| Author | Message | ||
     Jmm |
I just bought a 03 blast. It only had 965 miles. It was not running. The guy kept spraying ether in the carb to start it up. I have done new tires, oil, intake boot, and bags. When I first got it running it smoked something fierce. Thick black smoke. Ever since it only get about 30 mpg. I have cleaned the carb. When you go full throttle it floods the carb and becomes very hesitant and jerky. The bike is bone stock except for the k&n filter. The gas cap is spun, but I did some mods to it to hold for the time being. I saw on here someone made a kit for that. Which I an interested in getting if still offered. However even after stopping the evap and cleaning the carb it still only get about 30 mpg. Please help, and thanks in advance. | ||
| Jmm |
Forgot. Also new NGK plug and wire. | ||
| Jmm |
Tank had stabilizer in it. Drained and refilled. Petcock removed and cleaned. Stock jetting on carb. A/F screw has not been drilled for access. Idles great. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you "clean the carb" before or after it was getting 30mpg? | ||
| Jmm |
After I got it running and noticed it was getting such bad gas mileage. I did the intake boot and drained the gas first. The. I figured it needed a good riding to get the crud out of the system. First tank, first ride 60 miles had to go to the reserve. | ||
| Jmm |
I rode it for about 300 miles before I cleaned it and did the plug and wire. Now about 300 more miles and still no real difference. | ||
| Ezblast |
What gas are you using? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First: "bone stock except for the K&N filter" raises the red flag of why someone changed the air filter on a bike that only has less than 1000 miles on it. That indicates to me that other things were probably messed with. If it wasnt running it really makes me wonder what was done to the bike and if you're not looking for a normal problem, but something that was caused by ill repair or modification. Please remember: It has barely 1000 miles on it-it should NEED NOTHING!!! So please stop parts swapping, you'll just complicate diagnosis. Does it start now without starting fluid? You drained the oil? The Blast only takes 1.5 quarts to do an oil and filter. 1 3/4 quarts and it will be full, full! More than that and its overfilled. (unless you pulled the crankcase plug-but thats only for the very sure of their abilities, as you can crack the engine case easily). The oil part is important because the Blast is very easily and often overfilled which can cause problems and in the chance you have a bad oil pump drive gear, the engine will also be overfilled with oil. Oil overfill can also cause black smoke! You are running a minimum 20w-50 weight oil? IMPORTANT: If the Blast has sat for awhile, (a day or week or?) the frame will show bone dry of oil until the bike has run and wont show full until its fully warmed up-not just idled for 10 minutes in the driveway. Its got 1000 miles: has the primary chain been adjusted? If it still has the spacer on the adjuster bolt, it hasnt been. Thats maybe good because they are often loose from the factory. But if someone did the adjustment and its too tight, that will affect running and mpg. Top speed is a good indicator of this as the tighter the chain, the lower the top speed. Since you had the carb apart (*sigh*), are you sure it had stock jetting and not an aftermarket kit? The Blast runs at higher rpms than a twin. A common mistake for new riders to the Blast will lug the engine. Its a real nuisance to break them in because they dont run well at the low rpms (if following the owners manual). Max rpm is about 32 mph in first gear. The Blast has a rev limiter, so there isnt any chance of over revving. And it will run all day long at near (or past  ) redline without any resulting troubles (barring abuse)! A bad ignition module can cause your problem as can retarded timing. Any indication that the timing/points cover has been removed and timing possibly changed and timing might have to be checked. If you have experience with a timing light and Harleys, then its preferable to check it with a light. The "static timing" method also works, but you'll actually have to change the timing to set it that way. Both ways are very simple, but sadly easily botched. IMPORTANT: if you feel the need to change the timing, mark the module plate with its original location. A sharp knife around the hold down screws or relative position to the cam cover works as does white touch up paint (or white out). Spark plug gap .038-.043 I'd check in that order: Oil, carb, ignition. Again, try to avoid deviating from stock because it probably ran fine and correct from the factory. Change that and you can really complicate things. If this seems remedial and condescending its because "we" have done online diagnosis so many times and need every detail and try to cover everything. Too many times someone has left out some important information and we've pulled our hair out trying to figure out the problem without ALL the information. Its also happened than someone has been too embarrassed to admit they did something that messed up their bike and thats information we REALLY needed!! | ||
| Jmm |
Ran premium to begin with. Now run regular. There was no noticeable difference either way. After oil chance no more smoking. Original plug electrode was burnt off. New plug gaped proper. Just bought the inch pound tourqe wrench today. Primary has not been adjusted still has spacer. I have gotten it to 77mph without a problem though. New 8 mm wire. This is my first bike ever. Used to work on cars. Never carbs thought. It starts right up and idles great, just when you go wide open on the throttle, about half way tached, it starts to sputter and jerk the bike like it does not want to go. It does not die ever. The cover beside the rear break has fallen off several times now. I do not know if any one has messed with it. The previous owner said all he did was adjust the idle screw and put a K&N filter in it. I did notice the gasket around the air box is cracked up. I have done the oil. I will look at the carb again. What specifically should I be looking for before I do that. Also should I adjust the primary first or what. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Primary can wait until you have it running properly Oil is at 1.5-2qts? Not any more? You'll need to replace that gasket. If its the air box(Venturi ring) to carb, it's a standard Harley CV carb gasket. It could cause a problem. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Your Blast has many of the signs of a bike that has been messed with and/or abused. 1000 miles is brand new! Carb:look for a pinched diaphragm (under the top cover). Check to see the needle is seated properly (again under the top cover), as well as the spring. check for proper float function. Also make sure the vacuum port is plugged (it may or may not have one, but it must be capped off if it does). Everything else is normal running, just when you push for full throttle? If the cover that keeps falling off is the little round disc (points/timing cover) and given everything else, I would check the timing. If its way off, that can cause issues. Unplug the TPS/Auto enrichener wiring at the carb.It should run fine unplugged, you'll just be stuck on full choke for a long time. What it will do is cancel out some running issues that may be caused by a faulty TPS or ignition module. Plug it back in after testing. You really dont want it running rich longer than you have too! It is possible to have a safety switch acting up. Fuel and electrical problems also mimic each other. Will it run up to 30mph in first gear without issue? Yes thats a lot of questioning. Just not sure if we're looking for a naturally occurring problem or one that was caused by someone. Running rich indicates that its not fuel starvation, but your symptoms can be caused by faulty ignition including timing, intermitent or poor spark, a module being shut down by a faulty safety switch or just going bad (bad ignition modules are notoriously hard to diagnose given the multitude of symptoms that can happen). I'd put the old plug wire back on, unless you got an exact OE replacement, just to be sure you didnt get a wire thats incompatible with the Blast ignition. Some of the things I've asked dont necessarily point to running rich (like the vacuum cap), but are easy to check and are common problems. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its not a California Blast is it? | ||
| Jmm |
It is not a California blast. I will try that this week with the carb stuff first. I have the service manual on the computer now. Thanks for the direction. I will post back later this week when I have tried that. | ||
| Ezblast |
Using regular is asking for trouble. Change das boot out - it's bad. That's the first thing when the boot is going bad - readjust the idle - sigh.. EZ |
