| Author | Message | ||
     Bluv21 |
Here is a laugh for today. A guy on CL is trying to sell his 03 Blast for $3500 with 3K miles on it. That's about how much they cost brand new!!! I hope no one get's taken... | ||
| Ccahdvm |
While I was searching for one I found several all over the country for 3-3500. I assumed they all were "willing to negotiate". I almost didn't call the guy that I eventually bought mine from - he was asking 2200 on CL for a pretty rough one. I shot him what I assumed to be a pretty low-ball offer, and he accepted it immediately. Some folks probably miss out on some sales with that philosophy. | ||
| Ccahdvm |
Gearheaderiko - you were right; 5 days after putting an ebay search for Buell Blast parts, a yellow fairing showed up for $20 less than retail. I snatched it up. Now on to the left side cover, primary adjustment (still has the factory c-insert) after the service manual arrives, probably a new intake boot, etc. etc. etc. I think my old Harley is feeling neglected 'cause I'm having so much fun with the new Blast. | ||
| Syonyk |
I think my old Harley is feeling neglected 'cause I'm having so much fun with the new Blast. I *know* my 1125 and XB9 are feeling neglected! If I'm not on a bicycle to work, I'm on the Blast. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Well I emailed the guy just out of curiousity and he seemed pretty firm on the price. I picked mine up for 1500 with LESS than 1K miles on it. Just needed a little TLC and shes running like a top now. (Message edited by bluv21 on May 09, 2012) | ||
| Syonyk |
Well I emailed the guy just out of curiousity and he seemed pretty firm on the price. I picked mine up for 1500 with LESS than 1K miles on it. Just needed a little TLC and shes running like a top now. I was really lucky & got ours for $1k with 3300 miles on it. The guy didn't list it for sale - he'd listed it for trade (wanted a dirtbike). I asked what his cash price was, and if he didn't do his research, that's not my problem... I keep looking for "doesn't run" Blasts. One escaped for $800 around here. I figure they're simple enough, and I know enough about them now that I can deal with pretty much anything they're likely to have. $100 in boot, plugs, oil, filter, and some time cleaning the carb out (if it's actually fouled), $150 of shiny new rubber, a good cleaning/adjustment, and sell it for $1k more than I paid? Sure.  | ||
| Wjcunning |
Hey Blasters, picked up a 2001 P3 with 850 miles on it. Vance and Hines pipes, and a nasty case of backfiring. Gee, where to start? Read thru the FAQ, any suggestions how to proceed? Best, Wild Bill | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Low miles, new exhaust. First I'd say exhaust leaks. 2nd "das boot". 3rd I'd say too lean. That's without knowing exactly when it backfires! | ||
| Crackhead |
+1 | ||
| Ezblast |
+2 | ||
| Syonyk |
Is there a way to stiffen up the stock "high seat" for the Blast? Mine is fairly soft for the rider (the passenger section is much harder). I sink in and it's less comfortable than I think harder foam would be. | ||
| Ezblast |
I would cut in a gel pad. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. First there are two different "high" seats. One stiff, one uncomfortably soft. The stiff one is a really comfortable seat, but hard to find (or verify without trying it on). While cutting in gel pad will make some difference, you'll still be left with a whole lot of soft. Same idea, but just add stiffer foam. Carpet padding works well. You can also add padding to the existing and just cinch it down with some duck tape and then put the cover back on. Its really very simple. You can cut most out and add a block of styrofoam. But I think add & cinch is the easiest way to go and reversible. Just be creative. I had to firm up mine on the raceBlast because you just couldnt move around with it being so durn soft. Huge difference. The cover is easy to staple back on with a fairly cheap Arrow staple gun (Home Depot, etc.). With a good (expensive) staple gun it should be really easy! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
See also: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/428525.html?1312950327 | ||
| Syonyk |
Yes. First there are two different "high" seats. One stiff, one uncomfortably soft. The stiff one is a really comfortable seat, but hard to find (or verify without trying it on). Is there a part number difference, or is it a matter of just trying them until you find one? I'm considering just taking it to a local shop that does motorcycle seats & seeing what they can do. I'd like it closer to a dirtbike seat. | ||
| Crackhead |
I think there is a different part number but the seat is not stamped with the different part numbers. I think the soft seat ends in -00Y and the firmer seat ends in -06Y. It is really easy to notice the difference. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There are two very different part numbers, but I have still not found a definitive way to tell them apart. I suppose if I saw a lot more seats I could compare and find the "code". But even if Crackhead is right, I've seen things to contradict it  If someone can tell you they are sure they can pick out a seat just from part numbers, then go with it as long as you dont spend more money than you can sell the seat for. The seats do have part numbers on them. Unless thats another inconsistency. | ||
| Ezblast |
The newer firmer seats have a tinier grain pattern than the older style material, looks more vinyl than leatherette - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Take the strap off, they look better - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I forgot all about the strap! | ||
| Inplansight |
Hi guys I picked up a 2004 Blast with a tick over 3K miles over the weekend and want to change the oil before I put any miles on the bike. Can anyone tell me the type and how much engine oil the bike requires? I found this in the FAQ "Mobil 1-(Auto Formula) in 15w50" and the bike should take about 3.5 quarts of oil, correct? The service manual is on order but I really want to get the bike on the road this week  , overall the bike is in good condition and should go through inspection with out much work. BTW I want to thank the people who created this board as I have found some very useful information on this board.  Thanks Paul B} | ||
| Milt |
Welcome to the madness. I don't remember how much engine oil goes into a Blast, but I'm thinking no more than 2 quarts. Don't overfill ! Wait for a better answer ! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1.5 quarts ( 1 1/2 qts ). Then recheck when Hot. More than that and you'll be overfilled. It might take 1/4 qt more (might). (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on May 22, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Use 20w -50. I don't believe in 15w for a Harley product, especially in summer. | ||
| Babstwo |
HAVE 2000 BLAST INSURANCE SAYS OLD MODEL WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE DENNIS G | ||
| Syonyk |
Also, be aware that the Blast likes to drink oil, and due to the very low oil capacity, you have to check it regularly (after running). Ours drinks about 8oz/300 miles (the difference between the high and low marks on the dipstick). I prefer to keep it up at the high mark. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Dennis! We have no idea what your question is. There is only one model of Blast and it changed very, very, very little during the entire production run 2000-2009 (or?) PS: ALL CAPS IS YELLING. | ||
| Inplansight |
Well I am back with another question, I was going to change the oil in my 2004 Blast and discover the bike has three drain plugs? One is under the right side of the bike and looks to be a square (1/4") plug, the other two are under the left side of the bike one looks to be a regular plug the other has a bolt and nut (adjuster maybe). I know one should be for the engine and the other should be for the transmission correct? Which is which? I did top off the oil and was on the way to the fuel station and guess what, ran out of fuel  . Of course this happens on the main drag, get it going and get to the fuel station. All was good after that and rode about 23 miles  , not a bad day. Paul B | ||
| Bluv21 |
Paul, Neither of those are drain plugs for the engine oil. The engine oil drain is actually a hose under the foot peg bracket on the left side (shifter side). The primary oil drain plug is also on the left side under the bike but it is the aft most plug. The primary adjuster is forward of the primary drain plug. Oil will drain out of this adjuster however but I wouldn't recommend it. Also, when you pull the drain plug for the primary oil, check the rubber gasket for any signs of wear. (Message edited by bluv21 on May 23, 2012) | ||
| Milt |
At least one edition (2002) of the shop manual incorrectly identifies the primary adjustment screw as the primary drain. On the other hand, maybe I just couldn't read. |
