| Author | Message | ||
     Falicke |
Hi, After i put a new spark plug into my Blast, it makes a weird (clingy  )sound in the medium RPM range. (I guess maybe around 2500 RPM). The noise only shows if I give it some throttle (not too much and not too little). It is only a very small RPM range. If i go below or above the noise disappears. With the old spark plug i never heard such noise. Should i be worried about anything? When i put the plug in, i didn't have a torque wrench but used rule of thump. Also, i didn't use the Buell recommended lock-thigh paste when replacing the plug. Any pointers? thanks & safe riding, falk PS: i put 130 miles onto the new plug - it runs and responds great PSS: the new plug is Buell® Pro-Series Performance Spark Plug Split "V" Side Electrode 2822-01Y | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like it may be knock or ping and I would double check to make sure you have the right plug. It may be coincidental,using bad gas or your timing maybe off.Also check loose footpegs. Only use anti seize on spark plug threads. Although it may be made by Loctite, its anti seize paste. Using Loctite (threadlocker) may lead to stripped threads especially if plug is removed when hot. Not using anti seize can lead to stripped threads if the plug is removed when hot (avoid removing hot spark plugs!). | ||
| Jprovo |
If the noise sounds like two skeletons crewing in a tin-can, you're bike is pinging. I'm suspicious that only a plug change caused it. The 32822-02Y plug is the one listed on the website to for the Blast... Are you running premium gas? It may be something that just started rattling, and you just noticed it... Check your Horn bracket. James (Message edited by jprovo on October 03, 2005) | ||
| Falicke |
I run premium (91 Octan) gas. I thought about the spark plug a little longer. I had measured the distance between anode and cathode before i screwed the plug into the cylinder. It was slightly smaller than recommended minimum gap. I wasn't sure if the distance measurement is the same using the (patented) V-Shape and therefore left the gap the way it came out of the cardboard box. Do you think if the gap was too small it could cause a different noise under certain circumstances? Besides, thanks for the tip with the anti-seize. That's what i actually meant. I don't know how my brain came up with loctite instead. Many thanks for the great pointers!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I cant see too small a gap making noise and performing better (it might perform better at low rpm though). Pull it and check the gap. The loctite - antiseize brain confusion happens all the time! | ||
| Humboldtblast |
Ok after i changed my boot on my bike i noticed it ticked more than usual. the tick sounds like it is coming from the upper end of the motor. Sorry i know this is vauge... it is starting to do this tick thoughout idle to medium rpms...then it varies...am i just a tripper and being paranoid? | ||
| Swampy |
Some times the lifters bleed down and it takes a while to get them filled back up again. | ||
| Ezblast |
Could also be a guide going south - I would look into it further. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Good answer Swampy! Humboldt: If you've done nothing else to the engine and the bike runs okay, you are probably tripping and paranoid! I notice every little noise when I havent ridden a particular bike for awhile. Will we being seeing you at the SLO ride this year? | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - | ||
| Hood514 |
hi, guys, I am new here, so howdy from East Texas. I have a good one for ya'll. I have a 03 with 4000 miles on it. It ran great. It sat for about two months. I played heck getting it started. It will start easy now, but it will not run-run. It will idle for a bit then acts like there's no fuel. I change it to the reserve and the thing will run.. It will not run in "on" for more than five minutes. It stalls just like it is on empty.. I am two hours from the nearest shop....ANY IDEAS? | ||
| Ezblast |
Change your intake boot. - lol - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Hey Hood514! Tyler is a Buell dealer amigo. Only an hour from you it would seem. But, if it will run fine on reserve, but not on "run", suggest you make darn certain that you aren't confusing the "run" and "off" positions of the fuel valve. If you are certain of that, then it sounds like your fuel valve (petcock) may be suffering some kind of clogging issues. Is the bike filled up with fuel? Also, check the fuel tank vent line. If loosening the fuel filler cap alleviates the problem, that is a good sign that your fuel tank vent line is not venting as it should. Let us know what you find. Stop by if you are ever in Kilgore. | ||
| Swampy |
Is there enough fuel in it? Yes..then check the intake boot. I had a carb pop off the boot when it backfired once and that was with the stock air filter housing! It started and ran but wouldn't rev up. If thats the problem loosen all the air filter mounts and the three bolts on the carb inlet and the boot clamps, then push the carb all the way into the boot, then tighten all the mounting bolts down starting with the three carb inlet bolts. After all the mounting bolts are tight then tighten the boot clamps. | ||
| Blake |
I don't see how it would run fine in the reserve position if the intake boot were the issue. What am I missing? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur with Blake! (thanks for stopping by) | ||
| Berkshire |
"sounds like your fuel valve (petcock) may be suffering some kind of clogging issues." Try blowing it out - turn the valve off, disconnect the hose from it, plug up the open end of the hose, connect a spare hose (preferably a clean one!), hold the open end up higher than the top of the tank, turn the valve on, blow thru the hose, turn valve off, put things back how they were and see if it worked. The petcock looks like it could be taken apart and cleaned (I haven't tried this yet, but mine seems to need lubrication). The "is there enough fuel" question may seem a little obvious, but... sometimes it's hard to tell. With the bike on the sidestand, the gas will slosh over to the petcock side - possibly enough to enter the valve thru the "ON" inlet and fill up the float bowl in the carb. When the bike is stood up straight, the gas might only enter the valve thru the "reserve" inlet (or could be borderline), but the bike will still start and run for a while just on the gas that was in the float bowl (without getting any more gas from the tank). This can make it hard to tell how much gas is really in the tank sometimes. It's also possible that there is a layer of something (ethanol?) floating on top of the gas in the tank - on "reserve", good gas would enter thru the lower inlet, but on "on", bad stuff would enter thru the upper inlet. Unlikely, but possible. | ||
| Blake |
If any kind of carburetor cleaner fuel additive had been used, what Berkshire says is definitely something to look out for. The tuolene based products like that found in Berryman's carb cleaner additive can form a weird sludge on the bottom of the tank that can clog a fine screen filter. Happened to an old Yamaha I once owned. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks GearHead. I remain a Thumper wanna-be. Someday! | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - nice call - I missed the petcock thing - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Did you know that on some moto forums, you cannot post the word "petcock." It gets replaced with "petrooster." Yet some folks actually will gripe about BadWeB policies.  | ||
| Marijane0569 |
huh, huh huh he said petcock. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Just bought an '03 Blast a couple of weeks ago and have put over 200 trouble free miles on it thus far. Today the trouble starts. I notice that at idle, the bike stalls out. Also, there is reverse popping from the carb. At speed the bike runs smooth as can be, but you let off the throttle or shift down and the popping starts. I guess you could say its got a backfire from the exhaust too, but not the gunshot kind that you sometimes hear from bikes or cars. Almost sounds like its sucking IN air. This JUST started today. I replaced the spark plug to no avail. I'm not sure where to go next. Anyone heard of this type of problem and have any ideas for a solution? Thanks (Message edited by sking1973 on April 15, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Stock or aftermarket exhaust? First I would replace the intake boot - may solve everything, easy to do and the part is cheap. Then I would check and see that the exhaust header is the correct tightness to the head, then if stock - I would suggest that the carb needs cleaning, perhaps the jets, if aftermarket exhaust - I would question that the jetting was done correctly to go with it. Let us know - but betting boot either has a secret crack that you can only detect from the inside, or is just plain loosely connected, 3 year old rubber critical part - I'd replace it anyway - I replace mine with the oil change - cheap and easy enough to do for peace of mind. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Stock exhaust. I've seen this "intake boot" mentioned several times in this thread. Where is this? Where the air box and carb come together? It's been awhile since I've done any kind of motorcycle work. Last time was 15 yrs ago on a '76 Honda! I'm sure I can do the work myself, but any help is appreciated. | ||
| Ezblast |
You have to unbolt the airbox from motor/body and red locktight back on at the MFGR recommended torque after your done replacing the intake boot that is between the carb and intake manifold - held on by two hoseclamps - that attaches to the head - a little time consuming the first time but easy enough. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 15, 2006) | ||
| Sking1973 |
Thanks for the help! Is this a common thing with this bike? Just curious. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Hopefully, this will solve my problem. I had the whole thing apart today just to change the spark plug. Why not take it apart again! | ||
| Ezblast |
The boot could just be loose from a drop or never being tightened properly, or just worked its way loose, however, it is rubber - and so on a drop it could crack and you wouldn't see it and the effects of the crack wouldn't really show till it got a bit worse - such as the symptoms your showing, up to will idle but die when engaged - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome! Its a common cause of problems but not something that will give you trouble on a regular basis. A stock Blast will give you very few (if any) problems. Get a repair manual, its much easier to help online if you have one. Check ebay for some good deals. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Another question. In the air box there is a clean air inlet hose. In the service manual that I have, it shows that being pushed onto the long screw in the 1 or 2 o'clock position (the screw with the spacer). Is it left there? The inlet hose on my bike won't even reach that screw. |
