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Anthony0267
Posted on Friday, October 14, 2016 - 06:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a primmery adjustment how the manual says it winded up being in the same spot so guess it didnt need it but anyway after doing that went for a ride came to a light and was down shifting got into first and hit the lever again to make sure i was in first and it makes noise never did it before its kinda hard to explain the noise but its not loud can barely hear over sound of motor but the noise is constant if i hold shift lever down i kno thats not much to go on but any help/ideas of what it could be. Thx
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2016 - 05:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No - too tight - back out 20 more flats.
EZ
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Anthony0267
Posted on Friday, October 21, 2016 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thx that worked i think i need a new torque wrench it was way to tight
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Anthony0267
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2016 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haveing some problems when im riding around 4000 rpms while im driving i start to loose power almost like its misfiring every few seconds it olny happens above 4 grand tho could that be the primary still to tight or something else
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In every gear?
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not the primary. How do you know its 4000rpms?
Often it's the ignition module going bad. But it could more commonly be a loose plug wire/loose spark plug nipple as well as incorrect air filter, fuel starvation problem due to contaminated gas or clogged petcock filter.

Have you done anything (really, anything)) to your bike before this problem started?
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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a after market filter from spectre.yea it happens in every gear i have a rpm gauge hooked up it doesnt do it tho when im getting on it hard just when im cursing at 3800 to 4500 ball park is there a way to test the ignition module yes i have it seems like it started when i put new jardine on but cant be certain cuz almost at the same time i ajusted primary put new tube and main jet on also i send some pics of my set up
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well if you messed with the carb, then I'd put that back to stock first. Are you running the stock airbox? Some air filters will disrupt your running-I don't know what you're using.
But since this started happening after all this work, I'd say it's not the ignition module.

Did you tighten up the chain considerably?
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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes but then i loosen it back up i guess my cheap torque wrench is wrong cuz i did 24 inch pounds then back off 5 flats that was way to tight so i backed it off 7 more flats
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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nothing wrong with the torque wrench, factory manual specs are way too tight. (You'll be told that 12 flats is still too tight, but I would disagree. That's your call. Your adjustment followed with the "by ear" adjustment will get it right on).
That air cleaner looks nice! Nothing added to it right, like an Outerwears filter? (Also, what has happened in the past is that someone uses a non stock air cleaner that they unwitting cover up with their leg and it causes issues).
Nice PCV breather with drain valve.

It's the spark plug tip where the wire connects that can come loose. You'd know it if it was. Some tips are not removable.
I'd reverse what you did to the carb. 45 slow and 170 main should be sufficient to run with that exhaust (for now). That seems the most likely culprit.

This is the problem with doing everything at once. You don't know what caused the issue or what effects each mod had on running. I always caution against doing it all at once.
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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run the air cleaner just as is but i did get it soaked in gas when i took the carb off i didnt drain the bowl all the way and it dumped gas through it i let it dry out before running it i have a 46 p 175 main and needle shimed wit 2 #6 brass washers and a cv performance velocity tube and iridium race plug u think the jets r to big also i for got to mention i put a cbr600 shock on there i did that when i first got the bike tho u think maybe it could be the belt getting losser cuz it was already losse after i put it on but drove fine except one time i felt it skip when doing a burn out lol
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Anthony0267
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also air screw 2 2/3 turns out
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Washers should be #4's. #6's are most often too big and don't seat properly.
If the washers aren't the problem, remove the velocity tube or otherwise put the carb back to stock.
A 170 main is usually big enough especially if you've shimmed the needle. But a 175 is okay (it really all depends on your bike and where and how you ride)*

*it's common that everybody wants to go rich rich rich on the carb. All that really does is compensate for the lack of an accelerator pump. The vacuum operated carb already does that too. But what you do end up is losing power on consistent speeds, worse mpg and washing the hone off your cylinders. It's great for rapid acceleration, if that's all you do. But your engine should always be tuned for each bike. Recommendations get you in the ballpark. It's up to you to get closer. But for many "close" is good enough.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2016 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't think the belt is an issue. It would most likely skip, as you know, during a burnout. Under hard acceleration the rear suspension should be compressed to normal specs. If you've jacked up the rear, unladen burnouts are a bad idea!!
Belt abuse is belt abuse, it just won't last as long. Replace it when prudent and keep the used spare on hand (it does fit under the seat)!

Lots of air filters get soaked with gas, it's not an issue as it will get burned off quickly.
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Anthony0267
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2016 - 06:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok thx for the advice
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2016 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just hope I helped. Looks like you're doing pretty darned good on your own!
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2016 - 03:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That air filter is choking at those rpms.
EZ
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Anthony0267
Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2016 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive been riding around and now sometime it doesnt do it at all but most of time it does so it might be ignition module also the strap on my new jardine exhaust has rubber on it i guess so it dont scratch can but its starting o melt to can is that normal it dont seem like it i figured they give u a strap to use it it should be able to take the heat but it not even the sticker is melting
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2016 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know anythjng about the Jardine strap!

Have you taken your carb back to stock?

Have you removed the air filter? It is VERY common for people to try a non stock air filter and crowd or cover it with their leg. Given the location (and EZs statement), you might have very little area on the filter left to breath. The symptoms are classic choke symptoms. They are also classic ignItion module symptoms. But I Do Not recommend changing the module unless you are absolutely sure it's the module. Too many other things can mimic a bad module. Sometimes a bad module gives very clear signs it's bad, too often they don't and too often people just replace the module and still have a problem.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2016 - 01:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur
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Anthony0267
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok i will try that first thx any recommendations on filter or v stack. Dont mean to keep bugging but now im getting oil spray on my head toomk tank off to change carb and i got oil sprayed on the head around pcv valve i think thats what it is will post pics and got a yellow/tan looking liquid in my catch can any ideas thx again for the help im new at this it my first bike

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Anthony0267
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I see your problem. Your blast is badly stretched right to left. No wonder it's leaking. ; )

The staining looks like it was too thin to be just oil. I've not had a blast, but on plenty of other carb'd bikes I have owned, a bad needle valve and seat can cause a slow gas leak that fills the crankcase with gasoline (mixed with the oil in there). When you try and turn the bike over, it, being noncompressible, goes everywhere. That breather valve is one of the places it would go, and it think it would leave stains like that.

And the leak won't happen every time. And won't happen if you remember to turn off the petcock when parking it.

For what that's worth...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2016 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PCV commonly leaks, that's very likely the problem.
Catch can fluid is normal. It's gas, oil and water.
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Anthony0267
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What do u think is better to use a velocity stack dans filter kit or put the stock box back on
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dans filter kit would be my choice.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2016 - 03:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Depends would be my opinion - really does depends on where you're going with the bike down the road. More mods, or KISS, etc.
EZ
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Anthony0267
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2016 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would like to get more power bike seems to be slower then when i started at completely stock but like u guys were saying that could be from not getting enough air flow
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