| Author | Message | ||
     Flying_lemon |
I have an '03 P3. It has only 6k miles on it and has an issue when I begin off the line at a stop light, it sputters and acts as if it is missing spark timing. This only happens when i give the throttle an average twist. If I twist slowly, this doesn't seem to be an issue, at least not as much of one. I have taken it to the Space Coast Harley dealership and to Southern V-twin specialists, neither group of wrenches knew what the issue was. The dealership tried to blame the popping on the hi-flow parts installed, but the popping didn't start until two weeks after the parts were installed. The popping doesn't seem to take place during the first few minutes of the ride, but after it warms up, it certainly is present. The idle is also higher at warm operating temps. There is also a slight ticking now and then, very inconsistent. }I am very confused about the whole thing. Does anyone have any suggestions??? Please help!!!!}} | ||
| Naustin |
If the hi-flow parts include the pro-series intake, the rubber boot attaching the carb to in intake is probably cracked. The 'ticking' could be lots of things. You'll have to describe where it is coming from better than that. I'll bet your main problem is a bad boot on that pro-series intake. PS, the boot costs like $10. You could also substitute hydraulic hose in the proper diameter, which might hold up better, or go with the stock part and brace the carb. Read all about it in the archives. EDIT- I see you've had a cracked intake boot before. You might have overtightened the clamps when you replaced it, or bumped it with your knee. Anyway, check that first - pretty much whenever the bike does ANYTHING weird. LOL You might not be able to see the crack at first. Take it completely off and look at in in a good light from inside. (Message edited by naustin on December 14, 2005) | ||
| Jprovo |
Is the popping an intake pop or an exhaust pop? An intake pop is USUALLY caused by an air intake leak. Check out the intake system well, especially the boot. If it's an Exhaust pop, check the exhaust pipe header nuts, and look the pipe over real well for cracks, air leaks, loose hardware... I've had the head nuts come loose on me twice. Both we due to a loose rear muffler mount that allowed the system to move. James | ||
| Ezblast |
The other noise could well be the primary needing adjusting. Replace the boot. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Flying_lemon |
The boot is new, thanks! The problem is still there. It was much worse when the boot wasn't new. I will check the exhaust bolts as recommended. Oil change is fairly fresh. I am unsure if it is even a pop or if it is a skip in the spark timing, if that's possible. What are people using for the brace for the carb? Any and all info is welcome! Thanks y'all! John | ||
| Naustin |
Just because the boot is new, doesn't mean it isn't damaged or cracked. Overtightening has been known to result in a failure within a few hundred miles of replacing the boot... If the exhaust header checks out OK, double check the boot again. I run the stock intake box - not because of the boot failures associated with the pro-series as much as that I just don't like the "hole" in the bike with the pro-series and the intake box removed.  I know some people use carburetor springs to brace the carb. I've also seen aluminum brackets braced to the transmission case, and steel straps rigged up one way or the other. Check out the archives. naustin | ||
| Ezblast |
Also a thought - the o-ring on the manifold? - the carb vacuum plug, loose plug wire or plug, - hmm - after eliminating everything else, and you still have a ways to go - i'd also check the acc. pump diaphram for tears, and clean up your jets - then let us know! GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on December 14, 2005) | ||
| Sarodude |
I wonder if what's being talked about isn't the loud knocks that the owner's manual refers to as ignition being pulled back as opposed to spark knock / ping.... I don't recall the exact phrasing - but the solution could simply involve altering riding style to keep the engine out of the lug range. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - I read that also - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It definitely isnt your Hi-Flow mods. Dealer full-O-crap! It might be just a case of the "we dont want to work on a Blast" syndrome. Happens all the time. I've seen them panic at the mere mention of the P3. Seriously: Do the WD40 or carb cleaner leak test on the intake boot. Check the gas tank vent line for crimps (there was also a tank vent rollover valve recall) or blockage. The top of the spark plug is notorious for coming loose.Check the gap while your at it. (cold). Rubber plug on carb (goes to the charcoal canister on CA vehicles). Check the timing advance. May or may not be working properly. Might be bad ignition module (I'm doubtful though). The ticking could be anything from valves to footpegs to primary or knock & ping. There is no accelerator pump on the Blast. EZ apparently slipped that in by mistake. I'm not currently using a carb brace. 2000 street miles, 150+ race miles=still okay! I think the springs would be best though, if I did. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How many turns out is your idle screw (air/fuel mixture not idle speed)? Also, If you have the old coil wire-switch back and see if there is a difference. We are of course assuming you're not 'lugging' the engine. The Blast also doesnt react well to wacking the throttle wide open at low rpms, since it has no accelorater pump. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on December 14, 2005) (Message edited by gearheaderiko on December 14, 2005) | ||
| Bobbyhead |
I think EZ meant to say the CV diaphragm, but he wrote acc.pump by mistake ? | ||
| Swampy |
Ignition Module! LOL? | ||
| Ezblast |
Bobbyhead - you are correct! - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Light_keeper |
When I first got mine and it was totaly stock, I had a ticking / knock that I thought was Preignition. I messed with the fuel and added octane boost which solved some of it maybe. The following winter I took the top end of the engine appart. the inside was relatively clean at least not the crud I had expected to see. I put it back together with the new metal gaskets (the reason to take it appart in the first place). Added the pro exaust and rejet the carb. Changed the pvc vent to a filter vs the carb. When I got it back on the road in the spring it still knocked / ticked but less. I messed with the timing and it got even better. I did find however that the more agressive my riding was the less the ticking. Now it rarely is an issue. No lugging helps the most. RPMs up and correct gear work wonders. The point is I guess, what I thought lugging was and what it really was were two different things. This bike works very well ridden hard. Not abusive but hard within reason. Also the carb boot is real easy to cut if it has been removed and put back on. It also must be seated correctly. At one point after mine had been removed inspected and put back, I did not seat it all the way flush to the stopps. It worked it self loose and was letting air in. looking at it did not show anything. After disassembling the whole mess the carb fell out of the boot. Lesson learned, make sure the boot is seated all the way in. there was a secound lesson as well. and that was when tighting the clamps make sure they are in the proper place and dont over tightn as they will split just like cheese.  |
