| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
What you did shouldnt cause the idle to race that high but..... Did you take the carb off? Have you tried adjusting the idle speed screw? Did you take the idle mixture screw out? Did you take the tank off (even partially)? : Make sure the throttle is closing all the way and the throttle cables arent hung up or pinched. After you get it sorted out, you'll want to do the needle shim. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome to Badweb! Concur with the 175 main jet! | ||
| Jschatz |
It would not idle before I rejetted the carb, it would stumble and die after the auto choke cut out. I did not take the carb all the way out. I took the airbox all the way out and then loosen the boot. I dont think I took the idle mixture screw out, it never fell out. I did not even loosen the tank. I checked the throttle cables and they are not binding. Where is the idle speed adjustment located, I did not see a thumb screw like what is on my ninja or katana? I will pick up a 175 jet this next week when my new boat comes in. I swear I read something either on here or ez's page that said a 180 main should be used with my exhaust. Thanks for the help. I am glad there is a community like this. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm thinking a close inspection of "das boot" (the boat LOL!) is in order. The symptoms fit. It didnt run right before or after you did the rejet, just differently. That tells me you already had a problem and didnt cause one. You'll have a 175 and a 180 jet so you can compare the two. results may vary. I'd shim the needle first. Then swap jets back and forth (if desired). I found that the 180 actually made more peak power, but engine acceleration actually lagged. This (my) engine set-up was little different than yours though. A 180 may indeed work better and it has been recommended, so your assumption there isnt wrong either. There's isnt a huge difference between the two either. | ||
| Jschatz |
That's why I was thinking replace the boot, my local dealership had to order one. I intend to shim the needle I just didn't have any on hand. I will remember to pick up a couple at tractor supply when I pick up the jet and boot since it is right next door. #4s or #6s I have read conflicting information. I will sand them down to be ~0.050 and check them with my dial calipers. This is a lot easier to work on then my katana or ninja. I also intend to pick up a k&n for once I shop around and find the best deal on one, may see if specter makes one that is the correct size. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
#4 washers (or if in doubt, get the smaller size of the two). .050" isnt critical, so dont bother sanding. If you get the really thin brass washers you may need more, the fat galvanized ones will take less. Use whats close, which is usually two. Jetting, idle screw mixture and shim recommendations are all just guidelines. They may be spot on for your bike or they may need some tweaking. Thats where obsessive tuning pays off. Most will be okay with "close enough" though. The recs. are almost always better than stock! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The idle speed adjustment screw is on the carb, on the plate where the throttle cables attach. There is a cut out on the gas tank to be able to adjust this screw easily. The cut out is only visible if you take the tank cover off  I cant remember if you can use a small screwdriver or not to get to it with the tank cover on. | ||
| Ezblast |
180 works better only in conjunction with custom intakes, or maxed air box modifications - for the regular air box mods and a Jardine - 175 should be fine. EZ | ||
| Torqupine |
Okay, so I just put my engine back together, got the bike running, but it doesn't want to idle. I've got the Jardine muffler, standard intake, but i intend to upgrade the intake. Jets are 45 and 175. I had the fuel screw out 2.5 turns, as I screwed it in the idle seemed to improve, but I bottomed out before it would idle on it's own. Then as i was riding, it backfired every time I would slow down or downshift. When I got home, all four screws were gone from the top of the carb. The lid was still there, and all the parts seem to be intact. I don't know if i just didn't put the screws in tight enough or if the backfiring popped it of, not real sure what actually happened, but the screws are gone. Any ideas what's gong on here? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like you didnt tighten the screws. Backfiring wont pop it off. | ||
| Torqupine |
Alright, cool. When i put the float bowl back on, i over tightened the screws, had to use a hack saw to change one from a Phillip’s to a flat just to get it out. I guess i was over cautious when I put the top screws in. | ||
| Torqupine |
now i just need 4 new screws...do you happen to know the size/pitch number for those? | ||
| Swampy |
Take one down to the hardware store, I believe it is metric, get allen head screws, I believe the sizes are posted somewhere around here. You can get needle nose vice grips on the screws to just get them to turn a little and get them moving without having to cut slots in them. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
They are the same* as the float bowl screws. A little longer is okay. If you get them in an allen head, you can feel a little more comfortable about putting some blue Loctite on them and screw them down without fear of losing them or stripping the heads off them. Get some washers too. *Technically they are not the same. The carb uses 3 shoulder bolts and 1 regular screw that that holds down the throttle cable mount and fits though a brass collar. However, replacement chrome top covers come with the screws you'll be buying as well as CV carb chrome bolt kits. So its no big deal to swap them out and I've seen stock CV carbs come with a variety of screws. FWIW: replacement screws never seem to fit as tight in the threads as the originals! | ||
| Bag91 |
My blast is running great. . . The only thing is I seem to get a dead spot at lower rpms and feel a jump in power at higher. Is this normal. It's not a super drastic jump in power but noticeable for sure. I have a 02, velocity stack with outerwears filter. 45/170 jetting needle shimmed with I think 3, #4 washers ( it's been awhile). Drilled stock exhaust. . . Think changing to 175 would help? | ||
| Ezblast |
Remove 1 washer - should be 2 washers, make sure primary is a tad loose - a few extra flats,make sure boot is good, if old replace. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First thing is remove the Outerwears filter and see how it runs. Unfortunately I think too many of the wrong filters have been sent out to Blast owners. Its no sense in going further unless you are sure its not the filter. If the power is good at the top end its probably not the main jet. First things first though, remove the Outerwears. Since you have a CA bike also check the vacuum port on the carb. It should be plugged and oftentimes the plug will crack over time. (this was the vacuum hose that went to the EPA/charcol canister). | ||
| Bag91 |
It's not the filter because I just put on outerwears filter a few days ago, before that I had a makeshift pro series intake. My bike is originally from pensyl. But will check the plug. . . | ||
| Bag91 |
Oh and I put in 2 #4 washers. Not three like I thought I did. . . And primary is right. . . | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Then the next thing is "Das Boot"! (as previously mentioned). Since there isnt much to stop you (no airbox), pull the boot off and check it. EZ wishes he had a dime for every time he said it was the boot and they said it was still good, only to find out after they took it off it was bad (they just couldnt see the crack). Anyway, thats next on the list. I am assuming it ran the same before and after you put the Outerwears filter on? It ran poorly with the "makeshift" set up on? It may now be running lean (or different) if it just started after the Outerwears 'filter' was put on. and I wish I had a dime for every time someone swore it wasnt the Outerwears filter and it was!!! Please just pull it off and see what happens. | ||
| Ezblast |
It would then be the wrong filter, not using the recommended part number in my profile - lol - but I'd be much richer than you with - Das Boot! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Much richer!!! | ||
| Torqupine |
Another question, it's running now, but won't idle. When I let off the throttle it back fires two to three times. It used to start on the third or fourth revolution, now i have to crank it for a long time before it starts. Yesterday i was messing with the idle set screw with the filter off. I thought i had it idling, then after a few seconds it slowed, spit about three times through the carb, then died. Then exhaust started rolling slowly out of the carb. Should I be looking at the carb, or is it more likely that I screwed up the timing when i was putting the engine back together? | ||
| Swampy |
Sounds like a boot! just change it! | ||
| Prichmon |
Anyone have a recommendation for a new needle? I sanded mine when I was modding. and it seems to rich. NOKK is obsolete. Any "typically" in stock parts you guys suggest? 883/1200, 1340/88/96??? Thanks Rich | ||
| Ezblast |
27672-02 - is the stock number. EZ | ||
| Prichmon |
anyone have a stocker or NOKK??? Rich | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
27637-00Y Whats wrong with this number? Sorry, but all my info (and needles) are at home, otherwise I'd be more helpful. The necessary needle or a suitable substitute shouldnt be hard to come by. There's quite a few you can swap the stock one with and it wont make much, if any, difference in running(that you'd notice). | ||
| Buellistic |
It is a good part number and shows to be the OEM needle in my 2000 BLAST Parts BOOK ... Iam Noone' | ||
| Torqupine |
I guess I owe someone a dime, it was the boot. ~ Actually, the boot was fine, I just hadn't tightened it back down after adjusting the position of the carb to install the air box. Fixed that and it ran great...almost. I went on a 15 mile ride with no problems at all. I decided to try riding it to work (about 65 miles). After about 10 miles, it started missing. Once or twice at first, but it got progressively worse, then died. I tried to roll start it as i was still coasting at about 50, but that didn't work. I pulled over, turned off the ignition and examined the bike. I saw nothing amiss. I attempted to start it and it started right up as if nothing was wrong. I was able to ride all the way back home with no other problems, but i don't trust it to get me all the way to work and back. Any suggestions? |
