| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Does the Blast have a cylinder head temperature sensor and/or a kickstand safety switch? | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: No cylinder head temperature sensor, but could be on some later model BLASTs ... They as all motorcycle are required to have one(side stand safty switch) ... THIS IS A GOOD THING as if you have ever went into a corner with a broken side stand spring and the side stand flaping in the wind, this is one you like !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
Ops! Easy stuff first! Jumper wire the side stand switch and try it! Also the Bank Angle Sensor located under the tail section tray on the subframe. Then the Ignition module. | ||
| Ezblast |
if you have ever went into a corner with a broken side stand spring and the side stand flaping in the wind, this is one you like !!! In BLASTing LaFayette Thats how I figured out it was the Side stand switch and not the boot - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Bookends |
Gearheaderiko I will check the ignition module next time it fails but I'm completely unfamiliar with this screwdriver-in-the-plug thing you're referring too. Could you explain that a little bit better or is it really just jam a screwdriver into the plug wire and......? Also, the bike doesn't die until I've ridden it for a few miles and it won't occur if I just let it sit and idle. This evening, it died on me while riding over to me friends house (he has a garage). I waited for a bit and it fired right up, only to die again two miles down the road. HOWEVER: New info that I believe I left out - I get a lot of "poof POOF poof" from the carb right at the throttle body just before it dies. What is that? I'm so reluctant to throw money at the problem until I have exhausted all resources. In the meantime, I'll tinker.  BookendS edit: I just wanted to talk myself through this really quick. 1) Bike fires up right away and runs great for several miles; across all rev ranges and speeds until it begins to sputter and die. This tells me that it's not fuel or clogged-up carb. Since an air-cooled bike will get hot very quickly, it doesn't seem like a "temperature" related issue in the sense that the distance traveled between failures varies greatly and the core temp of the motor is the same within minutes of start up. 2) Popping and "poofing" at the carb suggests that fuel is suddenly not making it to its destination; although I'm not 100% sure since I've only ever worked with fuel injection. I have eliminated the fuel tank breather line as the culprit by unplugging it at the gas cap for the time being. Perhaps there is a gum-up else where in the line? But then why would it run fine for a while until failure? 3) My background is Physics tells me that this phantom ignition module problem I have read so much about surely can't be the culprit. When a solid-state circuit fails, it's repeatable and consistant. If it were heat related, it should happen almost immediately. I just can't believe that my current problem is tied to this device!! Unfortunately, the collected knowlegde and experience of this board points towards this bastard!! But how could a diode and transistor filled solid-state circuit just fail, but ONLY sometimes? And ONLY when the bike is under load? (Message edited by bookends on May 18, 2007) | ||
| Ezblast |
Ignition | ||
| Swampy |
The Hall effect switch has a broken lead, the module heats up slower because the module is encased in epoxy, the broken lead loses continuity and the ignition fails, then the thing cools down, continuity is restored and it starts firing again. Or certain vibrations cause poor continuity in the broken lead causing the intermittant running conditions. The bad one I had felt like the drive belt was tightening or something was dragging while cruising at constant speeds. Or it would backfire while riding at constant highway speeds. | ||
| Bookends |
Swampy, EZ, Gear...... You guys are killing me! I went ahead and placed an order with one of the site sponsors for the module. *shakes fist* BookendS | ||
| Swampy |
Well, when you get everything back together, and its running the way it is supposed to be, you are going to be so happy, it will all seem worth it.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Blake: how can you be everywhere, dont you sleep? An excellent point about the kickstand switch. Its fooled more than one. (connecting the 2 wires together eliminates the switch). "3) My background is Physics tells me that this phantom ignition module problem I have read so much about surely can't be the culprit. When a solid-state circuit fails, it's repeatable and consistant. If it were heat related, it should happen almost immediately. I just can't believe that my current problem is tied to this device!! Unfortunately, the collected knowledge and experience of this board points towards this bastard!! But how could a diode and transistor filled solid-state circuit just fail, but ONLY sometimes? And ONLY when the bike is under load? " See, it will drive you crazy!!!. Do eliminate the kickstand switch before you open the package of the ignition module and cant return it. The gas tank has a rollover valve (which I think had a recall for 2003) so just disconnecting the vent line wont do. Only pulling the gas cap will circumvent the valve and vent hose. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The ignition module takes about an hour to change if you know what your doing and not rushing. The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!! Note the position of the ignition module before you take it out, it'll make timing it a little easier. Static timing by the book is usually as accurate as dynamic timing with a light, but do check it with a light. If you dont use the clear plastic timing hole plug, oil will spray everywhere! (but it can be done) | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearheaderiko: Remember this: "All same type diodes and transisters are not created equal !!!" If the holes do not move or move fast enough it fails !!! IMHO a dopeing problem, but then you might say "i" was calling you a dope which "i" am not ... HEAT kills these components !!! That is why in cars the BRAIN BOX was put inside the car under the glove box or some other convenient place Does this explanation help ??? In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on May 20, 2007) (Message edited by buellistic on May 20, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellistic: I have no idea what your trying to explain or why. "If the holes do not move or move fast enough it fails !!!"??? Are you responding to another thread or someone elses post? And I know what heat does to electronic parts, so...? I'm not sure whose question you're trying to answer, I didnt ask one.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearheaderiko: Do not worry, "i" will recover and be AOK !!! In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on May 21, 2007) | ||
| Bookends |
Hey guys.... Parts will be here Wednesday or Thursday morning at the latest. I will take photos and write up a "how to" article for the benefit of future riders! I'll keep everyone posted! BookendS | ||
| Marineblast |
I just bought my first blast. It's an '04 and I have trouble starting it. I get a back fire from the carb. When it is running after I start it it will stall without me giving it a little throttle. When I do get it moving it runs great, until I have to stop. If I let it idle to low I will get a back fire from the carb on my right knee and then it will stall. I always have to give it more throttle. Any guesses to my problem? | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! Replace your intake boot! It could be a loose plug wire also - that is usually the 1st two that always come to mind, though if it sat for a bit a dirty carb would be suspect as well. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum Marineblast! I would check the easy things first just like Ezblast said, das boot! I had a carb pop off the boot with the stock air cleaner before so anything is possible. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
I hate the carb boot, even the fuel hose boot is givung me problems now, yo ez, I'm starting to have issues with my engine and tranny I think I fixed the off idle poping/backfiring and the 3-4000rpm marbles in the engine sound I get when I close the trottle where theres no aceleration or engine breaking (loose carb boot and exhaust flange) now the tranny is giving me issues. its missing shifts. I'll be getting on it from a stop and it'll miss the 1-2 shift and pop into neutral... that only happens when I'm at he rev limit tho... the other on is like 3-4 that's doing the whole neutral thing till I pull in the clutch and pop it out again. its like the gear isn't engaging. oh ya the pirelli's wear like crap.. I MIGHT get 1000 miles out of the rear this year.. | ||
| Bookends |
Hello again!! It's been a few weeks since I posted about my ignition module problems but I've been crazy-go-nutts busy. Anyway, the ignition module WAS the problem for sure! I replaced that bad boy and retimed the motor in the machine shop at work, staying late to make sure that I could enjoy freedom on two wheels! Thanks again to everyone that chimed in! I'll be getting some pics posted and a how-to article written shortly. I have all sorts of stuff on order (bars, rearsets, blinkers, ect) and I will surely have more questions! BookendS | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 another satisfied Badweb customer! | ||
| Swampy |
Good for all! Styxnpicks, 1st thing I would do is make sure your shift lever is adjusted very close to your toe. I think alot of missed shifts are because of the long shift lever requires a more purposeful longer shifting effort. I miss alot when I am shifting through the gears and just don't put the stroke into it and I miss. I would even try a Sportster shifter, its a bolt on affair and probably cheap. If that doesn't work try making all the adjustments, primary, clutch, then if all else fails adjust the shifter pawl. But I think if you get a shift lever from a Sportster, or shorten yours you will see a difference. But first thing I would do is move the shifter closer to your toe. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
you thats funny cause my shifter was just loose enuff to spin a tad if I put some ooomph into it, so I put it close to where I thought it should be and rode it for a day, ya way too high, every shift was horrible, I got it closer to the toe now but I havn't had a chance to get it on the road, of course I might have to now since I was blessed with a 3 inch gash in one of my trucks $300 tires | ||
| Styxnpicks |
went riding today, the toe peg is in the right place again but it still gave me problems from 2-3 and at one point I couldn't get it to downshift into 1st | ||
| Ezblast |
You need to go into your primary and sort stuff out - 2 gaskets, a seal, 2 o-rings, new e/c clip for the drum - lol - measure pins and make sure all are the same length - tap in accordingly, add new clip, do pawl adjustment, chamfer edges of stator wire protection plate, adj. clutch at primary and cable, add correct amount of fluid, adj. primary, and enjoy a bike that will feel better than new (note - you only have to loosen the left footpeg holder). GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 06, 2007) | ||
| Styxnpicks |
or I could just sell the thing, looks like I have a winter project | ||
| Ezblast |
It will take time, but its not hard - about 30 bucks in parts, and the result is very enjoyable. Surely not worth selling the bike over. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
When you get it done it will be so nice you will wonder why you didn't do it before. It is really not that hard to do. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
will it make it faster? this thing is dog slow, I knew I shoulda bought that lightning.. good news tho I scraped my shoe for the first time, the pegs next oh ya its also doing this thing when I start it, it'll turn over and right before it fires up and runs it'll just lock up starts on the second try no problem | ||
| Marineblast |
So I just went out and looked at the Carb Boot on my blast. It is totally cracked in half. I have the service manual for the blast. Is this the type of project a beginner can repair, or should I let buell change the part for $45. |
