| Author | Message | ||
     Bitbear |
Gear... Thanks, got it! I just now tested the tach; it fires right up, backlighted, indicator showing what appears to be correct RPMs. One last thing, now: What did you do to secure the speedo and tach into the new dash? Both push in with a friction grip as I push them through the rubber dash-hole gaskets that came with the dash (the stock rubber mount/gasket that was on the tach doesn't seem necessary). I'm thinking that I can secure them using silicone sealant to hold everything in place. How did you secure the instruments in the dash? | ||
| Ezblast |
As you suggested. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My aluminum dash came with a bracket to hold the speedo in-didnt use it! Speedo is held in by the old dash panel carefully modified with a Dremel so its rainproof and looks factory. The Tach is held place (besides the friction fit) with a piece of vacuum hose wrapped around it, tight against the dash, using a zip tie through the center of the hose to hold it on. Position the gap in the hose with zip tie towards the center of the bike and you'll never see it. The open hole in the back of the tach is capped off with a cable tv fitting cap. | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey Erik - how about a picture of your setup - please. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
As soon as the camera comes back I'll post pictures of the dash set up along with steering stabilizer! | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci' | ||
| Bitbear |
Gearhead... What EZ said! Thanks. Everything is now set for final fitting. I'll take a look at the stock dash - and get out my Dremmel - to see if I can figure out what you mean, but photos would be most helpful! My billet dash didn't come with anything but the dash plate. But the worst is over; tach working great. Check earlier messages for the tach I bought -- and the link. Everyone's wiring tips helped immensely. When finalized, I'll post photos. | ||
| Bitbear |
Okay, the Nova MMB tach is installed, working -- and looking -- great. Thanks to all for your advice!  | ||
| Bitbear |
...one more pic:  | ||
| Ezblast |
How about a link to where you got the gauge please - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
That really turned out nice! | ||
| Bitbear |
I ordered it from J&P Cycles (http://www.jpcycles.com). It's not on the same page to which I posted link about two weeks ago. Look or ask for the "Micro Mini Instruments" 48mm (1 7/8") 1-8000 tach for single-fire ignitions, white face. I paid $129.99. See my postings in the last archive. I'll try to find my invoice and post any other product numbers or details... | ||
| Dustyjacket |
very nice | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thats the best pic I could get. As you can see the stock dash is completely trimmed off leaving only the speedo enclosure with rubber fitting ring. The tach is held in by vacuum tubing with a zip tie through the center. The rubber bumper above the tach is to keep the race fairing from vibrating 'at speed'.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nova MMB tach looks good. Let us know if the needle bounces at high rpm. | ||
| Bitbear |
Erik, et. al... What I ended up doing was a little different. My speedo held in place with a snug but not tight friction fit, good but not enough... So, following your lead, I took the stock plastic dash and simply Dremmeled the the bottom off (the portion below the opening where the mounting holes are), sanding, etc. to make it look nice. Then I simply screwed the entire remaining portion of the dash to the speedo -- using the original holes in the back of the dash housing. Tightening the screws pulls the speedo back against the rubber fitting ring that came with the billet dash, securing it tightly. Very simple, very effective -- but you must get two longer screws to replace the original screws holding the speedo housing to the speedo; one needs 1-inch screws because the back of the plastic housing is about 1/4 inch away from the back of the speedo because the front of the housing is behind the new billet dash instead of up against the speedo bezel...make sense? What's good about this is it doesn't require the careful cutting away of the front of the stock dash and it's so tight I can't imagine it needing anything else to hold it in place. Both methods are good and I think we've got a pretty easy-to-do process now for anyone wanting to install a tach. I just wish we could find a more dependable supply of the aluminum dashes. Already a friend of mine with a P3 wants one, but I haven't seen another on Ebay yet and the seller is unresponsive when asked if more are going to be available. So far, there is virtually no needle bouncing and I can report that even though the face diameter of the tach is about as small as they get, it is perfectly easy to read at a glance. | ||
| Jmynes |
I can report that the Dakota Digital tach has no needle bouncing whatsoever. | ||
| Ezblast |
How about a picture of it on the bike please! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bitbear |
...I'd like to see it too, Jim. By the way, I'll bet your needle doesn't move at all!  | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL | ||
| Jmynes |
I'll get a picture soon, but I have to say I like the looks of the white faced sweep needles on here better. My tach doesn't match the speedo AT ALL!! But, absolutely, positively ZERO needle bounce. | ||
| Bitbear |
Actually, Jim has a point, er, uh, TWO good points. I put a (Stewart-Warner) digital tach on my tricked-out, hot-rod Vespa scooter and it is rock solid and easy to read -- much easier to read than I thought it would be; it is a very effective tool (and in their way, they look very cool). But it's also true that analogs are inherently easier to read -- you can get a sense of where you're at with just a glance -- and esthetically, when sitting next to the stock speedo, they are, perhaps, a bit more pleasing to the eye. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hot rod Vepsa? I'd like to see a picture of that! It sounds like we did the same thing with the dash cutting. I didnt have longer bolts (and no time to get them) which is why I spent the extra time cutting. The Westach is a friction fit also, but I wanted the added insurance it wouldn't slide out from vibration and rain. | ||
| Bitbear |
Roger that, Geatrhead... Understood. If it won't freak anyone out, I'll post a photo of the scoot, with the Stewart-Warner tach. It's a thumper too, I suppose... | ||
| Jmynes |
I don't know......I might get a little freaked out. | ||
| Jmynes |
Yep, Bitbear is right. Analog is easier to glance at and get a warm fuzzy. And the white face is easier on the eye. I like having the tach, but it's a three digit readout (multiply by ten for RPM) and when I look at it I have to devote a few brain cells to interpreting the number, then and only then do I get a warm fuzzy. Hitting the rev limiter is fairly entertaining, too. | ||
| Bitbear |
Uh, by the way. I've seen two different figures for the limited red line. I thought someone on the board here said it was limited at 7500 but my owners manual suggested the limit is at 6500 RPM. What's the TRUTH?  Also, do I understand correctly that a Screaming Eagle ignition module eliminates the limit? Is it expensive? Is it worth doing? Or, for the sake of engine durability is it best to leave well enough alone? | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO the stock "IGN" will only REV to 6500 RPM PLUS/MINUS ... With the PRODUCT IMPROVED "IGN" 7500 RPM PLUS/MINUS ... If you want the bottom end to last do not REV past 6000 RPM and use SYN3 OIL ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Jprovo |
THe SI ignition has a programmable ignition Rev-Limit. It is worth it if you build a motor that can take advantage of it amd not blow up. Stock rev-limit is 6500, I would not set a rev-limit much above that (like 6800) for a stock head and cam setup. Bottom ends tend to go BOOM quickly when they are over-reved. Most people think that 7500-8000 RPM is relatively safe for a built-up motor. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"If you want the bottom end to last do not REV past 6000 RPM" I think its too late for most of us then! Besides that doesnt sound like much fun. Get your redline up to 7500rpm and the Blast is really a blast to ride! Psst...you'd better tell James quick, he's got 42,000+ on his and I know he hits the rev limiter!!!} |
