| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
MAN...I've had too much medicinal wine for my cholesterol! | ||
| Jprovo |
Swampy, What part, the rubber isolator, or the front bracket? James | ||
| Swampy |
Rubber isolator | ||
| Jprovo |
Rubber Isolator ~$17. You'll need to support the motor while changing it out, the bolts are a bear to get to, and a little difficult to torque to spec, especially the big allen bolt. It takes a few hours to pull everything apart and put back together, but it's not that big a deal. James | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Saturday, June 4, 9pm and 90 miles from home. I feel "a strange vibration" and stop to check the motor mounts. Facing the front of the bike, the right bolt on the Do Not Remove bracket is missing. I figure it has vibrated off. I support the engine, remove the other bolt, locktite Red the threads and reef it down tight. I realize the other bolt is not missing, just sheared off in the head. I had to be at work Sunday AM, so I had no choice but to ride on the one bolt. Seemed smooth at certain rpms and made it home. Now, I need to use an EZ-Out to remove the broken one, and replace with proper grade bolt, and the question is: What was the torque setting I must have screwed way past on the motor mount bolt? It took a LOT of force to get them off when I replaced the rocker box gasket about 500-600 miles ago, so I put them on TIGHT... oops?? | ||
| Ezblast |
See the online manual for spec. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
Use red locktite. Install new bolts and washers to 60 ft-lbs, loosen each bolt one full turn. Tighten bolts again to 60 ft-lbs. FYI, you don't need to remove the front mount to change out the rocker box gaskets. James | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Thanks again to all who are involved with this board. It has been a huge lifesaver for me! | ||
| Jerzydevil |
James, Are you sure about 60 ft. lbs? My fsm says 20 ft. lbs. Is this a misprint? Or am I reading it wrong? I have it on page 3-24. Please let me know, because if it is a misprint, I've gotta snug it down more. | ||
| Ezblast |
You want page - 3-21 - James is correct - See on line manual. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Ed, what model year is that book for? Mine is for the 2000 and it says 20. Guess that is another error in the book. I'm glad someone asked about it. So now I know I gotta tighten up some. Thanks | ||
| Jprovo |
Yes - 60 Ft-lbs, and make sure you tighten then looen one turn and re-torque. James | ||
| Ezblast |
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/edzick94122/lst?.dir=/Blast+++Manual&.order= &.view=l&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/ Check the section I mentioned - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jerzydevil |
I did check it, I'm not trying to say you are wrong, I just don't get why that says one thing and mine says another. I figured maybe different years, had different settings. Maybe because of the heim joint or something? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sadly the repair manual has a lot of errors. The torque spec you read (as you thought) is probably for the extra 2000 heim joint. After awhile when looking at torque specs in the manual or for aftermarket parts, you'll learn what does and doesnt look right. I always double check any part that comes with torque specs against the manual torque specs, if they are different one of them may be wrong. Also, if you tighten a bolt with a torque wrench and it seems to go past what you feel is already tight, stop & re check the torque specs. There is a spot in the manual to list errors & send them in to Buell. Maybe we should start a link and list errors only, then forward to Buell? | ||
| Jerzydevil |
I didn't think of that Erik, looks like they could've mixed 'em up a bit. It says the heim joint should be 63-70 ft.lbs. Maybe the heim is 20, and they effed up. Good idea about the errors link too.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
20 ft.lbs sounds about right for the 2000 tie bar (heim joint) to motor mount bolt.All the other tie bar bolts are 30-33 ft.lbs and the rear isolator is 23-27 ft.lbs. Only the front motor mount (do not remove bracket) bolts are listed at the 63-70ft.lbs. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Hey, thanks alot guys, now I can make a note in my manual, and can get it right now. I can't wait to find the next error. But, you are right, someone should start a thread about the errors found in the manuals, so someone doesn't make a dangerous, or an expensive mistake. | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, I read the posts and decided to look at the wife's '01 and yep, bad front isolator/motor mount. Does anyone have the part number for this thing (sure saves time at the Harley stealership)?? | ||
| Swampy |
Hogluvr: The best way to get parts for the Buell, provided you don't have a Great Buell dealer very close to you, is to go back to the main page, click on the "Sponsers Section" and pick out a dealer (I use Stone MT, because they sent me a sling bag free) Click on their link, and email the parts request. The part number and cost will be posted on the link, by either Bunny or Deadman. They watch this board and respond to it regularly during business hours. Or you can call them. Saying that, I just replaced mine,I think the cost was $14 or so dollars plus shipping(Off sets cost of driving to my nearest Buell dealer to pick parts up) Plus they give Badweb members 10% discount! Plus if they have the parts it only takes 3 days or so for them to arrive at you door. And if they don't, they will direct you to a dealer that has them. Beats the normal 10 day ordering time from most places! Good luck, welcome to the board! | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks for the info Swampy, Been lurking here on and off for a few years now, since I bought my S1 in '01. New to the thumper stuff, thanks for the welcome... | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Broke another motor mount. This time the one on the right side of the engine, facing the front of the bike. This one is much harder to get at. I had to remove the exhaust, the isolator mounts and heim joints and various other items that kept the motor from moving enough outboard to get a drill in there to make a hole in the broken off bolt to get a screw extractor in. I would suspect that it may have been weakend by being the only mount for at least 100 miles last summer. I will replace BOTH mounting bolts with NEW grade 8 bolts and new washers asap, since the Blessing of the Bikes is coming Next weekend, and this is the social highlight of my year. Y'all come! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My unsolicited 2 cents: I would recommend replacing the bolts exactly the way the manual suggests with the bolts that came with the bike (I dont know if they're grade 8). Just in case you thinking otherwise! | ||
| Jprovo |
Buellboy- Bummer, I hope you get it fixed Before the Blessing of the Bikes. I think we went through this last time, but I too would recommend using Factory bolts, people who have used hardware store bolts have had mixed results. Factory Bolt: AA0718.1CXZ - 7/16-18 x 2-1/4 hex hd., zinc, w/Scotch Grip. BTW, while you're in there, take a look at all your other mounts to make sure that they are in good shape. I worn out engine link or isolator can put more stress on the motor mount. I'd hate to see you treating the symptom and not the cause. James (Message edited by jprovo on May 11, 2006) | ||
| Buellboy492 |
The first time I had to do this, I was at least 160 miles from the dealer. This time, I am at home- only 60 miles from dealer. But, I am going to still use the grade 8 bolts and washers for today. I just get treated like I have manure on my face at the local Harley dealer, so I hate going in there. Your advice IS greatly appreciated. Having the part number is half of the battle with the parts desk. And I really respect your opinions, because I see you back up what you say with real life experience, not just book learnin'. This board has been a lifesaver (or bike saver) I would not be having the great fun experience with my Blast without everybody here. There is no way I would put up with the problems this bike has produced. But instead, all the "problems" are just challenges and learning opportunities!!! So thanks, I appreciate your efforts on my behalf!!! | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Mounted factory engine mount bolts. Only cost 4.66 from Wild Boar Harley-Davidson Buell. The only reason I mention the dealer is that they are once again selling Buells. New general manager, 5 Buells on the showroom floor. Thanks for all who recommended factory bolts with my best intrest in mind. | ||
| Swampy |
Buellboy492, I was working in Grand Rapids today. The Big Kids Blast has a broken engine mounting bolt also, I just discovered it last night. Does Wild Boar have those bolts in stock? I heard it snowed during the Blessing this year | ||
| Berkshire |
RE: Bolt torque errors in manual. If you suspect the listed torque is wrong, you can go to this page to double-check it. http://www.sizes.com/tools/bolts_SAEtork.htm There are other pages like this one out there - just search for "bolt grade torque". FWIW, lubrication makes a big difference. I have heard of people breaking 7/16" V8 cylinder head bolts before they reached the torque spec because they used synthetic motor oil to lube the threads, instead of 30W dinosaur oil or moly assy lube or whatever the torque spec called for. Apparently the synth lube is so slippery that you can just keep on tightening it without resistance. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
You have to put oil on the bolts? I had no idea. There is a yellow, waxy substance on the factory bolts. I assumed it was a kind of lube/threadlocker. I sure am learing a lot. With the grade 8 hardware store bolts, I used locktite red. This bike has been a really great way to learn some mechanical skills. The bolts are not in stock. It did not snow this year. It has in the past. Friday night was quite cold, I believe it dropped into the low 40's after 10pm. Then most of Sat was nice, until about 8 pm when a big rainstorm that lasted until sunrise really put a damper on the rowdies! Sunday was clear and cool. |
