get to the two nuts - one is reversed threaded - make the primary tool as shown in the manual by using some bar stock at any hardware store - and cutting to size then rounding the two ends so they gently fit in the gear teeth - locking the two gears so you can loosen both nuts, taking them off - you'll need a 200lb torque wrench to re-install - take off all 3 parts as a unit. the items you need to get at are right there. 2)remove the stator wire protection plate, chamfer/round all the edges - use blue locktight and tighten to speck. 3)remove Dentent Clip, and Plate, have new ones to replace old. While off measure drum pins, any pin longer than another, leach 1 drop of red locktight on the pin then gently tap back in till it is the same length as the rest. Now reassemble detent plate and clip, do Shift Pawl adjustment, and re-assemble the trans, put on new shoe, keep primary loose, do clutch adjustment at primary, close her up.Do primary adjustment according to book but make it 16 flats out, do clutch cable adjustment - if any noise you can adjust/tighten after the first 1/2 hour heat cycle, you have to do two, then re torque case bolts according to diagram in the manual. Extra time used - about an hour - gained from extra work - stator wires better protected, a seriously improved shifting transmission, and much smoother clutch as well. Well worth the extra effort. EZ |
Fast1075
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 04:56 pm: |
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Dude!! It's HARD to kill a H2 trans without a wheelie bar and a slick! For those who never rode one...they are like a 300 pound badger with pms...evil mean machines...Christine on two wheels...a 90hp monster with a hinge in the frame. The throttle has 3 positions...bog, spin or wheelie...and if you have to get completely out of the throttle at top speed and get a big handful of front brake...you will most likely need to toss the shorts you are wearing unless the steering damper is new...Gosh I miss those things...they were as mean as I was back then. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 06:58 pm: |
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"bog, spin or wheelie" LOL!!! |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 08:45 pm: |
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Fast1075....What Are You Talking About WILLIS? I must have missed a post... |
Thumpe
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 11:20 pm: |
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He's talking about my 1975 kawasaki two stroke triple my other 500
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Thumpe
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 11:32 pm: |
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This is my last update on this tire at 1980 mile i took it off today put the new one on!
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Fast1075
| Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 06:56 am: |
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Thumpe....that is one sweet H1...are those Wirges or Denco pipes?....I had a '69 model, white with the strobe stripes..it had a DRUM front brake and a friction steering damper!!! I cracked two frames in the steering head down tubes from the vibration and wheelies!!! You have the latest version with reinforced frame...and disc brake. Awsome restoration...my racing partner just sold a completely restored 750 with a Paul Gast Prostock spec top end...that thing was FIERCE!!! He got a pretty penny for it too. Swampy....picture a 750 snow machine engine stuffed in a dirt bike frame...the only (street legal production) bike I have ever ridden that was scarier was a RG500..the power band was narrow as a razor blade...and the throttle might have as well been a toggle switch. |
Thumpe
| Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 07:34 am: |
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YA Baby!! She come on about 3grand u better be hanging on to the handlebar she'll throw u off the back lol !! I have the denco on there. Dan |